Power Steering Pump and Hose Replacement - FAQ (2 Viewers)

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Great thread. I pulled my PS pump off our 97 lx450. We used a simple rebuild kit. Everything was good but I could not get it to seat unless I pulled the bottom stud. I would put it on the top and torq it a bit then install the bottom stud and tighten back down.

All is good but my rig sounds like I have a turbo now. I bled the system. But it sounds like a bad stereo from the 80’s. As the RPMs rise so does the whine noise.

I pulled the pump off and started the engine. For about 5 seconds. No whine.

Soooo either my gear is bad or something else. I didn’t replace the bearings but I followed the other thread on the rebuild.

Any thoughts?
 
Great thread. I pulled my PS pump off our 97 lx450. We used a simple rebuild kit. Everything was good but I could not get it to seat unless I pulled the bottom stud. I would put it on the top and torq it a bit then install the bottom stud and tighten back down.

All is good but my rig sounds like I have a turbo now. I bled the system. But it sounds like a bad stereo from the 80’s. As the RPMs rise so does the whine noise.

I pulled the pump off and started the engine. For about 5 seconds. No whine.

Soooo either my gear is bad or something else. I didn’t replace the bearings but I followed the other thread on the rebuild.

Any thoughts?


Did you torque the gear retaining nut down to spec? (54 ft. lbs)

No damage to the gear teeth removing or installing it?

Rotor vanes replaced correctly? (rounded portion outboard)

ALL seals in kit used and in proper locations?
 
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Since this popped back up, I figured I'd chime in, I replaced my pressure hose with the Rein hose, and I can confirm that at least the one I have is nicer than the OEM hose it replaced, and is actually made with japanese tubing. Its about 210.00 less than the OEM hose.
 
Since this popped back up, I figured I'd chime in, I replaced my pressure hose with the Rein hose, and I can confirm that at least the one I have is nicer than the OEM hose it replaced, and is actually made with japanese tubing. Its about 210.00 less than the OEM hose.
I used the same Rein hose a few months ago...really nice quality.
 
Did you torque the gear retaining nut down to spec? (54 ft. lbs)

No damage to the gear teeth removing or installing it?

Rotor vanes replaced correctly? (rounded portion outboard)

ALL seals in kit used and in proper locations?


Thanks. Yes everything seemed to spec. I didn’t torq the pump to 27ft Lb it was probably a bit tighter than that.

I also bled the system. With the Front tires off the ground. I used ATF with Dex not PS fluid.

All other noises were gone once I bled the system except this whine. I did watch quite a few videos of similar whines but those were all. Trans related where the system was starving for fluid. In my case the turning is easy both ways and no noise. So is my pump starving for fluid? I don’t think so.

The only thing I didn’t replace was the bearing and the c-clip holding it. I did brake clean it but I just don’t think this is a bearing thing.

FYI here is a pic of the internal oil pump gear. As o did start the rig twice without the pump on to confirm this is the pump making the noise.

If I could add video I would share a video of the sound.

160B7122-E1C1-45F4-9C09-77F22BE58952.jpeg
 
Thanks. Yes everything seemed to spec. I didn’t torq the pump to 27ft Lb it was probably a bit tighter than that.

I also bled the system. With the Front tires off the ground. I used ATF with Dex not PS fluid.

All other noises were gone once I bled the system except this whine. I did watch quite a few videos of similar whines but those were all. Trans related where the system was starving for fluid. In my case the turning is easy both ways and no noise. So is my pump starving for fluid? I don’t think so.

The only thing I didn’t replace was the bearing and the c-clip holding it. I did brake clean it but I just don’t think this is a bearing thing.

FYI here is a pic of the internal oil pump gear. As o did start the rig twice without the pump on to confirm this is the pump making the noise.

If I could add video I would share a video of the sound.

View attachment 2444223


The gear needs to be torqued to 54 ft. lbs (not 27 ft. lbs, if that wasn't a typo).

You said you had trouble 'seating' the pump upon re-installation....which suggests a misalignment of some sort.

The gear pattern on these pumps is famous for making noise IF the gear is damaged in any way or not fully seated on the tapered shaft....but usually manifests as a clicking noise, not a whine.

I replaced the bearing in mine....but only because I had a new one sitting there. The old one was perfectly serviceable and unless yours felt worn or sticky....I wouldn't think that would be the source of your noise.

You might try draining the system and running some Type F ATF fluid in it and see that will quiet it down.
 
The gear needs to be torqued to 54 ft. lbs (not 27 ft. lbs, if that wasn't a typo).

You said you had trouble 'seating' the pump upon re-installation....which suggests a misalignment of some sort.


Thanks it was a typo. The gear is at 54. It was the bolts holding the pump on that were a bit tighter than 27.

My reinstallation has required the bottom stud to come out. I suspect because the fit meant is so tight. I never had to force the bottom stud back through which is odd.

I ordered another unit and will have it tomorrow. I’m tempted to toss this one back on but I just don’t know what to do. Maybe I’ll see if I can get it to seat without removing the stud.
The gear pattern on these pumps is famous for making noise IF the gear is damaged in any way or not fully seated on the tapered shaft....but usually manifests as a clicking noise, not a whine.

