Peter's Moose List of Fix Its

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Right on PabloCruise... Yeah the tires are further down the punch list but I will be making calls and picking up rims as I can from toyota.
I just ordered/installed the Tacoma tires thru TR online and worked out great. 31" Yokahama's (Geolanders A/T-S) and had installed locally all for 620.00. (510 for tires with visa card+110.00 for install and waste fee)
Will do the same for the Moose later this year.
 
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Question on the MC cylinder option... The angled Bronco bracket (A monster) runs smack dab into the webber... Looks like I am back at square one. So I am returning to the idea of the Corolla MC (What many folks with 40's use) and getting an adapter for the firewall to keep any fresh holes to a minimum as this idea may fail too.

It seems that the FJ60 or FJ80 masters seem to not work well with most of the posts I read. (bad pedal feel ect...)
Any fresh ideas on this subject??? Thanks!!
(New disc swap up front and old drums in the back)
 
That is a beastly looking thing... I just made a block out of wood and took it to the machine shop. I have seen where a number of people have used the "mini truck" BB and MC. That is what I made the adapter block for... The BB/MC came out of an '84. I hope to get the BB installed next Monday after I get back n town. I'll take some pics of what I have in the morning.
 
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Thanks a ton Toyo_judson....
I am also thinking of just forking over the 375 bucks (ouch) and getting the Man-A-Fre Wildwood complete setup- 47201-KITDC/DM.
That way I would have the adapter and a good M/C to live with. I don't have room for any booster on the market but would be happy with any working brake system at this point.
 
Oooo, that is a poke for what it is. When are you going to do this? If I can get mine installed on Monday, I'd be willing to take measurements of how far mine sticks out and even send the block of wood I used for a template, if it works...
 
Toyo_Judson said:
Oooo, that is a poke for what it is. When are you going to do this? If I can get mine installed on Monday, I'd be willing to take measurements of how far mine sticks out and even send the block of wood I used for a template, if it works...
Click to expand...

No way really!?!??? That might be a huge help. Let me know how yours goes in and many thanks on the info.
Peter
 
Ok, it went pretty good. Check out the "What'd you do to your pig today" and the "Early piggy brake booster adapter" threads for pics. I can mark up my template with some small changes I made and send it to you, or just take a bunch of pics of it, your choice.
 
Toyo_Judson said:
Ok, it went pretty good. Check out the "What'd you do to your pig today" and the "Early piggy brake booster adapter" threads for pics. I can mark up my template with some small changes I made and send it to you, or just take a bunch of pics of it, your choice.
Click to expand...
Pics would be great! I may have a slot opening up in a buddy's shop space that can hammer this project the rest of the way home. But still would appreciate a few images. Thanks!
 
Man thanks a ton for the detailed images... I know that all takes time to do.
Great going
 
Giving some much needed attention to the rear brakes. Decided to rebuild all four cylinders in hopes I can get them back to working order and keep original parts back there. Sadly 2 of the 4 cylinder adjustment screws are completely seized. (Even after a 3 day soak)
The front disc conversion is working great and I still get around town. However I need to get the rears 100% before a trip to the mountains can happen in a few weeks.
Reinstalled and did a bleed all around. Sadly mushy pedal with both wheels badly binding in one spot. Adjusted as best I can but zero pedal is still the best I can get. I hate to swap the cylinders (if I can find them for a late 60's model) with cheap knock offs, and end up in the same situation. I really like the idea of a disc/drum setup and hope to keep that idea alive.


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Peters Moose said:
Sadly 2 of the 4 cylinder adjustment screws are completely seized. (Even after a 3 day soak)
Click to expand...

80/20 Kerosene or mineral spirits /ATF mix, get them good and hot with a propane torch and drop them in a metal container of the mix, repeat until the loosen up. Best done outside buy I do it in the shop all the time and regret the smoke show every time.
 
Decided to skip trying to rehab out of stock parts and go with '70+ Wheel cylinders instead. If anything from a safety standpoint and I will have more readily available parts in the future.

I will replace the flex line that is between the right rear and the frame.
After that I will just make/form my own jumpers with 3/16 pipe and standard 10mm fittings to join all four cylinders. I will post up the change over with pics too. Hopefully it will work!!
 
J Mack said:
80/20 Kerosene or mineral spirits /ATF mix, get them good and hot with a propane torch and drop them in a metal container of the mix, repeat until the loosen up. Best done outside buy I do it in the shop all the time and regret the smoke show every time.
Click to expand...
Thanks J Mack! I like that procedure.
 
Peters Moose said:
Thanks J Mack! I like that procedure.
Click to expand...

PB Blaster Penetrating Oil will work better if it’s available in your area, same process, heat then oil let cool some and try to loosen it up.

Sometimes it's hard to find local to me and ill use the mineral spirits /ATF mix.
 
Well the drama of the rear brakes continues... I think I may have the wrong M/C in the truck installed. I have a disc/drum set up and converted to '71 wheel cylinders in the rear. I made all new ni-cop lines, adjusted all 4 cylinders till I had contact with the drums then backed off 4-5 clicks. Sadly pedal still drops to the floor.

I may be relagated to drive just on the front discs. Sucks as I want the safety aspect of all four wheels doing something. But at this point I need to get on the road and the front disc setup should be fine. The tandem Wilwood cylinder is a nice unit but may not be correct for a disc/drum setup. I use a 3/8 plug in the rear output and works great to isolate the fronts from the backs.
 
Backing off 4-5 clicks is way to far. I tighten until I have some drag and back off 1 click.

I had the opposite issue on my 40, it would lock up the rear brakes well before the front discs. I had the MC for drums and removed the rear valve as most people do but still couldn't get good stopping power. I ended up putting a new MC from an FJ80 and what a difference.

Here's the information for the MC.

Master cylinder - front disc rear drums
 
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