I also use Mobil Delvac MX 15w40 in my LN46. No issues.
I use Mobil Delvac MX 15w40 in my (petrol) Volvo car engines too. It performs very well, and definitely does keep the engine clean.
Once again..debate on the right oil for 1HD-T and other old Toyota diesel engines.
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I'm a bit spooked by the long service intervals some recomend.
One important job for the oil is to keep the inside of the engine clean. Use good oil, and change oil and filter often.
To compare what some makes do with new trucks and warranty is beside reality as I see it. At least as far as work trucks go. A new pickup truck sold as a worktruck to a mining company can use 12000 miles oil change intervals, no problem, because the abuse the truck sees makes it's lifespan relativly short. The truck itself will be beat up and worn out in a few years. While our old land cruisers are made to last, and with proper maintanence will outlast most other vehicles out there.
In Norway, where I live, we have mining companies that buy new Hilux diesels. Those I have seen has run about 30-60 000 km, but they are totaly banged up and destroyed in a few years. No reason to waste good oil too often on these ones, as they throw them away before the engine is worn out anyway.
I would keep to 5000 km intervals and a good quality oil. The cruisers deserve it!
One important job for the oil is to keep the inside of the engine clean. Use good oil, and change oil and filter often.
To compare what some makes do with new trucks and warranty is beside reality as I see it. At least as far as work trucks go. A new pickup truck sold as a worktruck to a mining company can use 12000 miles oil change intervals, no problem, because the abuse the truck sees makes it's lifespan relativly short. The truck itself will be beat up and worn out in a few years. While our old land cruisers are made to last, and with proper maintanence will outlast most other vehicles out there.
In Norway, where I live, we have mining companies that buy new Hilux diesels. Those I have seen has run about 30-60 000 km, but they are totaly banged up and destroyed in a few years. No reason to waste good oil too often on these ones, as they throw them away before the engine is worn out anyway.
I would keep to 5000 km intervals and a good quality oil. The cruisers deserve it!
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Cañonero, if you worry about glazing do as I did when I first got the truck: drive it fast and hard for a few months. You'll be surprised how well it works after that. Also driving it hot for an extend trip helps quite a bit. Your oil consumption will drop quite a bit after that!
As for oil consumption, running it hard after running it gently for a long time will usually get rid of bore glazing. The first oil change I used up one litre per 5,000 km, now its more like 1l per 10,000 km. Basically, I replace the oil when I'm down one liter.
There you have it... You just started another lubricating oil polemic
Great post and lots of usefull information.
I don't worry about bore glazing because I'm using some oil, just because I read in many places that the use SHPD oil can glaze the cylinders if the engine is driven so softly. Then after lots of reading the general consensus is that the glazing appears mainly during the break in period.
Anyway, what you mention is really interesting, I used 1 liter the first 5000 km of the last oil change also, I made another 2500 km since then and it seems like it hasn't used a drop, but I guess it's so hard to measure properly.
Now I will do my big end bearings (with ACL) and replace the oil with the mentioned Texaco Ursa SHPD 15W-40 Jaso aproved and see what happens.
Anyway, how did you find out your oil consumption was due to bore glazing?. There can be lots of more reasons, can't they?
As for calcium in the oil, I suposse the Jaso oils have a more adequate concentration of it, don't the?. Anyway, you also used the ACL bearings and it seems that with that bearings calcium in the oil shouldn't be a concern anymore.
By the way, the Texaco distributor told me that from now on the Jaso spec appearing in the label will be replaced with Global DHD-1 and that any oil with Global DHD-1 approval will meet Jaso as well.
PS: another FUN oil polemic.
PS 2: My HDJ81 is also from 1991 JDM, imported to England in 2005, so very close to yours in terms of bearings (I mean they started to use non Jaso oil at the same time), how good were your old bearings when you took them out, I can't find your post of the replacing.
All Chevron cardlocks sell Delo 400. It is their brand.
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AMSOIL
read the thread did not see anything about 100% synthetic AMSOIL, what is the though on that brand of oil, i just got 5 gallon on 15 - 40, API CJ4. i have a 12ht diesel engine. any though or experience with this product would be greatly appreciated.... thanks
read the thread did not see anything about 100% synthetic AMSOIL, what is the though on that brand of oil, i just got 5 gallon on 15 - 40, API CJ4. i have a 12ht diesel engine. any though or experience with this product would be greatly appreciated.... thanks
:whoops: Oops, my bad, that quote of mine you are commenting on should have been clearer, stating that the $3 premium is between the synthetic 5W40 and the 0W40 you are mentioning here, both are available, the 0W40 is $33.99 and the 5W40, $29.99. Sorry for the confusion. There is indeed a huge difference especially in really cold weather between the 5W40 (and possibly the 0W40 if I get any) and the standard 15W40.
