Once again..debate on the right oil for 1HD-T and other old Toyota diesel engines.

[jasonmt]

Hey jasonmt, sorry my bad... Severe duty is 5000 km, but regular use is 10,000 km...

this is straight from Fords web site...

Limited Maintenance Plan (LMP)

The LMP covers the following regular maintenance services:

* Engine oil and filter changes
* Multi-point inspection
* Tire rotation
* Roadside assistance
* Emergency maintenance services including flat tire change, fuel delivery, and battery jump start
* Lockout assistance
* No charge towing to the nearest Ford or Ford-Lincoln dealer

Eligible vehicles include current and eight prior year models with fewer than 160,000 km. Consult your dealer regarding complete vehicle eligibility. The Limited Maintenance Plan cannot be cancelled or transferred.

Choose a plan length based on your driving habits. For normal driving conditions, choose a normal maintenance schedule (every 6 months/10,000 kilometres). For more intense driving conditions, take advantage of our Special Operating Conditions schedule (every 3 months/5,000 kilometres).



If your not getting this service included in purchase price, you should be, all the fleets I know do.....

LMP and FMPP are prepaid maintenance plans, IE not included in the base purchase price of the vehicle. The basic warranty covers everything that LMP does with the exception of the first three items on the LMP list anyways and if you price out the LMP plan those are some expensive oil changes.

 

[rockcrawler]

I like to do an oil/filter change every 5K, that's what I was taught as optimum and old habits are hard to break even if with todays oil technology this may be a bit overboard. And anyway, it gives me something to get my hands dirty on when I'm not doing a build on an old cruiser
Here's an interesting read I found a while ago regarding engine oils and lubrication.
Motor Oils and Engine Lubrication Book: Motor Oil Engineers

 

[Cancruiser]

First Choice: Chevron Delo 15W40 (Summer) and Synth 5W40 (Winter)
Second Choice: Rotella 15W40 (Summer) and Synthetic Blend 5W40 (Winter)

P.S. Bear in mind that Canadian winters are quite harsh, at your location, the summer oil will probably be sufficient year around

Been driving 20,000 km so far and never a drop of oil is burned..

BTW, the ONLY oil I found that mentions compatibility with Jaso DH specs is Chevron Delo. here:
https://www.cbest.chevron.com/generated/MSDS/PDS7668691.PDF

 

[onefsatchevy]

Not comparing new fords to old Toyotas, just interesting thought on oil... and jasonmt, as far as I know the guys doing the fleets are getting this thrown in at no cost, but they are also buying 10 to 20 or more trucks a year. I can't speak from personal experience, as I have never and will never (unless something dramatic happens) buy a Ford....

 

[roscoFJ73]

I
Here's an interesting read I found a while ago regarding engine oils and lubrication.
Motor Oils and Engine Lubrication Book: Motor Oil Engineers

Its an intersting read so far,as long as he doesnt spring on me some magic oil potion at the end of the story

 

[rockcrawler]

No he actually says additives are useless. He does state his favorite brand of oil though but gives the exact reasons why. Yep, an interesting read.

 

[hedydd]

I have been using SHPD oils in SUV's for more than 20 years. Yes, that's right, 20 years. The original SHPD specification was CCMC D5 later renamed to ACEA E2 I think. For many years now I have used the next performance level of ACEA E3 which is near identical to MB228.3 and indeed the more recent API CH4 which is where the API tries catching up with European performance standards.
I've never had a problem with SHPD oils and can confirm that the superior detergency and dispersant properties [for soot handling] and the very superior viscosity shear stability of ACEA E3 and API CH4 or better oil is well worth having and demonstrable in some highly stressed engines.

In the Land Cruiser I used ACEA E3 oil for many years while extending the interval from the recomended original of 4500 miles to 6000 miles. I'm sure the oil and engine would be fine using this oil to 10,000 miles.
However since about 70,000 miles I have used UHPD [ultra high performance diesel] oil with a change interval of 10,000 miles. I'm equally sure that this oil would be good for 15,000 miles with an intermediate filter change and much much longer with finer filtration still, as 100,000 mile oil change intervals are possible with heavy trucks using this oil with fine bi-pass filtration. The performance specification of this UHPD exceeds ACEA E5 and MB 228.5 and their emissionised equivilents, my particular choice being low SAPS and suitable for level IV and V low emission engines.

