Build Project Beat the Baby- 76 FJ40 -5.3, 4l60, Atlas, Dynatrac 60 etc

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Joined
Dec 30, 2006
Threads
34
Messages
122
Location
Reno Tahoe
I've been out of the wheeling game for 5 years and looking for a reason to get back into it. A co-worker sold me a 76 FJ40 for a deal, so this was the perfect excuse. With my second child on the way in late may, the race is on to get as much done before as possible.
The build was supposed to be mild but I keep finding "good deals" on used parts and it is now going to be much more fun.

Here's the beast on the day I brought it home:
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In preparation for the new power pack I made some frame plates for the front out of 3/16.
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Motor will be here in a week, plan is to get the powertrain in, then focus on my front 3-link.
 
what was the old motor/tranny/tcase?
 
It had the stock running gear- 2F inline 6, 4 spd and tcase.....heavy as a pig
 
You get rid of it already?
 
Yeah I sold the stock powertrain
 
I got suuuuuuuuuuper lucky....
 
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Threw the body back on for the first time since the back stretch was mocked up...it looks a lot longer lol. Hopefully the 40's will fill the front and make it look a little more proportionate. I'll comp cut the back and will probably be pulling a leaf out of the pack.
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Thanks to Bryan at BD Turnkey, I have a b*tchin 5.3 dyno tuned!
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Clearance is going to be a bit of a challenge to get the steering shaft past the header and the driveshaft past the transmission pan. I ended up tack mounting the engine .75" off center to the driver side. Motor mounts are 12" back from where the shock mount rear rivet used to be. The floor needs to be cut to get a flat belly but even without cutting it I'm only hanging down an inch. Once cut I'll have a 3 degree slope front to back on the motor. As of now it looks like the truck pan will clear the front axle just fine.
 
H3 Alpha Hummers (with the 5.3 LS) have a scalloped pan that allows more driveshaft clearance - in case you need a bit more.. they also have the tightest-to-motor exhaust manifolds out there.
 
Nice, I'll check that out! Surprisingly hard to find a pic of their manifolds installed but I can get one cheap.
 
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Clearance is going to be a bit of a challenge to get the steering shaft past the header and the driveshaft past the transmission pan. I ended up tack mounting the engine .75" off center to the driver side. Motor mounts are 12" back from where the shock mount rear rivet used to be. The floor needs to be cut to get a flat belly but even without cutting it I'm only hanging down an inch. Once cut I'll have a 3 degree slope front to back on the motor. As of now it looks like the truck pan will clear the front axle just fine.

I did the same thing on my 1966 FJ45 for the same reasons. Getting the steering shaft through there is not bad at all. Much easier and cheaper than a 2 piece driveshaft.
I am running a BD turnkey in this rig as well with a Fbody pan and windage tray.
 
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Took your advice, re did my motor mounts and offset it as much as possible to the driver side, about 2" and also angled so the t-case output is closer to the passenger frame rail. Still got the 5 deg down slope on the powertrain and a flat belly. Motor, trans and tcase are final welded.

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Finished the rear leaf hangers, set pinion angle and welded everything up.
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An old car. You will have to fix it a lot and it is very time consuming. I'm looking forward to seeing the car when you're done. My English is not good. Sorry for the inconvenience !
 
Took your advice, re did my motor mounts and offset it as much as possible to the driver side, about 2" and also angled so the t-case output is closer to the passenger frame rail. Still got the 5 deg down slope on the powertrain and a flat belly. Motor, trans and tcase are final welded.

IMG_20170326_200914660.jpg


17424645_10100268398884085_7567244407649952152_n.jpg

17523031_10100268398854145_1440472983938345365_n.jpg

17523560_10100268398844165_9071760412960342381_n.jpg


IMG_20170326_201151958_HDR.jpg

IMG_20170326_201233287.jpg

IMG_20170326_201350068.jpg



Finished the rear leaf hangers, set pinion angle and welded everything up.
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Nice job and clean looking.
 
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