Peter's Moose List of Fix Its

[Peters Moose]

Howdy Pablo Cruise... Yeah funny angle on the MC but hopefully will work. Spent 30.00 for it so not a big kick in the gut if it fails to fit.
The fittings are in fact 10mm on the MC and i believe '69 was the last year of the 9mm lines.
I'm trying out the Corolla cylinder because a bunch of the 45 folks have done this on the early cruisers. (Same 3 bolt pattern too-very cool) According to a few posts, the smaller cylinder does a good job of pushing the fluid.
Also the Corolla MC has the same disc/drum set up on the 90's cars, so prop-valves are correct.

Cool fact on the factory shims... Thanks!

I notched the old races with a chop saw (carefully) so they could be extractred out easily once the new races were set. Also used the old bearings to help maintain the integrity as I pressed evrything down.

Thanks for the note Pablo Cruise

Peter

 

[Peters Moose]

Oh the bore on the Corolla MC is .812.

 

[PabloCruise]

Oh the bore on the Corolla MC is .812.

Ah, so 13/16"...

What year master?

 

[Peters Moose]

Ah, so 13/16"...

What year master?

This is from a 1997 Corolla. I checked a few of the auto store sites and infact a split disc/drum set up.

 

[Peters Moose]

Doing a dry fit of all my front end parts before installing on the Moose's axle. Had to grind down the corners of the brake backing (protective) plates a little and clean up a few bad threads in my donor housings.
Next up is aligning the axle to the hub (thanks to a tool loan from a terrific forumite).
Also installing the larger V6 calipers (S13WB) as I hope for a little better stopping power. I have a set of original Toy's but have yet to break them down and perform a rebuild. (Hopefully the piston surfaces are clean) If so I am picking up a rebuild kit from my local dealership ASAP.

The old drums and housings came off with ease.... Thanks to a well maintained axle from the PO.

On we go!! (Oh yeah-I had to see what the 360 Perf. rotors looked like behind the wheel...)

 

[SKULLYOTA]

The re-plumbing of teh brakes is pretty easy, if (after reflaring or using conversion fittings) everything was 10mm then get one stick of 3/16 brake tube from O'Reilly (with 10mm inverted flare ends) and two 10mm unions from summit racing. The main "T" that joins the front and rear brake halves should be on the passenger side frame, under the blower motor.

I did it on my Jan. 1970 pig, with a mini booster and a 1" 4runner MC

edit: if you ever need info on Mini truck axle stuff, look at the Toy mini truck section on Pirate. everything you could need to know.

 

[Peters Moose]

Excellent Skullyota thanks. Lucky I have a napa by work.

So here's a glimpse of the calps and one piston... Not looking good so far. The fluid out of these were almost black. Doubt they were ever serviced. Looks like new units or do you folks feel these can be rebuilt????

 

[Peters Moose]

Well upon further official review... I am going to turn these in and buy new calipers from my local Toyota place.
I can get OEM V6 calps at 110.00/each and new pads/shims for another 80 or so at the dealership price. AND I won't have any worries as I am braking at the bottom of either side of Grants Pass.

The calps I got as extras from my axle purchase are just too far gone once I broke them down. Besides I can save a little extra as use these as my cores.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Good decision!

 

[SKULLYOTA]

you even have the bolt-on front rotors instead of the press-thru studs, makes life easy.

 

[Peters Moose]

Thanks all and happy to be getting closer on the brake mod. The new plumbing and MC-Booster should be the last step in the plan.
After that need to install/plumb my steering pump and that will wrap up 2 big items on my list.

 

[Peters Moose]

Got the parts together and finally installed on the disc brake swap. Super happy so far and how this is all going together.
Forgot to get the spacers for the steering arms. But will be able to roll again on all four wheels.

Luv the rotors. A few more nuts and other bits to go. HUGE THANKS TO BugusOne for assisting with the shim setup.

 

[bogus one]

Glad I could help. Looks great

 

[Peters Moose]

Quick question... As I locate the spacers for the end of the steering arms, (to bolt up to the TRE's) noticed that there is a 10-15 degree dip towards the center of the arms. Maybe because my rig is on blocks, but thought this looked odd as I bolted everything up. Normal to be off from level like that???

Will try to take a better pic to show the angle.

 

[Peters Moose]

Also a question on the stock Toyota 42601-60072 steel rims...
What tire size works with those rims?? 235/75R15's?? Cannot locate that info.

Also-Anybody use these with front disc brake conversions with the larger 4Runner calps??
Thanks all-
Peter

 

[Devils Paw 80]

15 x5.5 wheels, I believe. You could run 30x9.5 and maybe 31x 10.5 too, if you want a bit larger tire.

 

[Peters Moose]

Ah ok thanks! About the same size tire then as on my pre-runner.
Appreciate the info.

 

[tucker74]

Lots of us run 33x10.50s on stock rims

Tucker

 

[Peters Moose]

Appreciate it Tucker... That sounds like a good option. Don't know why but I think the steelies just look better on the 55's.
Looking forward to a few spring time trips coming up.

 

[PabloCruise]

Lots of us run 33x10.50s on stock rims

Tucker

Tucker, what kind of pressure do you like to run in those for going down the road? I have the BFG ATs and was trying to get an even contact patch with lower inflation pressure, down around 24 PSI. I was driving up to WY in some pretty good wind and it started getting uncomfortable. SO I upped the pressure, but my contact is mostly the center patch, not so much the shoulders.

Appreciate it Tucker... That sounds like a good option. Don't know why but I think the steelies just look better on the 55's.
Looking forward to a few spring time trips coming up.

The steelies do indeed look right on a Pig.