Preparing to remove roof rack - How to avoid spinning nutserts?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 27, 2010
Threads
130
Messages
744
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
Edit: Nevermind, the search function was my friend.
 
Last edited:
I never found a definitive discussion of how to avoid spinning nutserts as in "don't do this, do this..." kind of thread. I did, however, find a number of great threads that gave some good points and then talked about how to deal with the holes once they are there.

Looks like you are at the mercy of how well the nutserts are holding onto the roof sheetmetal. No real way to tell until you dive in.

These were helpful:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/542092-how-easy-factory-roof-rail-adhesive-removal.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/497246-something-add-oem-rack-removal.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/472071-als-liner-roof-rack-patch.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/486717-roof-rack-removal-gurus-advice-needed.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/291502-roof-rack-roof-ribs-removal.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/243427-factory-roof-rack.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/87105-roof-rack-removal-observations.html


Good luck!
 
Last edited:
PB BLASTER for days and a light impact or tap w/ hammer
 
Looks like you are at the mercy of how well the nutserts are holding onto the roof sheetmetal. No real way to tell until you dive in.

When are you gonna do it? Please tell us what you'll discover. Thanks.
 
I'm sitting here on the porch looking at it as we speak. Think I will tackle this tomorrow or.....maybe thursday........

I'll do a thread to document the insanity.
 
This was insanity, unbeknownst to me and compliments of the PO.



image-2264925177.jpg



image-200093740.jpg


Resulting in



image-3250967830.jpg


All the rest that hadn't been reinforced with drywall anchors, spun, and the only way I could remove was to apply pressure up on the rack itself.
image-2264925177.jpg
image-200093740.jpg
image-3250967830.jpg
 
Would it be possible, once the screws and nutserts are out, to feed a couple of small partially round pieces of steel down through the holes, pull them up against the bottom side of the roof (to close off the holes), then tack weld them in place??
 
In the LX, there was insulation to close in proximity to weld, for comfort, so I'd advise pulling headliner.

On mine, fed out a little wire, tacked to sheet metal, fished into hole then pulled up on wire, but I had gaping holes to contend with, on most.

What could be filled with small tacks was, but not many were.
 
There's been a couple of threads of people who burned their headliners, one who had a big fire. I'm not a welder but it looks like the holes could be drilled out a bit larger, then work in through the holes two partial round pieces of steel slightly larger than the hole with a section cut out; think of a round pie with one piece missing. Both of these overlapping patches could be held up in place by a thin steel rod tacked (sticking up) to each one separately near their centers. Then while holding both patches up in place you could tack weld them to the roof metal?? By using two overlapping round patches you should prevent sparks or slag from dropping down onto the headliner?? Once that's done either retap for new holes or use body puddy, sand it smooth and paint?? Does that sound feasible??
 
Removed my rack today.. two nutserts were not attached, both on the front one on each side. The other screws came right out but all had rust. I took it to a shop and got a quote for $1000 to patch and paint including the rear wing which is pretty bad too even though the rear hatch was painted 3 years ago. I also got a quote to line-x just the top for $600

I decided to just grind off the nutserts and rust as much as I felt safe and using bondo to fill the holes.. Once dried i fared it out with sand paper and prime it. Took about 4 hours total.. I will do the rear hatch tomorrow. Not sure how to finish it off though to match the color.. Might end up going back to the paint guy and seeing what he would charge to just do the paint.

Almost ready for the Gamiviti Expo!

IMG_20120910_185943.jpg
IMG_20120910_190045.jpg
IMG_20120910_204323.jpg
IMG_20120910_185943.jpg
IMG_20120910_190045.jpg
IMG_20120910_204323.jpg
 
Update, so Bondo alone will not last if you use it to fill a hole.. after using the car today I noticed on one of the bigger holes where I filled with bondo had blasted out.. I owe it to the very thing layer holding a large plug, when you close the door the air pressure probably cracked then pushed the plug out. ooops

So while doing the wing today I ground out the old bondo on the bad hole on the roof and patched it with fiberglass cloth, then bondo over that. that should give it some strength.. after finishing you will never know.. Gamiviti rack will be here Friday!
 
If the nutserts are spinning, will they fall inside the roof if the screws are cut or do they have a flange that keeps them from falling in? I don't want to drop them inside and have them rattling around and I sure don't want to pull my headliner to deal with it.
 
The roof-rack nutserts up front by the sunroof will drop on the sunroof if the glass is retracted. I put a thin cardboard "catch" under the nutserts on the retracted glass as I drilled the nutserts out. The cardboard caught all the pieces and then I pulled the catch out. Apparently the pieces will fall into the sunroof track if you do not do this.

IIRC, the nutsert remnants in the rear (roof, not hatch) will sit on the headliner and not rattle if you leave them.

I drilled out the heads of the screws of a couple nutserts that just spun with the original hardware.

Beno suggested using a hemostat to hold on to the thin side of the nutsert to keep it from spinning. Somebody else on MUD used a sharp pick to catch one of the ribs or edges of the nutsert to hold it. I tried a variety thin pliers and scrapers (under the lip) to hold the nutserts while I drilled. I also tried some new hardware to re-tighten the nutsert to the body (not much luck with that). One nutsert I just keep spinning with the drill till it came out while I tried to hold it with various tools (I hate to admit); it literally wore the sheet metal out and then came out. At least one nutsert pulled up enough from the sheet metal that I could cut it with a very thin cut-off wheel. I replaced all my wind deflector nutserts with the next size up (M6). I replaced many of my roof nutserts with the original size (M5). The nutserts under my rack ribs were in good shape.

The last pic below is some stainless hardware I tried out. The stainless half-donut-shaped washer has a rubber washer under it, as recommended by one of our legendary parts vendor gurus on here...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/597910-wind-deflector-woes.html
IMG_9937.jpg
IMG_9991.jpg
IMG_0024.jpg
 
Last edited:
The roof-rack nutserts up front by the sunroof will drop on the sunroof if the glass is retracted. I put a thin cardboard "catch" under the nutserts on the retracted glass as I drilled the nutserts out. The cardboard caught all the pieces and then I pulled the catch out. Apparently the pieces will fall into the sunroof track if you do not do this.

Great info, thanks! So do the nutserts fall in as soon as you drill the screw heads off, or do you have to drill the lip off the nutsert? I have one that spins freely in each corner, so I have to either drill or cut off the mounts. I'm not opposed to cutting the mounts up to get it off, it's going in the trash when I'm done. I just don't want a bunch of stuff in the headliner rattling.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom