Opinions needed. Any body here have an opinion? (Dumbest question I've ever asked)

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Hobbs81

Hobbs81

Joined
Jun 3, 2019
Threads
55
Messages
384
Location
Reno. NV
OK, I've decided to go full stupid on this for an attempt at the near $100K BAT crowd. I shared this before, but I got the Pig below for $1,500 and it is largely complete and rust free. (It was at somebody's honey hole out in the middle of the desert). I'm gonna go crate LS of some sort, stock suspension, probably stock transfer case and axles (re-built). Trailblazer leather seats. If something can't be found (OEM dome light, etc) it will be substituted. My question is about transmission. Manual or auto? Manual would be NV4500 probably, auto 4L60.
I'm only interested in return on investment as far as the trans goes. What I worry about with the auto is the amount of heat it produces. We just don't have much grill area., and it's also going to get AC. Thoughts?

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Hobbs81 said:
OK, I've decided to go full stupid on this for an attempt at the near $100K BAT crowd. I shared this before, but I got the Pig below for $1,500 and it is largely complete and rust free. (It was at somebody's honey hole out in the middle of the desert). I'm gonna go crate LS of some sort, stock suspension, probably stock transfer case and axles (re-built). Trailblazer leather seats. If something can't be found (OEM dome light, etc) it will be substituted. My question is about transmission. Manual or auto? Manual would be NV4500 probably, auto 4L60.
I'm only interested in return on investment as far as the trans goes. What I worry about with the auto is the amount of heat it produces. We just don't have much grill area., and it's also going to get AC. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

No thought on the AC other than there seems to be lots of automatics behind SBC engines in pigs around. I did find the highlighted sentence interesting. If you are going non-OEM on engine, trans, seats, etc., what difference does a dome light, or anything else, matter? If you're going "restomod" then go for it with anything and everything that's a perceived improvement over OEM.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
No thought on the AC other than there seems to be lots of automatics behind SBC engines in pigs around. I did find the highlighted sentence interesting. If you are going non-OEM on engine, trans, seats, etc., what difference does a dome light, or anything else, matter? If you're going "restomod" then go for it with anything and everything that's a perceived improvement over OEM.
Click to expand...
I agree. The dome light was a stupid example, but if I can't find front turn signals or more obvious things like that I may ask the group what they think best substitutions are. Even tho I am hoping for the high $$ I have to control costs whenever possible.
 
There’s a couple of standout 5 spd manual choices to go behind an LS. Toyota produced several 5 spd varieties but the one most commonly associated with Landcruisers is the H55F. The benefit with this one is it was mated to an LC split case which is an upgrade over the older one piece units, but does not have provisions for a driveline park brake. This area adds a whole other dimension to the complexity, so I’ll mention it but not go into it. Beyond that your obstacle is to get a bellhousing that will mate the H55F to an LS.
You mentioned the NV4500. It’s physically larger and heavier than the H55F, but both versions (early and late) have a lower 1st gear ratio than the H55F. The NV4500 will mate to the LS with either a factory GM bellhousing or an aftermarket aluminum unit like Advanced Adapters, then you just need an adapter to join it to your T-case of choice, which AA makes adapters to hook up to either a single piece case or split case.
 
Start with the Advance adapters website, Pick an engine then trans and then Transfercase. Its really that easy! for Simple KISS (keep it simple stuupid). Engine and Trans that came together from the manufacture IE. LS 5.3/ 4L60 then adapter to the Split case transfercase. Thats a winning combo for any power train swap. Any heat problems can be solved with a remote cooler and fan assy. Good Luck.
 
RUSH55 said:
There’s a couple of standout 5 spd manual choices to go behind an LS. Toyota produced several 5 spd varieties but the one most commonly associated with Landcruisers is the H55F. The benefit with this one is it was mated to an LC split case which is an upgrade over the older one piece units, but does not have provisions for a driveline park brake. This area adds a whole other dimension to the complexity, so I’ll mention it but not go into it. Beyond that your obstacle is to get a bellhousing that will mate the H55F to an LS.
You mentioned the NV4500. It’s physically larger and heavier than the H55F, but both versions (early and late) have a lower 1st gear ratio than the H55F. The NV4500 will mate to the LS with either a factory GM bellhousing or an aftermarket aluminum unit like Advanced Adapters, then you just need an adapter to join it to your T-case of choice, which AA makes adapters to hook up to either a single piece case or split case.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I have installed two NV4500s in CJs and I like the way they shift. Shorter throws than older T-18s and such. 5th gear is useless unless you have the HP to use it, but the LS should. 4L60 would definitely be cheaper in the end I think. NVs are pricy and then I have to find bellhousing, invent a clutch, and hope I didn't miss some little detail that the automatic would have not needed. Yes, the parking brake is going to be a pain. Not sure the hand lever is compatible with a V8 swap. I've heard something on the pushrods near the firewall interfere with the engine, but I don't know. I love a good adventure!
 
landcrusiergod1 said:
Start with the Advance adapters website, Pick an engine then trans and then Transfercase. Its really that easy! for Simple KISS (keep it simple stuupid). Engine and Trans that came together from the manufacture IE. LS 5.3/ 4L60 then adapter to the Split case transfercase. Thats a winning combo for any power train swap. Any heat problems can be solved with a remote cooler and fan assy. Good Luck.
Click to expand...
Good advice!
 