Here are some oils meeting 228.5
Aral MegaTurboral 10W-40
Castrol Dynamax 10W-40
Castrol Elixion SAE 0W-30
Castrol Enduron SAE 10W-40
Castrol Enduron Plus SAE 5W-40
Chevron Delo® XLD Multigrade 10W-40
Elf Performance Experty 10W-40
Fuchs TITAN CARGO SL SAE 5W-30
Fuchs Titan Cargo 10W-40
Hunold Multicargo 10W-40
Liqui Moly LKW Langzeit Motoröl 10W-40
Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40
Mobil Delvac 1 SHC 5W-40
Mobil Delvac XHP Extra 10W-40
Mobil Delvac XHP Ultra 5W-30
Quaker State Synquest Diesel 10W-40
Shell Rimula Ultra 10W-40
Shell Rimula Ultra 5W-30
Ursa Premium FE 5W-30
Ursa Super TDX 10W-40
Ursa TDX 10W-40
Valvoline ProFleet 10W-40
Valvoline ProFleet Extra 5W-30

Here are some that meet emissionised 228.51

AGIP Sigma UltraPlus TFE 10W-10
BP Vanellus Eco 10W-40
BP Vanellus Max Drain Eco 10W-40
Castrol Elixion Low SAPS 5W-30
Castrol Enduron Euro 4 Low SAPS SAE 10W-40
Fuchs TITAN CARGO MAXX SAE 10W-40
Kuwait Petroleum Q8 T 900 10W-40
Liqui Moly Top Tec Truck 4050 10W-40
Liqui Moly Truck-Nachfüll-Öl 10W-40
MB 228.51 Motorenöl A 000 989 91 01 Granat 10W-40
MB 228.51 Motorenöl A 000 989 94 01 10W-40
megol Motorenoel Low SAPS SAE 10W-40
Mobil Delvac 1 LE 5W-30
Mobil Delvac XHP LE Extra 10W-40
Motorex Focus 4 SAE 10W-40 LOW SAPS
OMV truck blue SAE 10W-40
Pentosin Diesel 10W-40 LA
Shell Rimula Signia 10W-40 (MB 228.51)
Texaco Ursa Ultra 10W-40
Valvoline ProFleet LS SAE 10W-40

My personal choices are Fuchs Titan Cargo 1040 and Morris Ring Free Ultra 10w/40

 

[thebeast]

any thing good for you? ki....i

Kijiji : Poster's Ads.

 

[Stone]

I've just switched over to Shell Rotella T SB 0/40 synthetic. It's interesting to note that out of all thegrades in the SB lineup, the only full synthetic is the 0/40...the others are synthetic blends.

I'm very happy with the Rotella 0/40...it flows really quickly at cooler startups, and I barely hear any valve clatter during startup now. I notice that unlike the Exxon XD3 synthetic 0/40 that I previously tried, the pressure readings when cold and warm mimic the dino 15/40 a lot closer. The cost of Rotella SB 0/40 is around $30 CAD/4L here, and that puts it on the less expensive side of synthetics compared to Mobil1, Amsoil, and Lucas.

I think I'll continue to use Rotella 15/40 during the Summer and Fall, and use the synthetic 0/40 in the winter and spring.

 

[canucksafari]

I'm very happy with the Rotella 0/40...it flows really quickly at cooler startups, and I barely hear any valve clatter during startup now. I notice that unlike the Exxon XD3 synthetic 0/40 that I previously tried, the pressure readings when cold and warm mimic the dino 15/40 a lot closer. The cost of Rotella SB 0/40 is around $30 CAD/4L here, and that puts it on the less expensive side of synthetics compared to Mobil1, Amsoil, and Lucas.

