Thanks, ForealBoreal... I got a pail of 15W40 last spring, I'll have a look 
Yes, Calcium is definitely better for our engines. This is great news
Yes, Calcium is definitely better for our engines. This is great news
Once again..debate on the right oil for 1HD-T and other old Toyota diesel engines.
- Thread starter Cañonero
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks, ForealBoreal... I got a pail of 15W40 last spring, I'll have a look
Yes, Calcium is definitely better for our engines. This is great news
I know! I get pails of rotella for $59 bucks before the green fees.
I can't get delo where I live for cheap and even down south its $70 bucks.
I am curious to try synthetic next winter. That T6 seems like good stuff.
Since the topic title includes "and other old Toyota diesel engines".. and with the debate somewhat including differences in how JASO & API oils perform on DI and IDI engines, does anyone happen to know what oil Toyota specified for the 1KZ-TE?
I can't seem to find a viscosity or standards requirement anywhere.
I can't seem to find a viscosity or standards requirement anywhere.
First let me say this to the webmaster, I almost did not see this post because of those
google ads and I only found there was indeed an answer ONLY AFTER I HAD TURNED JAVASCRIPT OFF and reloaded the page!!!. The forum has become overrun by adds of late, it seriously impedes its functionality To answer your question, from quickly reading the specs on this engine here, you do require oil with the best soot control so I would go with exactly the same engine oil specs as those for the 1HD-T.
Or you could go on to here and look for manuals for your vehicle/engine for more info...
First let me say this to the webmaster, I almost did not see this post because of those
become a silverstar member for 10 bucks. Annoying ads are gone. This site alone is tons of help and its for a good cause. I know if I didn't have the help of this community it would be a lot harder.
Thanks guys!
I didn't remember seeing it in my Factory Service Manual, but it turns out the requirements for the 1KZ-TE are in there.
"Oil Grade:
API CF-4 or CF (You may also use API CE or CD)"
Then they give the standard temperature & viscosity chart we've all seen before.
Granted.. all of this is right after telling you to check the oil for "discoloration", and to replace if the quality is "visibly poor". Not sure how sound this advice is. in a diesel anyway.
I'm running Mobil1 TDT in this engine and have started wondering if I'd be better served by one of the Jaso DH-1 oils. So the relevant question: assuming calcium actually is better under higher temperatures, is the 1KZ-TE one of the classic "japanese" diesels in that it generally runs higher oil temps, necessitating the higher calcium in the first place? I would just find some then do a UOA... but I'm having some trouble (and don't want to deal with the amsoil hooplah).. but if all of this doesn't even apply to my engine I won't bother.
Thoughts?
"Oil Grade:
API CF-4 or CF (You may also use API CE or CD)"
Then they give the standard temperature & viscosity chart we've all seen before.
Granted.. all of this is right after telling you to check the oil for "discoloration", and to replace if the quality is "visibly poor". Not sure how sound this advice is. in a diesel anyway.
I'm running Mobil1 TDT in this engine and have started wondering if I'd be better served by one of the Jaso DH-1 oils. So the relevant question: assuming calcium actually is better under higher temperatures, is the 1KZ-TE one of the classic "japanese" diesels in that it generally runs higher oil temps, necessitating the higher calcium in the first place? I would just find some then do a UOA... but I'm having some trouble (and don't want to deal with the amsoil hooplah).. but if all of this doesn't even apply to my engine I won't bother.
Thoughts?
Last edited:
1HDT Toyota oil filter at 1st Toyota- Tacoma Wa. $14.75 USD
3.79 liters Delo 400 15/40 LE at Wal Mart in Wa. $10.50 USD
Same filter at Richmond Toyota $40.00 tax in
1 Liter Delo 400 15/40 LE at B.C. Chevron dealer $6.50
Jeeeez
3.79 liters Delo 400 15/40 LE at Wal Mart in Wa. $10.50 USD
Same filter at Richmond Toyota $40.00 tax in
1 Liter Delo 400 15/40 LE at B.C. Chevron dealer $6.50
Jeeeez
Cruisin'
Out in the shop, building something cool!
I bought a couple 4l jugs of Delo 400 10w30 at the Peterbilt dealer in Abbotsford for around $16ea. Look around bit, there are better deals to be had. They didn't keep the 10w30 on the shelf though... The parts guys stock it for their personal vehicles, so I had to ask.
I wish I have this price down here ..
So what engine speed do you run at? I suspect it only happens under load,like towing a trailer up a hill or lugging the engine in the wrong gear.
Cruisin'
Out in the shop, building something cool!
Yep... Just started. There are two reasons:
1: John of Radd Cruisers said this is the right stuff to use, and I trust his judgement
2: Toyota put a decal under the hood on the side of the air cleaner canister that says to use 10w30. It says lots of other stuff too, but its all in Japanese...
I had been using 15w40 for the first 2 years, but switched upon recieving this new information. Now I'm waiting for someone to tell me this is wrong. Down by the coast the weather is pretty moderate summer and winter, so I'm not switching weights for summer and winter.
Also as an aside, I'm thinking about switching to Rotella T6 Synthetic, and it seems to be available in 5w30 or 5w40, so I'm wondering which is closest to the 10w30 dino that Toyota specs.
Hmmm I just brought 10 4L jugs of Delo 15/40 back with me. Rotella was stupid cheap there as well.
2000 RPM is just about 86kph on my truck with 235/85R16 tires, so I try to stay just above 90 or around 80 when I want to hypermile for utmost economy...
I wish I had that Toyota white paper research document handy, it's buried somewhere on my older computer.
I remember the phenomenon was directly related to RPM, not at all caused by load (in other words it's not caused by oil being pushed out). It was caused by an acoustic harmonic amplification phenomenon that produced cavitation in the oil between bearing and crankshaft at 2000RPM, but wasn't present at other revolutions (although If my memory serves me right I believe there was a secondary, negligible spike at another RPM, just can't remember more about it now.
Although the 1HD-T engine was not specified by name in that paper, its specs were and it is definitely that engine (or the 1H-Z). I also remember that they came up with a solution which entailed machining a small partial grove in the bearing.
I'll take a shot of that sticker in the morning.
I am a bit shocked. I thought 10w/30 and 5w/30 was for cars.
My dad told me thats all they use on the coastguard generators.
That doesnt explain why 1HZ rarely suffers from bad BEB .Ive always beleved the 1HD T had more bad bearings because of the extra HP and the fact that people like to tow with them.
I did save that file but I fear its on the hard drive that went bad
20-50 is the recommended diesel oil in oz. Thats what Toyota Australia bottle up and sell at the dealer.
20W50 maybe in Oz...but that would turn into molasses here...lol.
That would not turn into molasses, that would be molasses
No kidding, I used that grade oil once many years ago when I had my first car... Nice and gooey, got sold by the 'racing' qualifier... But when we hit -20 a few weeks later, the engine simply refused to turn over in the morning!!!