I replaced the bearing in mine....but only because I had a new one sitting there. The old one was perfectly serviceable and unless yours felt worn or sticky....I wouldn't think that would be the source of your noise.

You might try draining the system and running some Type F ATF fluid in it and see that will quiet it down.
 
For anyone that comes across this. I fixed it. When reinstalling the high pressure hose caused just enough misalignment that made me remove the bottom stud. Ultimately I would get it back on but it was out of alignment by 1-2MM.

So tonight I reinstalled it without the high res sure hose. It literally just hopped in. I knew it was going to work so I worked frantically to get it back together and burped it and started. No noise.

Getting the high pressure back on was a chore but I think I got it. And to think I currently have not 1 but 2 power steering pumps coming my way. Sorry to the retailers that are about to get a return.
 
So how do I know if thats what I need to do

The Power Steering system will leak for quite a while without causing any issue or even drops on the garage floor.

By the time the drops start coming, the entire drivers side of the lower engine compartment could all be caked in grease with wet spots below. It's really hard to tell what the problem is.

Like for any leak, you need to clean the area so you can then see the source of the leak. I had a good guess that it was the pump before I hosed it down. It had the classic rear seal leak.

attachment.php


So I cleaned up the area and watched it for a few days

The below clean shot will help orient you to where the pump is below the alternator

attachment.php





So I called our local parts man and ordered a new Pump, O- ring, Gasket (metal bracket like) and a new High Pressure Hose and return line.

attachment.php


44320-60182 New Pump
90301-73004 O-Ring
44327-30030 Gasket
44411-60430 High Pressure Hose

The return line usually comes with the cooler, so I got the hose for another vehicle of similar length

44412-28160


Lots of people will rebuild the pump rather than buy a new one. Its much cheaper (about $200 cheaper).



I wanted to replace mine with a new one as this was my first time and wanted to one less thing to worry about. I will then rebuild this one following the write-up below and use it on my daughters 80.

Here is a step by step write-up on rebuilding the pump and the much more expensive (~$2K new) gear box My Gear box was fine so I left it alone.

From what I have read here the problem is typically the pump and/or hoses.
Hi Romer - First, thanks for going to all the trouble to put this together. I just finished repairing a leak in my power steering cooler and it looks like I've also got a classic rear seal leaking! My question for you this morning - when I plug in 44327-30030 it tells me that the part does not fit my vehicle. I plugged in my VIN on the parts site that I'm using. Why do you suppose I'm getting this message? Also, is that part necessary? Thank you for you time. I surely appreciate it.

Mike
 
Mike, I am sorry, I have no idea. You don't have the year of your vehicle in your signature, so potentially that is an issue. I would call a Toyota Parts department and ask
 
Now you move the gear to the new pump. You need to torque the bolt to 54 ft-lbs like Dan said. I used a towel and then a channel lock to hold the gear in place while I first used the impact wrench and then torqued the nut down. The towel was to protect the gears.

I then set the O-ring in place.

Now the pump is ready to back in the truck.
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Good evening and thanks for taking the time to share your experience/expertise. I know I appreciate it! I watched another video of this same repair and the guy had to hammer the gear back into place. He used a large deep-well socket. You made no mention of hammering the gear back onto the shaft. I’m curious, did you not have to beat on it, or did you just fail to mention that?

Thanks again!
 
Good evening and thanks for taking the time to share your experience/expertise. I know I appreciate it! I watched another video of this same repair and the guy had to hammer the gear back into place. He used a large deep-well socket. You made no mention of hammering the gear back onto the shaft. I’m curious, did you not have to beat on it, or did you just fail to mention that?

Thanks again!

It has been 12 years and my memory is a bit foggy. I don't recall using a hammer. I would suggest you try and torque it down and if that doesnt work, try a rubber hammer so as not to damage the gears
 
It has been 12 years and my memory is a bit foggy. I don't recall using a hammer. I would suggest you try and torque it down and if that doesnt work, try a rubber hammer so as not to damage the gears
Thanks for replying. I can’t remember what I had for supper yesterday! I have a friend that has a press if need be!
Mike
 
Next I removed the high pressure Hose by first removing the fitting from the top of the gear box.



If your not going to rebuild the hose and have trouble with the flare, you can cut the hose (make sure you do the right one) leaving enough tubing to get a deep socket on it. The correct fitting is the one closer to the drivers fender in the first picture. A regular wrench is used to show which fitting.

You will need th Flare wrench to get the new hose on properly.

Good thing I changed the hose, it was also leaking and you cant see that spot easily when its installed.
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How did you find clearance to turn the wrench ? I can't seem to get enough leverage to break just the high pressure line off. I am just replacing the high pressure line that is leaking badly.
 
How did you find clearance to turn the wrench ? I can't seem to get enough leverage to break just the high pressure line off. I am just replacing the high pressure line that is leaking badly.

Crows foot and long extension from above is how I did mine.
 
Its been 13 years so I would go with what flintknapper said. I dont remember
 
I moved some things around when it got tight. I don't remember what. I know I removed the shield above the U-joint from the steering wheel. I definitely didn't use any special tools. Flare nut wrench to get a good, tight grab on it, I guess.
 
Has anyone had any issues getting the high pressure hose into the steering box? I bought a Sunsong replacement hose and I've spent hours today trying to get it to seat in the threads but it just keeps popping out.
 

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