See, that is why I hang out around you folks. I learn something all the time.
Patty - A 1980 “Long” bed. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BlueCruiser84
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #43
So is the fusible link pictures what it looks like on the truck? Or is that from another Toyota? I’m trying to figure out if I still have the plugs on the vehicle harness.
I've been stewing on a solution and kept my mouth shut because I'm not sure it's really is a solution.
For my 3RZ project I need to do a little rewire of the truck's power off the battery. I found a "solution" that I think will work. Bottom line is I need to partially bypass the factory fuse block and fuse links, which on my truck are just big fuses. My "solution" was to use one of the MIDI fuses, hoping that they are a substitute for the 80A fuse link I currently have. Originally I was going with the 70A alternator found on pre-2000 3RZ trucks. Those trucks have 80A fuse links. But, I found a 80A alternator from a 2000+ truck, so I will need to upgrade to a 100A fuse link. Pic of the 80A MIDI fuse in the holder.
Link: MIDI® Fuses - https://www.delcity.net/store/MIDI%C2%AE-Fuses/p_819005.h_819004
I think this idea might work for rewiring your fusible links. You just need to decide on the fuse amps. The fuse holders do snap together which would make wiring the three fusible links real clean.
For my 3RZ project I need to do a little rewire of the truck's power off the battery. I found a "solution" that I think will work. Bottom line is I need to partially bypass the factory fuse block and fuse links, which on my truck are just big fuses. My "solution" was to use one of the MIDI fuses, hoping that they are a substitute for the 80A fuse link I currently have. Originally I was going with the 70A alternator found on pre-2000 3RZ trucks. Those trucks have 80A fuse links. But, I found a 80A alternator from a 2000+ truck, so I will need to upgrade to a 100A fuse link. Pic of the 80A MIDI fuse in the holder.
Link: MIDI® Fuses - https://www.delcity.net/store/MIDI%C2%AE-Fuses/p_819005.h_819004
I think this idea might work for rewiring your fusible links. You just need to decide on the fuse amps. The fuse holders do snap together which would make wiring the three fusible links real clean.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #47
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #48
Got the bed pulled off. I still haven’t found any surprise rust which is pretty cool.
I’ve found lots of other surprises like frame cracks and fender cracks and bent body mounts. But no rust!
I’ve found lots of other surprises like frame cracks and fender cracks and bent body mounts. But no rust!
Got the bed pulled off. I still haven’t found any surprise rust which is pretty cool.
I’ve found lots of other surprises like frame cracks and fender cracks and bent body mounts. But no rust!
I do hope you are able to revive this old girl.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #50
Well everyone has a different opinion on what constitutes a revival. My intent is to build this truck into a “sleeper” style wheeler that I can hop in and drive whenever I want to. I don’t plan to do paint or body work or any of that fancy stuff.
Assuming I get it to a point where I feel like it won’t be a huge waste of time and money I’d like to swap a more modern 4 cylinder into so the truck can be a little more interstate friendly.
Hey, I'm new to this forum but recently bought myself a 1981 (which was subsequently stolen & recovered) and I was hoping you could give me more information on the patina you used to remove that surface rust from your paint? My rig has some rust as well and those results are killer!
Also I recently was working on my catalytic converter (installing it) and found a rusted panel in my frame that was promptly fixed, glad to see that yours doesn't have any major issues! The bed is currently off and I just treated the frame with some POR-15 and plan to do a topcoat this weekend!
Best of luck on your build!
FYI I have a 5 speed with a 22R and the W52? (5-speed tranny) and the thing really struggles on the highway with stock tires.
Also I recently was working on my catalytic converter (installing it) and found a rusted panel in my frame that was promptly fixed, glad to see that yours doesn't have any major issues! The bed is currently off and I just treated the frame with some POR-15 and plan to do a topcoat this weekend!
Best of luck on your build!FYI I have a 5 speed with a 22R and the W52? (5-speed tranny) and the thing really struggles on the highway with stock tires.