Well, I have an LS (Vortec) and 4L60. I put the largest radiator and shroud from Speedway I could fit, and put an external trans cooler. I run a/c and I live in San Diego. I drove it all summer and the temp never got to 200 degrees. It typically is at 180.
 
Megadoomer said:
Well, I have an LS (Vortec) and 4L60. I put the largest radiator and shroud from Speedway I could fit, and put an external trans cooler. I run a/c and I live in San Diego. I drove it all summer and the temp never got to 200 degrees. It typically is at 180.
Click to expand...
Oh, thats great to know. My current setup in my own Pig is a TBI 350, and I have a hard time keeping it cool with auto and AC. But I have the original radiator and a single taurus fan. I'd much rather do an auto. No clutch linkages and the trans itself should be cheaper. TBI 350...all the heat and none of the power. 😖
 
I had a tbi 350 and 700r4 and it over heated all the time. The LS with the clutch fan and a good Trans cooler has been great.
 
Megadoomer said:
I had a tbi 350 and 700r4 and it over heated all the time. The LS with the clutch fan and a good Trans cooler has been great.
Click to expand...
Yup, that's me. TBI 350, 700R4 and AC to boot. I have two trans coolers already (one in front of the radiator and a derale with it's own fan) and I can't keep either the engine or trans temp where I want it.
 
With my LS, I matched to the L460E and love the combo. Big Griffin aluminum radiator and I run without any heat problem. I've got AC but chose not to run a cooler for the transmission. No particular logic for not adding the transmission cooler other than I didn't think the vehicle demanded one. We will see. If you're going with an aluminum radiator, buy a version with ports for the trans cooler if you want to be safe.
 
I am going to politely and respectfully disagree with the internal cooler. The internal cooler is literally just a tiny coil in one of the tanks. In many cases the transmission will run cooler than the engine, but will be heated up to the engine temp because it is linked to the radiator.

Your radiator options open up more if you you are not looking for the trans cooler too. The radiator I got was built for LS swaps and was a really good deal.
www.speedwaymotors.com

Universal LS Swap Radiator Kit w/ Steam Port Hose Adapter, Double

If you've decided to add modern power to your ride using an LS series engine, this LS Swap Radiator Kit is the perfect way to protect your investment and ensure proper cooling system function. We wanted to offer a solution for the budget-minded builder that also kept aesthetics in mind. Instead...
www.speedwaymotors.com www.speedwaymotors.com

This thing fits perfectly between the inner fenders and has a good height. I bought the shroud kit that fit so it and I don't think cooling is going to be an issue for me.
 
H55F can have a parking brake. Both OEM and aftermarket are possible. Contact Valley Hybrids for OEM, google for aftermarket.

Bellhousings for GM to Toyota are available. AA makes one, Marks makes one. Adapter Kits | Advance Adapters - https://www.advanceadapters.com/categories/adapter-kits/61/0/0/0/0/0/88/0/

NV4500s are expensive. Maybe look at the new Tremec TR-4050 4wd transmission. Axis Industries makes an adapter to the Toyota split case.

AT fluid temps of < 220F are fine. Cooling with water is more efficient (higher theta JA) than cooling with air. Slightly higher load on the cooling system though.

The highest-priced FJ55 on BAT was this one for $85,000. Interestingly(?) I was started at BTB about the time I had my 40 there, and finished at TLC … about the time I had my 40 there. It was sold on BAT by @overton, who reported that the original build cost was over $130,000. Given what those shops charge, I believe it. (Neither will touch a vehicle of mine again.)

I have a 5.7 Vortec / 4L60e setup in my 40. It’s OK, but I’m literally removing it and going to a 1fz-fe out of a 105.

I actually have nearly all the weird stuff you’ll find in the photos on that BAT FJ55 on my 40: A 5.7L, 4L60E, transfer case, the Old Aire “Hurricane” AC, the TLC AC and headlight / washer knobs, the Ididit column, same radiator. I even have a “spare” FJ55 that I bought from @TachedOutOffRoad. Hmm. 🤔

You did ask for opinions.
 
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Hobbs81 said:
Thanks! I have installed two NV4500s in CJs and I like the way they shift. Shorter throws than older T-18s and such. 5th gear is useless unless you have the HP to use it, but the LS should. 4L60 would definitely be cheaper in the end I think. NVs are pricy and then I have to find bellhousing, invent a clutch, and hope I didn't miss some little detail that the automatic would have not needed. Yes, the parking brake is going to be a pain. Not sure the hand lever is compatible with a V8 swap. I've heard something on the pushrods near the firewall interfere with the engine, but I don't know. I love a good adventure!
Click to expand...
yes love them too, put one in my 94 wrangler when i put a chevy 350 in it. bullet proof and heavy SOB.
yes, real easy using advance adaptors. i sound old but back then all we had were the parts books but still rather easy.
 
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