Once again..debate on the right oil for 1HD-T and other old Toyota diesel engines.

[Cañonero]

Well, sometimes you don't need to be that tard to push the interval to that high mileage.

Last expedition trip I did in Africa we did 6.000 km in 9 days, and I plan to do a 20 days trip to Mali next summer (if terrorists let me, as the situation is getting very ugly down there, I knock on wood) and I'm planning to get close to 14.000 km. I won't feel like carrying 20 liters of oil and two filters and stop twice in the middle of the desert to change oil and leave it contaminating there.

 

[crushers]

my last long distance trip was 10,700 km though the states and back. i made a plan to stop and get the oil changed.
each to their own.

think of it this way, IF the oil does break down and your engine seizes how much harder is it to get the engine rebuilt in the middle of the desert vrs carrying some ol and a filter or two?

to me, i don't give a rat's ass what other people do. it isn't my truck, my engine or my money but i won't be recommending such a stunt to anyone.

cheers and peace
<and best of luck>

 

[Stone]

and, really, what have you seen first hand as the result of using oil for gas engines in diesels?...

but in reality, it is your truck and your oil. do what makes you happy and secure. me, it is 0/40 Rottella semi-synth for the winter months and 5/30 Rottella dino for the summer.

Actually, I'm not one of these "tards" who would bother to risk his diesel engine by using engine oils formulated for gasoline engines when diesel oils are so readily available. I can't think of one good reason to do that...maybe you can enlighten me. Why diesel oils are formulated the way they are has already been discussed in this thread.

You're right...it's my engine and it will continue to see Rotella or other oil of similar quality. Did I accidentally step on your alpha dog toes again?

 

[Cañonero]

In 14.000 km, I plan to change oil and filter once at 7.000-8000 with the Texaco Ursa Super TD 15W-40, but definetly not twice.

Come on, Texaco recomends this oil for oil change intervals of 45.000 km in big lorrys and buses, 7.000-8.000 km once a year can't do any harm.

And because it's an oil focused on the heavy industry, it's really cheap: just 66 EUROS for a 20 liters can. I'd pay 80 EUROS for 20 liters of plain 15W-40 car oil Castrol, that is nothing special and protects less than the Texaco. Then again, the cheapest 15W-40 I can get here is Cepsa Diesel, for 40 EUROS.

42 EUROS for the lowest range oil in the market vs 66 EUROS for a top quality SHPD oil. Maybe oil is oil, but for 12 extra EUROS each oil change I think the decision is clear.

 

[Splittilps]

When I first got my truck I used Rotella 15w40 and it was fine. The first long trip that we did (6000 km) I noticed that after 5000 it started to burn oil. I need to add about a liter before I got home. After this I decided to go with Amsoil 15w40 and I have not gone back. It gets changed every 10000 km with no adding in between changes. With the Rotella the first year it seamed that I was always adding some before I hit the 5000 mark and with the amsoil It is good until 10000 km but after that I don't push it.

Just my .02

Cheers

 

[crushers]

sorry guys, i am a bit testy right now so i apologize for my terminology. my personal life should not be carried over to the forum.

 

[canucksafari]

Come on, Texaco recomends this oil for oil change intervals of 45.000 km in big lorrys and buses, 7.000-8.000 km once a year can't do any harm.

You can compare vehicle oil change intervals on small diesel which have an oil sump of 7-11 liters with ones that have a sump of 30-40 liters. Commercial rigs here will go over 25,000 kms with Rotella 400 but I wouldn't recommend doing it with a small indirect injection diesel. As has been said, it ins't just a question of lube qualities but a question of how much soot it can take before it thickens.

 

[83bj60]

for others it is the infitestimal details of owning that bring happiness.

if i had to be that over concerned about vehicle maintainence then i would be walking.

Hey! Je me sens visé, pousse mais pousse égal!!!

To be honest, I'm far from that, although I tend to seem excessive... Heck I was too lazy (or too cheap) to change from winter to summers two winters ago and am running fine, thank you, all year long with my skinny truck blizzaks... Not sure that would qualify as being anal retentive about infinitesimal details, there is difference between what's best in principle and what's acceptable in reality... Heck, I'm still running with my plexiglass driver side window because I refuse to pay $275 for a piece of glass I can get for less than $150 at my dealer in the US!

 

[83bj60]

When I first got my truck I used Rotella 15w40 and it was fine. The first long trip that we did (6000 km) I noticed that after 5000 it started to burn oil. I need to add about a liter before I got home. After this I decided to go with Amsoil 15w40 and I have not gone back. It gets changed every 10000 km with no adding in between changes. With the Rotella the first year it seamed that I was always adding some before I hit the 5000 mark and with the amsoil It is good until 10000 km but after that I don't push it.

Just my .02

Cheers

You should try the test again, because it may have been due to minor glazing. I usually burn more oil with the dino Rotella, true, but the synthetic Rotella, much less. The most I've burned was using Mobil 1, a synthetic. So there. It depends on a lot of factors.

Making long highway speed runs has a tendency to really clean the engine out and improve fuel consumption and response, when compared to short 30km runs like I usually do in winter.

