Very nice! It looks like something from Javier Bardem's character used in No Country for Old Men too. Not that I'm suggesting other purposes. 
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I got Lights!!
Got rear parking lights, brake lights, and turn signals (but they don't blink, think my flasher is bad or not enought power draw on them without the front signals on). I'm going to hook up another light then swop the hazzerd flasher.
Got rear parking lights, brake lights, and turn signals (but they don't blink, think my flasher is bad or not enought power draw on them without the front signals on). I'm going to hook up another light then swop the hazzerd flasher.
- Thread starter
- #245
DAAAAAAAMN! Nice!
I got my new rear calipers on and 6 of 7 flex brake lines on. The 7th is in an impossible position and I have no idea how I'm going to get at it. I've never been more pissed working on my truck than I was trying to get these stupid flare nuts to thread in to the new brake lines. Here's hoping I didn't let air in to the master cylinder or I'm driving a 2wd Nissan pickup to Fall Crawl.
I drove a 2wd Nissan last year....
Guessin the driver side frame line next to the engine is your most aggravating connection..
Guessin the driver side frame line next to the engine is your most aggravating connection..
Correct. Got any tips? I haven't tried it yet since even if I get it off I don't know how I'll get it back on. I did order a full set of hard lines from @beno since they were so cheap. I'm hoping there's better access to remove the hard line and soft line together as one unit.
Good wrenches.
Remove the soft line, cap the hard line with a vacuum cap, slide the fitting up enough to file the flared portion a bit so it doesn't fight you going back in.
Its always aggravating when the fittings flare out a bit!
Remove the soft line, cap the hard line with a vacuum cap, slide the fitting up enough to file the flared portion a bit so it doesn't fight you going back in.
Its always aggravating when the fittings flare out a bit!
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2008
- Threads
- 140
- Messages
- 3,478
- Location
- Commonwealth of N.VA
- Website
- www.capitallandcruiserclub.org
Changing out soft brake lines on 4runner. Driver side line swelled at the hardline junction. Those clips are a PITA to access when the truck is on the street and still has on the tires.
Managed to break the driverside door hinge on the trooper while dragging logs around a buddies property. A random spring popped out, a spring not found in the other doors. Door no longer opens /closes as intended.
While under the 4runner today some huge gusts of wind funneled a ton of leaves to me at 50mph . That makes for an interesting experience.
Managed to break the driverside door hinge on the trooper while dragging logs around a buddies property. A random spring popped out, a spring not found in the other doors. Door no longer opens /closes as intended.
While under the 4runner today some huge gusts of wind funneled a ton of leaves to me at 50mph . That makes for an interesting experience.
I currently have the 62 at Forge Specialties where it is to have a 5.3 Vortec egine installed. I'm going to have it towed to my house after Vince has the driveline in, where I will then proceed to hook up all of the different systems. It has been a long road, and I doubt I am halfway down it.
I have some warped rotors on my FJ 60. The vibration has become worse. It's very noticable when breaking from 60 mph and above. Rather than try to turn them, I went for new ones. The new OEM rotors from Cruiser Dan arrived yesterday for a weekend project. Does any one have the 2 1/4" socket to remove the hub? Last time I used a brass drift to remove the nut, it did not work out well.
- Thread starter
- #254
I can bring a hub socket to the meeting tonight.
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2008
- Threads
- 140
- Messages
- 3,478
- Location
- Commonwealth of N.VA
- Website
- www.capitallandcruiserclub.org
got all the parts to make some brake lines for the 4runner and i'll likely start that tomorrow morning. I'm thinking of painting the new lines bright red.
The trooper started running like ass the other day on the way home after a quick stop. It ran like it was missing a cylinder firing. Checked the spark plugs today and found number 3 crushed a little bit...wtf? took the upper timing cover off and at least the cam sprocket is still bolted on, unlike once before when the bolt worked itself loose. I'm thinking the timing belt may have jumped a tooth, which i'll have to check tomorrow or later this weekend. As I recall the distributor rotor should point to #4 when at tdc, the cam sprocket timing mark should match the cover mark. I'll have to pull the valve cover too to see if there is anything obviously wrong there, as well to confirm that #4 is on compression.
ya hoo
***
Just realized spark plugs don't move like valves do, so timing is not a factor.
I'm guessing the bottom end is phucked or a valve is snapped off and rumblinrumbling in the cylinder. G'damnit.
The trooper started running like ass the other day on the way home after a quick stop. It ran like it was missing a cylinder firing. Checked the spark plugs today and found number 3 crushed a little bit...wtf? took the upper timing cover off and at least the cam sprocket is still bolted on, unlike once before when the bolt worked itself loose. I'm thinking the timing belt may have jumped a tooth, which i'll have to check tomorrow or later this weekend. As I recall the distributor rotor should point to #4 when at tdc, the cam sprocket timing mark should match the cover mark. I'll have to pull the valve cover too to see if there is anything obviously wrong there, as well to confirm that #4 is on compression.
ya hoo
***
Just realized spark plugs don't move like valves do, so timing is not a factor.
I'm guessing the bottom end is phucked or a valve is snapped off and rumblinrumbling in the cylinder. G'damnit.
Last edited:
This:
To this:
To this:
This:
To this:
Well this needs to make an appearance at a meeting so we can all check it out. Pretty sweet.
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2008
- Threads
- 140
- Messages
- 3,478
- Location
- Commonwealth of N.VA
- Website
- www.capitallandcruiserclub.org
Looking to borrow a borescope to see what debris is in the trooper engine combustion chamber on #3.
I'm thinking broken valve, seat, bearing, bolts.
I'm thinking broken valve, seat, bearing, bolts.
Timing isn't going to be a factor, like you said...spark plugs don't move. If there was a mechanical failure (bottom end bearing or rod, top end valve), I would think that you'd have heard it. Maybe not if it was a valve?
Hopefully you can scope in there are see the top of the piston, any scratches/scoring.
TJ is now 15 y/o, and wants the blue '88 Trooper LWB 2-door that I owned from '94 to '99 and sold to my BIL in Tulsa.
I'm going to be back into Troopers soon.
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2008
- Threads
- 140
- Messages
- 3,478
- Location
- Commonwealth of N.VA
- Website
- www.capitallandcruiserclub.org
There is a knock at idle with a new spark plug in #3. Knock is about twice a second at idle. No damage to new spark plug at idle. Auto lite v ngk, but they should be the same length.
I'd certainly like to fix the truck since you did such a good job building it up.
I was wondering how hard it would be to throw in a Toyota 22re 5sp, and transfercase. A decent way to get gears and parts a little bit more plentiful. I don't really need gobs of.power and simpler is better. Of course I could always rebuild the 2.6L, but if I'm going to have to pull the engine anyway...
I'd certainly like to fix the truck since you did such a good job building it up.
I was wondering how hard it would be to throw in a Toyota 22re 5sp, and transfercase. A decent way to get gears and parts a little bit more plentiful. I don't really need gobs of.power and simpler is better. Of course I could always rebuild the 2.6L, but if I'm going to have to pull the engine anyway...