- Thread starter
- #121
Thanks a ton. I'm ordering a fj80 master right away. Great point and looking better than the Wilwood clunker I think I have. Will post my results asap.
Peter's Moose List of Fix Its
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I hope it works well!
- Thread starter
- #123
Decided to re-plumb a FJ80 M/C into the brake system this time in hopes I could get the rear brakes working again. Even ran a new rear line aft to change out the old one. Poured another quart of fluid thru the system and having the exact same issue of pedal to the floor. I also went around and double checked I had the shoes just touching on all four cylinders.
Removing the drivers side hub it is very apparent when I pump the brake pedal, it takes 3 pumps to get the cylinders to start moving. I may make another trip to the parts store for a few more quarts if the issue is not enough bleeding has been done. (I'm up to nearly 2 gallons of brake fluid spent on this.) If that's normal than hopefully I'm OK.
So I have the FJ80 M/C-Thru the Wilwood proportioning valve and out to all four corners. I believe Toyota did have disc/drums on their rigs during this time?? So not sure why this would be such an issue with all new cylinders and on my second M/C.... If I revert back to drums in the front and stick with original specs, I'm not certain I will have the exact same issue again. As for rear disc setup, I have found a few change over kits like JT but not thrilled with the few items I got from them.
At this point the front discs are solid and I am going to keep going with finishing the PS install, FJ60 alternator upgrade and getting in my new radiator. (Also going to switch over to Evans coolant)
Bummer but at this point, after I take it to get bled at a brake shop, I need to cut my loses and move on at get out there on the road!
Removing the drivers side hub it is very apparent when I pump the brake pedal, it takes 3 pumps to get the cylinders to start moving. I may make another trip to the parts store for a few more quarts if the issue is not enough bleeding has been done. (I'm up to nearly 2 gallons of brake fluid spent on this.) If that's normal than hopefully I'm OK.
So I have the FJ80 M/C-Thru the Wilwood proportioning valve and out to all four corners. I believe Toyota did have disc/drums on their rigs during this time?? So not sure why this would be such an issue with all new cylinders and on my second M/C.... If I revert back to drums in the front and stick with original specs, I'm not certain I will have the exact same issue again. As for rear disc setup, I have found a few change over kits like JT but not thrilled with the few items I got from them.
At this point the front discs are solid and I am going to keep going with finishing the PS install, FJ60 alternator upgrade and getting in my new radiator. (Also going to switch over to Evans coolant)
Bummer but at this point, after I take it to get bled at a brake shop, I need to cut my loses and move on at get out there on the road!
Why the wildwood proportioning valve? Did the 80's have one? Disc front and drum rear requires some sort of metering but I have no idea if the 80's had one or not. Sorry to hear about your struggles. Been there, when the through a gallon of brake fluid after modifying my brakes on a volvo. Finally power bled them and was satisfied. The brake lines were in the shape of an upside down "u" and collected all the air bubbles.
Toyota did have disc/drum on many Cruisers, including the early 80 series.
Maybe try bypassing the Wilwood valve for now, until you get some reasonable brake pedal?
Maybe try bypassing the Wilwood valve for now, until you get some reasonable brake pedal?
- Thread starter
- #127
Interesting... Will have to study that setup a little more closely to see what ways the rears were engineered.
Thanks gents.
Thanks gents.
A residual valve acts like a one-way or check valve to maintain brake system pressure to eliminate the problems of a spongy pedal.
More info: Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-13707
- Thread starter
- #129
Thanks J Mack... Yup got one on order from Summit and will be breaking into the lines hopefully one last time.
I just picked up another 2 quarts of brake juice to do one last monster bleed and hope for the best.
Hopefully flushing three-four bowls per wheel will get the sticky air out of the system.
Thanks for the reply!
I just picked up another 2 quarts of brake juice to do one last monster bleed and hope for the best.
Hopefully flushing three-four bowls per wheel will get the sticky air out of the system.
Thanks for the reply!
Did you bench bleed the MC?
One thing to try is to plug off the front brake port on the MC and see if you get a firm pedal with just the rear brakes. That way it just isolates the issues.
Then if it's still mushy, cap off either the right or left side at the drum, this will help determine if you've got an issue with a particular wheel cylinder causing fluid to bypass internally.
Lastly, plug the rear port on the MC to see if by chance the rear circuit of the MC is a problem.
Plugging both ports at the MC might just be a good first step. If you have firm non moving pedal, then it's downstream of the MC.
Good luck.
One thing to try is to plug off the front brake port on the MC and see if you get a firm pedal with just the rear brakes. That way it just isolates the issues.
Then if it's still mushy, cap off either the right or left side at the drum, this will help determine if you've got an issue with a particular wheel cylinder causing fluid to bypass internally.
Lastly, plug the rear port on the MC to see if by chance the rear circuit of the MC is a problem.
Plugging both ports at the MC might just be a good first step. If you have firm non moving pedal, then it's downstream of the MC.
Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #131
Just a few things to check off the list. Got the new aluminum radiator installed and works great. Decided to do an Evans coolant swap and so far running good. When I changed out the front tires, decided to take a close look at the disc swap up front. So far so good!
Looks like you have the same powersteering pump as I do. (orange45). Have you managed to adjust so that it doesnt make noise. I cant get my alternator quiet either!!!! The engine sounds so great when they dont make noise. Its not a scream just a loud irritating rubbing!
- Thread starter
- #133
My alt is new (usa rebuilt) and pretty quiet. The sag box (I think a cj5 spec) is pretty good. Kinda surprised since I drove a fair bit w/o the pump hooked up. Getting some pops and clicks on turns so need to get an alignment done after I adjusted as best I could.