I should add that I use good quality Ryco Z9 filters and change the oil and filter every 5000km.
Simply measuring oil consumption. When I got the truck it had less than 70,000km and I had all the bills. Most years it would be driven less than 4,000km, some years up to 7,000km, and I found some kawaguchi-ko official golf club letterheads under the rear seat, a wedding invitation with pictures and some japanese "chick" CDs in the CD changer it came with.
I then investigated where Kawaguchi was, 20km from Tokyo, knowing the truck was purchased at Tokyo Toyota and only had one owner, the low yearly mileage was consistent with short city driving and some weekend excursions o the golf course and the fact it has a stainless steel hitch, knowing the golf papers it wasn't a far cry to suppose its extent of wheeling had been to pull a golf cart on the golf range
In use, during the first 6 months or so, but especially during the first three, it felt very sluggish and I simply couldn't exceed 120 kph, and it used a lot more fuel than it is using now. Plus the fact it would burn one litre of oil every 5,000km whereas it burns half that now...
Indeed, that is one of their main characteristics. In North America oil detergents are mostly magnesium based, whereas they are calcium based in Japan. The configuration of the piston and combustion chamber in Japanese diesels of that vintage is the main reason for the difference in oil, if I remember correctly from my readings. There was this excellent article by a NZ engineer about it a few years ago when the BEB issue appeared and some of it was attributed to the difference in oils between Japan and the rest of the world and in particular, NZ and OZ.
As for the BEB pitting, AFAIK I'm the only one here who has ever mentioned that Toyota study that I found during my searches many years ago. it concluded that the 4.2 litre engine was in fact subject to bearing problems from acoustical causes, as cavitation would happen around 2000 RPM from harmonic (with minimal effects elsewhere on the RPM range). The solution from Toyota was to machine a small grove in their replacement bearings, but I used ACLs as their chemical composition makes them softer and less prone to bearing flaking that one sees in the OEM bearings.
That is correct, the DHD-1 supersedes the JASO DH-1 specification.
Hmmm... you'd have to go back two years, I've had my rig since November 2006 and did the BEB around late spring 2007, IIRC.
I'm in Québec, remember. Never seen any Chevron cardlocks here
Or maybe I don't come out enough of my boonies
I don't see how you will get lots of experience with dieselers here, its just too damn expensive. Last time I checked, about a year ago, it was a whopping $13 a liter... For an HDJ81 requiring 10-11 litres, with taxes that's over $150... A bit too rich for me!!!read the thread did not see anything about 100% synthetic AMSOIL, what is the though on that brand of oil, i just got 5 gallon on 15 - 40, API CJ4. i have a 12ht diesel engine. any though or experience with this product would be greatly appreciated.... thanks
oil is oil
it really doesn't matter as long as you change it and the filter every 5000 km
you asked.
it really doesn't matter as long as you change it and the filter every 5000 km
you asked.
Pass the salt shaker, please
I agree with crushers. There all pretty good out there.
if not get an oil test. Go from there. Do it 10 times if your so concerned. Then you will have a preference.
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Simply measuring oil consumption. When I got the truck it had less than 70,000km and I had all the bills. Most years it would be driven less than 4,000km, some years up to 7,000km, and I found some kawaguchi-ko official golf club letterheads under the rear seat, a wedding invitation with pictures and some japanese "chick" CDs in the CD changer it came with.
I then investigated where Kawaguchi was, 20km from Tokyo, knowing the truck was purchased at Tokyo Toyota and only had one owner, the low yearly mileage was consistent with short city driving and some weekend excursions o the golf course and the fact it has a stainless steel hitch, knowing the golf papers it wasn't a far cry to suppose its extent of wheeling had been to pull a golf cart on the golf range
That's the funniest bore glazing thesis I ever heard of!. It makes sense though.
I just know about my previous owner that his year mileage was too low, about 5000 km. Mine is not much higher, about 8000 km a year. I usually drive it in an average way, more on the gently side, but when I go on expedition I really push it hard.
