Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (15 Viewers)

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The brake fluid has been disappearing from the rear reservoir of Dad's 40. Not leaking at the drum cylinders, so I pulled the master off and it is wet behind there. Does it make sense that the fluid would actually enter the booster? Seems I need to order a new master cylinder and booster.

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Replaced my hood latch. Was tired of having to use a key to get the hood to fully close. Also replaced both front calipers with Napa remans and OEM pads. Apparently Onur has been recommending the Napa remans lately. OEM calipers are $300 per side and these were $60.

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Now I just need to figure out how to stiffen up the pedal. It goes to the floor ATM. I only bled the fronts, will go back and bleed the rears and lspv.
 
Bleed them all. My best 80 luck has been with pulling the ABS fuse, RR/LR/LSPV/RF/LF/LSPV/repeat. I've heard that zip tying the LSPV rod up high while bleeding can help. My absolute best results always came when I just ran a long length of tube from the bleeder valve back into the reservoir - beats the hell out of wasting pints or quarts of fluid and having to deal with ensuring the cylinder doesn't run dry.

Want to borrow my Motive Power Bleeder? I have the special locking reservoir cap (fits 80's, at least). It has worked well in the past if you don't have a second person.
 
Thanks John. I have a Motive bleeder. A couple years ago I was changing out the rear hard brake line and accidentally let the master run dry. My brakes haven't been the same since. I think I might try the long line between the bleeder and the master. I did this on my 40 with good results.
 
I’ve never bleed brakes before but think I need to at some point. I can lock up the 33s fine but there is a lot of pedal travel. I get a little less travel after 1 pump. Master was replaced in the last 8 years and booster passes the tests in the FSM.

I think the rear brakes are adjust properly. I also need to get a tool to check the gap on the booster. There is also a pedal adjustment which I’d touch last. Toyota uses an lpsv brake pressure gauge but that seems unobtainable.

Cc @Von Hayek since he’s been working on his 62 brakes.

If you use the long hose you don’t need a second person?
 
I’m thinking that might be the case but wanted to exhaust everything else first.
 
My brakes haven't been the same since.


@iptman take the 80 out and get the ABS to do it's thing a few times, then rebleed. Apparently, air can get trapped in the actuator.
 
One thing to mention is that even if the booster passes the FSM testing, it is not necessarily functional. That point was stressed to me in the 60-series forum. Because my booster passed, it was the last thing I replaced but it was faulty.

What booster did you end up with? The 80 series one?
 
What booster did you end up with? The 80 series one?

 
Well I just did something collosaly stupid. I pulled the 80 in to the garage and was happy to see it fit with about 2 inches to spare with the new garage door. I put it on jack stands in order to bleed everything then went and had dinner. About an hour later I went back out to the garage and without thinking hit the garage door opener. 5 seconds later I hear the screeching and instantly knew what it was and hit the door opener to reverse. It's right down to the metal too. I'm so pissed right now I can barely see straight.

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Best I could do. We'll see how long it takes to start rusting through.

Also rebled RR, LR, LSPV, RF, LF. Then did the connect the bleeder to the master and pumped about a 100 times per front calipers. Saw lots of little bubbles hopefully from the master and abs contraption. The rebleed on the fronts pushed some big bubbles out. Also saw what looked like water droplets in the brake fluid flow through the tube. I bled that caliper until I didn't see that anymore. I'll put the tires on and take it for a test drive tomorrow.

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