That's good to hear. I never liked the lower pressure reading when i used the Esso Synthetic. I might give it a try next winter. Where are you buying it at? This winter, it is plain old Delo 400 10W40. This year,it hasn't been cold enough in Southern BC to have any issue with this mineral oil. The coldest I've had this year to start at is about -17C.

 

[Stone]

That's good to hear. I never liked the lower pressure reading when i used the Esso Synthetic. I might give it a try next winter. Where are you buying it at? This winter, it is plain old Delo 400 10W40. This year,it hasn't been cold enough in Southern BC to have any issue with this mineral oil. The coldest I've had this year to start at is about -17C.

I had to buy it at the Crappy Tire in Abbotsford, actually...went to all the ones in Surrey and Langley, and they only had the Rotella dino. I swapped over to synthetic because I was supposed to be up by Sheridan Lake/Bridge Lake right now...instead I fell through the crawlspace hole and buggered up my right knee on New Years Eve...lol.

And no...this Asian guy didn't even need any alcohol to pull off that dumb ass move.

 

[canucksafari]

Why did you cancel your trip... I though ice was good for knee injuries. Guess you needed a driver to get you there. Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

Thanks for the tip. I'll have a look at Truck Tech as well for it. Sometimes they have better prices on oil than Cr@appy Tire or Wally Mart. I picked up the last bucket of Delo 400 from them for $72.00. I think it is a good time to buy oil in the next 3-5 months. If the economic recovery continues, all petrolium products are going to shoot up in price by the time the summer driving season starts.

 

[Petzel]

Stone, Canucksafari, I distribute Shell oil in Chilliwack and can bring in the semi synthetic Rotella T5 or synthetic Rotella T6(Shells new product identity in October) and can give you Cruiserguy pricing. Also carry Donaldson filters.... PM me for contact info.

 

[83bj60]

I wouldn't worry about the finding Japanese spec for the oil as long as it as the oil has a CF or higher rating. C means Diesel and The second letter is the rating, the higher then letter the better the lab test rating.

I disagree, the higher rating is not necessarily better for your older engine. They have been reducing calcium in diesel engine oils for some time now for pollution control issues and this is bad for our engine bearings.

Toyota diesels of our vintage don't have wear problems with the bore as much as bearing issues, and this is caused by low calcium oil formulation, the use in the OEM engines of aluminum bearings instead of tin/lead and the fact that the 1HD-T engine has a harmonic vibration spike at 2000 RPM that has a tendency to destroy bearings, especially brittle aluminum based ones, by cavitation.

Cañonero, if you worry about glazing do as I did when I first got the truck: drive it fast and hard for a few months. You'll be surprised how well it works after that. Also driving it hot for an extend trip helps quite a bit. Your oil consumption will drop quite a bit after that!

I use Rotella-T 15W40 (not Jaso rated) and have had a 3B that still runs after 700,000 km (the truck is now retired) and it has seen 15W-40 Rotella-T summer as well as winter. That 'conventional' oil is actually flows better than some synthetics in winter!

For my 1HD-T, I upgraded to synthetic Rotella-T 5W40 for winter, and use the 15W for the rest of the year. Also since I got the truck, my oil changes have been extended to an average 12,000km. Seat-of-the-pants wise, the oil feels great much longer than on my old 3B where i could feel a difference after 5,000 km.

With this engine and oil filter (the OEM Toyota filter is dual-cartridge / dual stage internally), it feels perfect for a good 10,000 to 15,000 km. You start feeling the noise and lower performance past that. Also this engine /oil filter doesn't turn the oil black like the old 3B and I haven't noticed any oil thickening until 20,000km (yes, I did go that high with my oil change in my second year, but I racked up 45,000 km that year).

With the dino oil, I do notice some "degradation" (feeling wise) earlier.

As for oil consumption, running it hard after running it gently for a long time will usually get rid of bore glazing. The first oil change I used up one litre per 5,000 km, now its more like 1l per 10,000 km. Basically, I replace the oil when I'm down one liter .