Mine drinks a bit too. But it's not that slugish, not specially fast also. It gets and holds 120 kph easily, but it takes it a world to keep on accelerating after 140. Changing from 32x11.5x15 tires with aluminium wheels to 285/75/16 steel wheels hurted the performance noticiably.
Consumption figures:
248 km with three half an hours stops. Distance and speed measured with GPS:
45 % cruising on the highway at 115 km/h (max allowed by japanese cruise control), with a few moments at 120-130 for overtaking.
20% in an average two-way road at 60-80 km/h with a few overtakings at 100-110 (a couple of them pushing the pedal to the maximum).
10% of city driving.
25% in a very snowy mountain road, very slowly, in 2nd gear almost all the time, first a very steep uphill (from 400 to 1000 m. osl) then the same downhill.
Total consumption: 14.4 l/100.
The car has 285/75/16 BFG A/T tires on steel wheels, +8cm lift, snorkel, bullbar, automatic transmission. The pump is tweaked and it's a bit smokey.
Additional weight: aprox. 200 kg. (three people and some baggage).
Weight doesn't do much under most circumstances. Tires do! I have 235/85/16 and I love them. Toughest tires I ever had, although after about 45,000 km they are starting to wear out now (Bridgestone Bizzaks, 8 ply truck tires, W95 IIRC, now discontinued).
These tires don't have the perfect grip you'll wish you had one day out of every winter, but this is easily offset by the toughness and durability of the tread and its already excellent grip (how about pulling a car out of a snow bank, uphill on a 17% slope, in 10 inches of granular snow? How about pulling a Dodge Ram Full Size Pickup out of a ditch in summer, with its rear axle floating in the air and the driver 'helping' by gunning the thing in reverse while you are pulling him out forward)
In other words a narrow tire on a non lifted truck will help a lot getting your fuel consumption figures down!!!
These tires don't have the perfect grip you'll wish you had one day out of every winter, but this is easily offset by the toughness and durability of the tread and its already excellent grip (how about pulling a car out of a snow bank, uphill on a 17% slope, in 10 inches of granular snow? How about pulling a Dodge Ram Full Size Pickup out of a ditch in summer, with its rear axle floating in the air and the driver 'helping' by gunning the thing in reverse while you are pulling him out forward)
In other words a narrow tire on a non lifted truck will help a lot getting your fuel consumption figures down!!!
wide or narrow, no traction = no action.
i usually run skinnies but sometimes fats.
the skinnies DO increase the fuel mileage (less foot print = less rolling resistance).
i run ice radials in the winter and what ever tire i have in the pile in the summer.
you guys really concern yourselves with the little things. i guess it comes down to what brings someone happiness, for me it is the driving. for others it is the infitestimal details of owning that bring happiness.
if i had to be that over concerned about vehicle maintainence then i would be walking.
i usually run skinnies but sometimes fats.
the skinnies DO increase the fuel mileage (less foot print = less rolling resistance).
i run ice radials in the winter and what ever tire i have in the pile in the summer.
you guys really concern yourselves with the little things. i guess it comes down to what brings someone happiness, for me it is the driving. for others it is the infitestimal details of owning that bring happiness.
if i had to be that over concerned about vehicle maintainence then i would be walking.
Maybe...if you're talking between brands...but "oil is not oil" when it comes to application. You still need to make sure whatever oil you use us appropriate for diesel application.
and, really, what have you seen first hand as the result of using oil for gas engines in diesels?
now if you are one of these tards that love to keep pushing the intervals to 10K, 15K, 20K then it will be more important but at 5K intervals? nothing i have seen.
even one of the long time "die hard" geeks in Calgary finally admitted that oil is oil, change it often and it doesn't matter.
but in reality, it is your truck and your oil. do what makes you happy and secure. me, it is 0/40 Rottella semi-synth for the winter months and 5/30 Rottella dino for the summer.
now if you are one of these tards that love to keep pushing the intervals to 10K, 15K, 20K then it will be more important but at 5K intervals? nothing i have seen.
even one of the long time "die hard" geeks in Calgary finally admitted that oil is oil, change it often and it doesn't matter.
but in reality, it is your truck and your oil. do what makes you happy and secure. me, it is 0/40 Rottella semi-synth for the winter months and 5/30 Rottella dino for the summer.