 

[Dauntless]

I should point out that I am currently looking into using Mann W940 filters in place of Ryco Z9. The Mann filters are around $20 compared to the $10 of the Ryco filters, but I think the result would be worth it.

 

[Cañonero]

I should point out that I am currently looking into using Mann W940 filters in place of Ryco Z9. The Mann filters are around $20 compared to the $10 of the Ryco filters, but I think the result would be worth it.

I've always used Mann filters in the Toyota (I don't know if W940 or what) and I was thinking into moving with the Toyota originals as everyone says they are the best. Do you think the Mann are comparable?. I can get the Mann for 1/2 the price of the Toyota.

 

[Cañonero]

Consumption figures:

248 km with three half an hours stops. Distance and speed measured with GPS:


45 % cruising on the highway at 115 km/h (max allowed by japanese cruise control), with a few moments at 120-130 for overtaking.

20% in an average two-way road at 60-80 km/h with a few overtakings at 100-110 (a couple of them pushing the pedal to the maximum).

10% of city driving.

25% in a very snowy mountain road, very slowly, in 2nd gear almost all the time, first a very steep uphill (from 400 to 1000 m. osl) then the same downhill.


Total consumption: 14.4 l/100.

The car has 285/75/16 BFG A/T tires on steel wheels, +8cm lift, snorkel, bullbar, automatic transmission. The pump is tweaked and it's a bit smokey.

Additional weight: aprox. 200 kg. (three people and some baggage).

83bj60, I don't know if this has to do with your bore glazing theory, but I decided to do what you suggested and drive it hard for a few thousand kilometers to see what happens with oil and fuel consumpion and....... Anyway, it seems like this little bastard likes to be pushed hard.

Since the last refill, I did 500 km, first 250 were 60% highway at 110 kph, 20% normal roads at a moderate speed and 20% city driving, but last 250 km, I pushed it really hard as I wanted to feel if there was any improvement after fitting the 3" exhaust (there is by the way): 80-120 kmh in two way roads, one mountain pass with the pedal to the maximum several times and 170 km of highway at 130-150 kph.

I went to refill after that (same method as before), and surprise!: 14,2 l/100. I was expecting minimum 17 l/100 after the first measurements.

So, either the first time the consumption got very high in the snow tracks (driving really slowly and not very thick snow layer, maybe 10-15 cm on the road) or this car goes against all physical laws and spends less fuel the faster and more agressive you drive.

 

[Splittilps]

83bj60,
Maybe I will try it again but I did use the Rotella for about 8 months and it seemed to always use oil. I only had the truck for about 3 months before we did the long trip, I stuck with the Rotella for a while after but it still burned. Switched to Amsoil and never burned a drop after that.

Thanks for the input
Cheers

 

[Splittilps]

one mountain pass with the pedal to the maximum several times and 170 km of highway at 130-150 kph.

Hope you have a Pyro. Even with my 3" exhaust, my temps climb quite high and fast with the pedal to the floor. If you do have a pryo what were your temps?

Cheers

 

[Cañonero]

No pyro yet, but will be installing it soon. Also the 4wdbits air to air intercooler.

 

[Dauntless]

I've always used Mann filters in the Toyota (I don't know if W940 or what) and I was thinking into moving with the Toyota originals as everyone says they are the best. Do you think the Mann are comparable?. I can get the Mann for 1/2 the price of the Toyota.

Mann manufacture OEM Volvo filters, so they should be at least as good as OEM Toyota filters. Would you be able to find out the Mann part number you use?

 

[Cañonero]

I won't be able till next week as my 80 is in the garage, but if you go to the Mann Spain online application guide they only have one filter available for the HZJ 80, HDJ80 12V, HDJ8024v and HDJ100: WP928/80

http://www.mann-hummel.com/mf_prodk...ktlg_01_fzart=1&ktlg_subpage=0&gobackToPage=1

 

[Tapage]

And because it's an oil focused on the heavy industry, it's really cheap: just 66 EUROS for a 20 liters can. I'd pay 80 EUROS for 20 liters of plain 15W-40 car oil Castrol, that is nothing special and protects less than the Texaco. .

interesting .. here and in my Books Castrol it's a better oil compared to Texaco .. ( and here Castrol it's more expensive too .. )

 

[Cañonero]

Sure, if you compare a SHPD+ Castrol with SHPD Texaco, but when I said plain 15W-40 Castrol, I was refering Castrol GTX 15W-40.

Texaco URSA Super TD 15W40: API CI-4/SL, ACEA: E7-04
Castrol GTX 15W-40: API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B3.

The lowest API rating existing in modern oils is the CF, the highest is the CI-4, so take your own conclusions. This Texaco is a light year above the Castrol GTX, but, I'll agree with you that Castrol would be better if comparing the same product ranges in both brands.

 

[ForealBoreal]

just recently noticed a small drop in my oil. I am going to inspect the turbo and add a catch can.

I would like to get an oil analysis done but I have no clue where to get one where I live.

I am curious for someone to compare Rotella T 15/40 with Chevron Delo 15/40 on the 1HD-T

John from radd cruisers swear by 10/40. I want to see in writing what the factory recommends for our 1HD-T