Original interior is cleaning up nicely. Actually tempted to leave the old original Toyota mat out to avoid covering up the transmission tunnel! Forgot to ask - what is your go to converter?
Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Penetrol works better than rust converter in my experience, it eventually soaks into the metal without any residue (takes time though), does not make the steel black and I have not had discoloration issues on remaining paint.
Seconded to penetrol, it also smells much better than fluid film imo. I coated my air filter and valve cover. Next stop will be entire body.
Thanks for the tip! Already treated the front but will check it out next time I treat spots in the back
Well, did half the car today with clr. No one talks about how much work it is. Holy moly. Very happy with the results though, really astonishing.
After scotch bright, I noticed that it removed oxidation but there was more potential, so I switched to 0000 steel wool.
The start:
Which ended up like this - note that only the side and hood are done and that it is covered in water, having just been rinsed. I’m hoping the penetrol will make it pop like the water does.
After scotch bright, I noticed that it removed oxidation but there was more potential, so I switched to 0000 steel wool.
The start:
Which ended up like this - note that only the side and hood are done and that it is covered in water, having just been rinsed. I’m hoping the penetrol will make it pop like the water does.
Well, did half the car today with clr. No one talks about how much work it is. Holy moly. Very happy with the results though, really astonishing.
After scotch bright, I noticed that it removed oxidation but there was more potential, so I switched to 0000 steel wool. View attachment 3213149
The start:
Which ended up like this - note that only the side and hood are done and that it is covered in water, having just been rinsed. I’m hoping the penetrol will make it pop like the water does.
View attachment 3213150
View attachment 3213148
Looks great. Yeah it's a helluva forearm workout shinning these things up.
Quick question for everyone/follow up to previous post. I finished up the clr process, before I move onto penetrol or fluid film (currently leaning towards the penetrol route), should I do anything else to try and clean up the paint?
I washed it down, I think I need to wash it a few more times, as there is still residue. Should I be concerned with removing streaks or water marks before penetrol, or will that be nonexistant once applied? Sorry if this is a silly question..
I washed it down, I think I need to wash it a few more times, as there is still residue. Should I be concerned with removing streaks or water marks before penetrol, or will that be nonexistant once applied? Sorry if this is a silly question..
CondeCruiser
SILVER Star
I would compound and polish the paint instead of penetrol. You will get better results IMO.
Yeah that paint would clean up nice with a polish. Not super rusty/patina or anything, that is where the Penetrol really helps.
GA Architect
SILVER Star
Wow thanks for the feedback everyone, makes me excited to think I can get that pop! I’ll look into the griots stuff!
Easy $40k on BaT for that "original paint with war-torn history"
...just getting broken in!