Check that your carb is opening up all the way. I have a 22R 4 speed and 33” tires. I can cruise at 75-80 mph on flat highways, definitely slow down quite a bit on hills. I have a Webber 32/36, when I first had it the secondary never opened because there was to much slack in the throttle cable.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #53
Hey, I'm new to this forum but recently bought myself a 1981 (which was subsequently stolen & recovered) and I was hoping you could give me more information on the patina you used to remove that surface rust from your paint? My rig has some rust as well and those results are killer!
Also I recently was working on my catalytic converter (installing it) and found a rusted panel in my frame that was promptly fixed, glad to see that yours doesn't have any major issues! The bed is currently off and I just treated the frame with some POR-15 and plan to do a topcoat this weekend!
FYI I have a 5 speed with a 22R and the W52? (5-speed tranny) and the thing really struggles on the highway with stock tires.
The best resource I found was. Actually on MUD and referenced it back near the beginning of this thread, but I can’t remember if I linked it. Here it is: Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/preserving-patina-how-to-tips-and-tricks.1097611/
To sum it up, wash the truck, scrub with CLR and a green scotchbrite, treat desired areas with a rust converter, coat with boiled linseed oil, penetrol, fluid film, etc. the link above does a good job detailing the steps.
For your truck also make sure the vacuum advance diaphragms are working on the distributor - neither of mine held vacuum. I just got a working vacuum advance diaphragm in the mail today. Hopefully that makes a difference in “power”.
Thanks for linking that! Also thank you both for the tips, definitely did not mean to hijack your thread! I also have a 32/36 so I'll check out the throttle later today and also the hoses. I don't have the retard on the distributor, just the advance so maybe that's something to also look into... Thanks again for providing that information, that truck is looking awesome!
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #55
Been making progress. Rear frame is all cleaned up. Decide not to paint it, but I wire brushed it and wiped the whole thing down with rust converter. Final plan is to blast it with Woolwax inside and out.
Frame portion under cab is cleaned up.I oiled the top while I could reach it and then pulled the body lift. For some reason the transmission/xfer would not clear the body as they sat. They were pushed over to the PS about an inch so I used an old crossmember/skid plate I had to build a new mount to get everything centered in the transmission tunnel.
Picture of the cut crossmember awaiting reinforcement.
And truck with no body lift.
Finally - I banged out the crumpled front fender so I can fit new headlight bezels and a side marker light. It doesn’t look great, but it matches the rest of the truck...
Frame portion under cab is cleaned up.I oiled the top while I could reach it and then pulled the body lift. For some reason the transmission/xfer would not clear the body as they sat. They were pushed over to the PS about an inch so I used an old crossmember/skid plate I had to build a new mount to get everything centered in the transmission tunnel.
Picture of the cut crossmember awaiting reinforcement.
And truck with no body lift.
Finally - I banged out the crumpled front fender so I can fit new headlight bezels and a side marker light. It doesn’t look great, but it matches the rest of the truck...
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #56
Does anyone know what this camper top is?
That camper is probably as old as the truck.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #58
Replaced smashed factory crossmember with this skidmember I had from a part out. In order to remove the body lift I had to shift the trans/xfer over about an inch to the drivers side. I cut and welded the skid to accomplish that. Pictures are terrible.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #59
I’ve also been building this bedside/tailgate brace to support everything in back. When the bob/chop was completed they cut all the structure out of the back which caused the tailgate mounts to bend upward about an inch and the sides to be pretty floppy.
Not very exciting, but here’s the piece that bolts Inside the bed. There will be a corresponding piece underneath the bed that welds to the sheet metal and the tailgate mount plates. This top piece will bolt through the bed to the bottom plate and through the taillight housings on the sides. Hopefully this will keep everything in place.
Not very exciting, but here’s the piece that bolts Inside the bed. There will be a corresponding piece underneath the bed that welds to the sheet metal and the tailgate mount plates. This top piece will bolt through the bed to the bottom plate and through the taillight housings on the sides. Hopefully this will keep everything in place.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #60
Here’s how the brace looks under the bed. It’s bolted through, welded to the bed itself, and welded and gusseted to the hinge plates.
