Looks good. You going to run ram assist?
Builds Project Beat the Baby- 76 FJ40 -5.3, 4l60, Atlas, Dynatrac 60 etc (1 Viewer)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Finished plumbing the steering, just waiting on a pitman arm:
Started my 3 link, designed at full bump, should have 18-20" wheel travel, 8 in jounce, 12 in rebound. Links are burned in final, working on the panhard now.
Started my 3 link, designed at full bump, should have 18-20" wheel travel, 8 in jounce, 12 in rebound. Links are burned in final, working on the panhard now.
like it, a lot.
Nice! Looking good. What radiator is that you are using?
Very impressive.
- Thread starter
- #27
Well my daughter came early on 5/12/17 so the project took a break for a bit but I've made some good progress since.
3 link is close and burned in final. Working now on finishing my coilover install, they're 16" king 2.0. Going to run 100 and 200 lb springs to start. Need to build a cross over from tower/tower but am going to see how my upper radiator hose and air intake route then play with that. I did manage to keep the hoops under the hood line so no cutting needed. My sprung mass as it sits today is only 900 lbs on the whole front end but I'm assuming it'll be around 1500 lbs once the truck is done. I'll have 6" jounce and 10" droop with a 25" ground to frame ride height. Still trying to get it lower but we'll see.
Got my shifter installed, it's a Lokar, honestly I'm incredibly disappointed with how hard it is to find gears. Still haven't fired the motor so maybe it's easier when running.
Exhaust is done, fully tig welded stainless with v-band clamps. I'll post some better pics of it later.
Still feels overwhelming how much work is left both financially and from a time investment, wish i had more than 1-2 hour windows a couple times a week to work on it.
3 link is close and burned in final. Working now on finishing my coilover install, they're 16" king 2.0. Going to run 100 and 200 lb springs to start. Need to build a cross over from tower/tower but am going to see how my upper radiator hose and air intake route then play with that. I did manage to keep the hoops under the hood line so no cutting needed. My sprung mass as it sits today is only 900 lbs on the whole front end but I'm assuming it'll be around 1500 lbs once the truck is done. I'll have 6" jounce and 10" droop with a 25" ground to frame ride height. Still trying to get it lower but we'll see.
Got my shifter installed, it's a Lokar, honestly I'm incredibly disappointed with how hard it is to find gears. Still haven't fired the motor so maybe it's easier when running.
Exhaust is done, fully tig welded stainless with v-band clamps. I'll post some better pics of it later.
Still feels overwhelming how much work is left both financially and from a time investment, wish i had more than 1-2 hour windows a couple times a week to work on it.
- Thread starter
- #28
Nice! Which Champion radiator did you get, in that it fits in original mount? And does it have the steam port?
I'm also wondering what you'll do for the Atlas X member? Roark?
I'm also not clear on why you moved the engine so far to drivers side? Most of what I've read you'd want to minimize how far to DS you go to allow more room for steering?
I'm also wondering what you'll do for the Atlas X member? Roark?
I'm also not clear on why you moved the engine so far to drivers side? Most of what I've read you'd want to minimize how far to DS you go to allow more room for steering?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #30
I did the steam port mod to my water pump housing so I didn't need it for the radiator. It's the 3 row champion and it was a bolt in however it crashes into the hood (rad cap) by 1/2" so I had to redrill the aluminum sides and bend the stock frame to slide it down further into it. The atlas x-member I made but the mount that goes to the adapter 6 bolt ring is advance adapters.
On the engine placement, the dynatrac diff is too far towards the driver side although it's passenger side drop and the 4l60e trans pan is big. It's shoved so far to the DS purely for driveshaft clearance. Even where it is I'm going to have to run a custom 2 piece front driveline with carrier bearing. Looking back i should have re-tubed the axle and saved a lot of headache.
On the engine placement, the dynatrac diff is too far towards the driver side although it's passenger side drop and the 4l60e trans pan is big. It's shoved so far to the DS purely for driveshaft clearance. Even where it is I'm going to have to run a custom 2 piece front driveline with carrier bearing. Looking back i should have re-tubed the axle and saved a lot of headache.
YotaJosh
SILVER Star
What brand of headers are those? I like the vband conversion on them.
I had the same issue with the champion radiator. I had some correspondence with them about it, but they (champion) were adamant that there was no issue with the radiator. I ended up lowering the radiator mounts an inch.
- Thread starter
- #33
Yeah I bent my mount out a bit at the bottom then re-drilled an inch down as well. Good to know I'm not the only one.
They're Hedman's. The crappy 3 bolt flanges were lopped off and converted to v-band with the rest of the exhaust although the rest is all stainless.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #35
Making some slow progress:
-Frame is painted, used brush on quart cans of rustoleum hammered black, came out b*tchin.
-Fuel system fully plumbed, waiting on body install to hook up my RCI 2161a fuel tank.
-Trans cooler plumbed, filter and fluid changed.
-Radiator inlet and fill swapped side to side, there was no way around this given my mechanical fan and hood proximity eliminating hose routing flexibility.
-Axles final assembled and painted
-Proper coilover springs in
-Finished steering
-Plated back of frame
Still have a LOT to do. Coilover towers will be cross braced, waiting on body/hood install to check clearances.
Next item is sand blasting cab and painting. Once I have the cab installed I can start on the other fun stuff.
-Frame is painted, used brush on quart cans of rustoleum hammered black, came out b*tchin.
-Fuel system fully plumbed, waiting on body install to hook up my RCI 2161a fuel tank.
-Trans cooler plumbed, filter and fluid changed.
-Radiator inlet and fill swapped side to side, there was no way around this given my mechanical fan and hood proximity eliminating hose routing flexibility.
-Axles final assembled and painted
-Proper coilover springs in
-Finished steering
-Plated back of frame
Still have a LOT to do. Coilover towers will be cross braced, waiting on body/hood install to check clearances.
Next item is sand blasting cab and painting. Once I have the cab installed I can start on the other fun stuff.
Whats, your opinion on those 2 piece wheel spacers? obviously favorable since your running them, but have you run them on anything before? any issues? i couldnt find too much info a while back when i wanted to use some new tundra wheels
- Thread starter
- #37
I had these custom made by some guys in Reno who do 2 piece wheel adapters. The problem I ran into is the hub on the d60 is too big to fit a 5x5.5 pattern (to match my 9" rear) and the axle flanges on the 9" are too small to redrill to run an 8x170mm to match my super duty. So unfortunately I had to do 2 piece adapters up front but the machining on them and attention to detail is legit...but they were $400.
- Thread starter
- #39
She's looking a bit better!
Sand blasted and shot epoxy primer followed by hot rod flatz, OD green single stage urethane.
Sand blasted and shot epoxy primer followed by hot rod flatz, OD green single stage urethane.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #40