I also use additives under some circumstances. I add CD-2 MAXX engine detergent if I intend to stretch the oil change interval (I got a lot of old-stock, high-calcium CD2-MAXX before they changed their formulation to comply with the new emission control diesel's requirements that came out in 2007). In summer in very hot weather (which is almost never where I live), if I have to extend the oil change interval I will add some Bardahl 'No-Smoke' on top of the CD2-MAXX as it does quiet the engine a bit, especially if I'm going for an extend trip.

There you have it... You just started another lubricating oil polemic

 

[83bj60]

In Canada, this is the only oil which has the JASO DH-1 rating [chevron delo 15W40]. The thing which makes this different is the calcium ppm.

I'm in Québec and I have never seen this oil anywhere. I sure wish I could try a batch... Here most dieselers use Rotella-T, it's the only stuff available at the truck stops I go to. I top up my calcium when extending oil change intervals and in winter adding old formulation (pre-2007) CD2-MAXX.

 

[83bj60]

I've just switched over to Shell Rotella T SB 0/40 synthetic. It's interesting to note that out of all thegrades in the SB lineup, the only full synthetic is the 0/40...the others are synthetic blends.

Interesting, as there is a $3 premium in Canada per 4l for the 0w40 (it's about $33.99 where I am at crappy tire). In any case, Shell's conventional Rotella use very quality base oils and it's been said that their base is very close in performance to that of full synthetics.

 

[83bj60]

I agree that changing the oil every 3000 km with this high quality oils may be excesive. The Texaco dealer I talked to told me that this oil is used by some of his customers in big trucks with drain intervals of 50.000 km without problems. Of course you can't compare a 18 liter big truck diesel engine with ours, but again 3000 km seems like too often.

Indeed, but remember big trucks often have secondary stage filters and or remove filters more frequently and hardly ever run cold so oils don't get contaminated much.

I've been told that fully synthetic will increase oil consumption in these old engines as it's thinner, but the theory is that, when hot, a 15-40 will be exactly as thin as a 5-40, isn't it?

Yes, to some extent (depending on brands) but as the oil wears out, its additive package wears and the oil will perform more closely to its base specifications (ie in most case, a thinner grade, but in some cases, a thicker grade). Also some base stocks (such as Mobil-1) burn off much more readily (=higher oil consumption) than, say, Rotella synthetic (my experience)

 

[canucksafari]

Stone, Canucksafari, I distribute Shell oil in Chilliwack and can bring in the semi synthetic Rotella T5 or synthetic Rotella T6(Shells new product identity in October) and can give you Cruiserguy pricing. Also carry Donaldson filters.... PM me for contact info.

PM sent. Thanks.

 

[Stone]

Stone, Canucksafari, I distribute Shell oil in Chilliwack and can bring in the semi synthetic Rotella T5 or synthetic Rotella T6(Shells new product identity in October) and can give you Cruiserguy pricing. Also carry Donaldson filters.... PM me for contact info.

PM sent!

 

[Stone]

Interesting, as there is a $3 premium in Canada per 4l for the 0w40 (it's about $33.99 where I am at crappy tire). In any case, Shell's conventional Rotella use very quality base oils and it's been said that their base is very close in performance to that of full synthetics.

From Shell's own data sheet:

Rotella T dino 15/40: Pour point - (-36*C), Viscosity index - 141, Viscosity - 118@40*C, 15.7@100*C.

Rotella SB synth 0/40: Pour point - (-48*C), Viscosity index - 182, Viscosity - 86.2@40*C, 14.9@100*C.

As I stated in my previous post, for some reason, in the Rotella T SB lineup, the 0/40 is 100% Synthetic, but the 0/30, 5/30, and 10/40 are all Synthetic Blend.

From a purely subjective point of view, the performance of the fully synthetic 0/40 seems to be much better than the conventional 15/40 just by listening to how much valve clatter I hear when I first start up the engine after a cold night. I think this is because it takes much longer for the conventional oil to circulate in adequate amounts to those parts in the upper part of the engine compared to the synthetic. The numbers above also shows a difference, and even in ambient temperatures just above freezing, the stuff that came out of my crankcase was pretty thick...granted it was time for an oil change then.