Power Steering Line Confirmation

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Ironbuck

Ironbuck

10 Year
Joined
Jun 27, 2014
Threads
7
Messages
51
Location
Columbus, OH
I was working on my power steering. I replaced the HP line, pump, and the silicon for the lines that from the gear box to the cooler and from the cooler to the reservoir.

I started it up to bleed the system last night and it ran awful. The steering was loose at first and then began to tighten up. It was making a whine and decided to shut it down. It did not see a leak last night, but I now see a leak under the pump but I can not tell where from and why.

My fear is that I might have crossed the lines for the chiller and hooked them up wrong.

Of the two leads (close or away from the radiator), which should be connected to the reservoir and which one to the gear box.

Is there a chance I really messed things up?

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How are you bleeding it? Jacked front wheels off ground, car not running(turned off), turning wheel back and forth, lock to lock about 20 times? Then starting the car and doing 20 more?
 
I did not turn the wheel 20 before turning it on. I was doing it while the car was running.

Do you have any input on the orientation of the hoses? I can't tell from the FSM.
 
I don't think it matters if you are asking about the hoses to the paperclip cooler. I can't tell where the picture is taken from, sure looks like the tranny cooler lines to me; however, the pressure coming out of those lines is amazing, so I really don't think it matters if it is coming or going.

FWIW, I always use tranny specific lines. Rated for higher pressure and heat than most and put up with ATF. Silicone is likely fine, but i would hope you got some high quality lines.

Anyway, I have found that you need to first bleed the system with car off, otherwise air gets in the pump and then froth and bubbles.
 
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I really appreciate the feedback. Maybe a I can take my brake bleeder and drain the system and fill and retry to rebleed.

Can some one send me a picture so I can verify if I should reconnect my hoses not hedge my bets.
 
On my 80, looking at the "paper clip" cooler tube, the hose that returns to the reservoir is connected to the fat, forward most end of the cooler.

Are you following the FSM? @2fpower basically outlined the very simple procedure that's found in the FSM. Brake bleeders and such are not necessary. Buying an FSM and using it in the course of maintenance is a huge help.
 
I tried bleeding it again. All the lines appear correct. I think the new pump just failed. Fluid is pouring out the front. Great! Would this be an internal seal? Was due to not bleeding it correctly?

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Where did you buy the pump? Air in the system will not blow seals. Sounds like a shabby remanufacturing job.
 
Out the front of the pump, or possibly out of the front of the block/pump mating surface? I ask because IIRC, the O ring between pump and block is commonly either forgotten (may not come with a new pump) or displaced during installation, which is easy to to.
 
IdahoDoug said:
Out the front of the pump, or possibly out of the front of the block/pump mating surface? I ask because IIRC, the O ring between pump and block is commonly either forgotten (may not come with a new pump) or displaced during installation, which is easy to to.
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Doug, if that large "O" ring is missing, he should be getting a motor oil leak too.
 
I miss spoke. The fluid was coming out of the back thru the port that I belief may be for pressure relief.

Can someone confirm if that is what that port is for.

Can I try to fill and bleed the system or is this pump shot? The O ring is there.

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Just buy a rebuild kit, and rebuild it. After you've done that, that should put a stop to all you oil leaks. A rebuild kit from Rock auto, IIRC will set you back about 35 bucks. There are a ton of posts on here about how to rebuild your pump, i did mine and it took me about 2 to 3 hours.
 
That is apparently a common failure point on some of these reman pumps from somewhere. Another recently posted about his failure on the highway of a "new" pump.

Did you get a TOYOTA pump or from Rock Auto, or from FLAPS?
 
Questions about rebuilding the PS pump:

So I am putting things back together and some things do add up between the write-up and the assembly diagram.

First, when lubricating the assembled parts are we use the ATF oil or penetrating oil? FSM says ATF.

Second, when I am putting in the pump shaft and bearing: shouldn't the shaft be able to freely turn after the snap ring is installed. Right, it will not turn, but it did before I installed the shaft. The pump shaft snap ring did appear to be seat flush - could this be an issue?

Third. When I assemble everything, I have a question about the proper installation of the O-rings? Per the installation diagram, the o-rings called out #24 appear to go as I have installed below. The smaller appears to go up in the recessed area of front plate and the larger appears to go on the lips at the base of the cylinder.

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Fourth. I main reason I am asking these questions is that the rear plate appears to not seat well. I can not tell how to properly orient things. I see in the write up to align the "K" on the cam ring below. It appears pretty straightforward but the rear plate appear to hang up. The affect is that the rear housing plate is sitting too high and I can not compress everything down to set the final snap ring. I wonder if my rear plate is warped a bit or if my compressed assembly is off to start because of the O-rings #24?

Lastly, I already had a pump fail when I switched them out. I am pretty sure that I overfilled the system during the toping off and bleeding of the system. Per the FSM, it seems like you need to flush the system by disconnecting the return hose - then fill and flush the fluid out with a system of turning the engine on for 2 secs and letting the pump flush the fluid through the system; refill and repeat 4-5 times. Does anyone have a photo of the set-up they used for this? Is this the best approach? Is it ok to do this while on jack stands? Finally, how can make sure I do not overfill? Is keep the return off until the system is cycled a couple times the best approach?

Thanks in advance for the insight.
 
I'd say since you can't turn the pump shaft, you haven't seated the pump shaft all the way in the pump housing. Once you've seated it all the way, and after installing the snap ring you'll be able to turn the pump shaft freely. One point on the rear cover, it does have that "spring" washer that you'll need to compress in order to install the rear cover and snap ring. The oil you use when installing all your parts is plain old ATF. As for the #24 O rings, the small O ring goes inside a grove in the I.D. of part #23 to seal oil from getting around shaft # 11, and the large O ring goes in a grove on the O.D. of #23 to seal the oil from leaking pass it, and the pump housing. That O ring #24, because of where you put it in your photo, is the reason why you can't get the rear cover on, because you have it installed in the wrong place.
 
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