Builds PNW 76 Green PIG

[KingAir Driver]

Yea, I've been tossing around color ideas. Blue might be the way to go. This will no way be a frame off resto like my 40, but I do want to do it justice.

If for some reason it wasn’t implied, yes definitely blue and white.

The Green and White kids won’t let you in the club unless it’s shiny, waxed and good up-close.

 

[KingAir Driver]

It’s only been 3 years since an update. I haven’t touched the 55 as I’ve been busy getting my 73 FJ40 on the road. Started to dive into it, first up figuring out the non operational rear window. Key doesn’t turn in the lock and dash switch no motion. Pulled the interior panel on the tailgate, found the power junction block broke in half. New one on order, then go from there…

 

[71greenpig]

Progress is small steps….

 

[Pigeaten]

progress is progress

 

[KingAir Driver]

Ok… I got the new junction block in today. Replaced it, cleaned up the contacts on each wire, still nothing from the motor via the dash switch. I read about bypassing the safety switch, so I pulled the inner DS panel and fished around for wires. Found a thick black ground not connected to anything, side marker light ground not connected, and a BW wire with a heavy sheath covering.

Where did the original safety switch ground to?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Most of us jump out the safety switch. The red jumper wire is the bypass in this photo.

 

[KingAir Driver]

@WarDamnEagle , thanks! I’ll make one tonight and try again tomorrow.

 

[KingAir Driver]

Success. The dash switch works once I bypassed the safety switch, but it looks like it gets stuck half way down. Hmmm.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I'm guessing your gear might be cracked, unless you recently replaced it.

 

[bobm]

Lube it up

 

[KingAir Driver]

Back into it for a quick minute. Switched gears and decided to desmog and rebuild the carb. I started pulling stuff off and realized “is this an FJ60 air cleaner, air rail, low profile 2F valve cover “. Throughly confused, I checked the block # 2F 094668. Matches the build date. Hmm.

 

[KingAir Driver]

3rd carb rebuild is in the books, just waiting on a new idle solenoid and new manifold studs. Need to finish removing the air rail plugs from the head. #1 is wedged in with the P/S bracket, so I’ll need to think outside the box.

 

[KingAir Driver]

Restarting this thread… things I’ve done the last 2 weeks.

Replaced clutch master, slave and hose. Still need to bleed it. Installed the rebuilt carburetor. Replaced the starter with a gear reduction. Replaced the fuel soft lines from the frame to the pump and replaced fuel filter. New petronix coil since the + stud on the old one crumbled off. Need a new battery and a few other things before trying to crank it.

Back on the rear window. Pulled the regulator and glass slides smoothly. Can’t open the tailgate yet. Pulled the access cover to check the motor gear, not seeing any real bad cracks that would cause the sticky window. Wondering if the arms weren’t timed correctly and the glass was getting off alignment and stuck. Ugh…

 

[scrapdaddy]

You're going to put in a new gear, right. That gear is just waiting to break. Did you try pulling the two rods towards each other in order to release the tailgate? ( hope that made sense ).

 

[KingAir Driver]

You're going to put in a new gear, right. That gear is just waiting to break. Did you try pulling the two rods towards each other in order to release the tailgate? ( hope that made sense ).

Yes, my buddy is 3D printing a few for me to try. I’ll soak the locks and try pulling on the rods next. Thanks.

 

[Pighead]

Wondering if the arms weren’t timed correctly and the glass was getting off alignment and stuck. Ugh…

That could be. In your video, 3 1/2 years ago, the bottom of the window does not look quite level...

 

[KingAir Driver]

Put the gear cover back on and hooked up some leads from a 12V battery. The motor runs great full up and down. At the arm level position, can definitely tell the arms aren’t timed correctly. Full down, there’s 6-7 teeth showing. As I’ve researched, 4-5 is usually correct.

I know get bandaids, but can you clamp one arm side and then re-mesh the other side free then clamp. Or do both arms need to be free to mesh?

 

[scrapdaddy]

I believe both arms need to be free, in other words, rotate both until they are free of each other then off set them four or five teeth.

Good Luck!

 

[bobm]

Scraps knows dis Biatch

 

[KingAir Driver]

Another victory this afternoon with the keyed tailgate switch. Key would go in but not turn at all, frozen. Pulled the cover plate off, all the internals were good including the plastic back cap. Shot the heck out of it with WD40, still nothing. So I took a pair of vise grips and attached to the back of the tumbler. Installed the key, then I popped the tumbler with the vise grips. It came free!!

Cleaned up everything and put it back together. Checked it was making contact left and right when turning the key. Good to go.

Hopefully it works when I get everything reinstalled and power applied. On to cleaning the window regulator