Build OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77

[JDM Journeys]

Three smokeless cold starts in a row this week, so this one is in the books. Ambient temperatures were somewhere around five to seven degrees celsius. I'm sure I will see a little smoke as the temperature drop, but I'm hoping the temperatures are not going to drop now until the fall? But this is Alberta so..

All these starts have been a double glow with long duration, so I'm planning on refreshing my glow system a little bit as well. I'm sure I can get it a little hotter?

Thanks to all who have chimed in over the last few months as I tried to get this sorted. Really helps to have buddies to look over your shoulder, even if it's virtually. You guys are the best. Maybe now I can get my interior camping setup reinstated? I'm also thinking about backing my timing off a smidge as well, since I had to advance it to lessen the smoke earlier.

 

[jayp2]

I did have a look inside that captive part under the body plug near the LHS corner. No problems in there either. Bottoms of doors are good, rockers are good (save one small blister). The seam sealer behind the tail lights was starting to perish, and a little surface rust behind on one side. Seam sealer at the drip rails is intact. I also inspected the rear walls from the inside out, after I pulled the inner cards in the back. No rust beyond the perished quarters, thankfully. Floor is good under the carpet, front and rear.

If this truck had no factory flares on it, I'm pretty sure it'd still be fully intact. Although it also would've been more expensive, so... ?

Back to the build!

I pulled the aftermarket deck that had been installed, and found that somewhere along the lines, the factory harness had been cut, and this headunit had simply been grafted in.
View attachment 2496396

No good. I removed the mess, and then soldered/heat shrank a reverse Toyota factory harness double plug. Then I repeated the process with the female end on my new Android Auto's harness, so if an update is ever needed, a toyota harness will work like it should.

View attachment 2496397

Do you recall if factory power feed to the stereo is 12v or 24v on the early 77 JDM's?

 

[JDM Journeys]

Do you recall if factory power feed to the stereo is 12v or 24v on the early 77 JDM's?

All the ones I've seen are 12v. There's a magic box under the dash.

I'm guessing if you have an auto trans, some of the (black) magic spills out into that as well, because how else would it shift all by itself? Pure witchcraft.

Sorry. I digress. 12v for the head unit. Confirm with A Voltmeter though. Because you know... MAGIC.

 

[JDM Journeys]

So I tried an ammo box. The height is good. But it looks a little too redneck imho. But it did allow me to figure out sizing etc. I now have one on the way from bulgaria. Reviews are mixed but it wasn't terribly expensive so even if it needs modifying, it might be worth it?

If it is a good fit I'll post up the particulars of where to get it etc.

 

[JDM Journeys]

So today was the day when I got to see how well I did the a/c retrofit. The whole retrofit started back in January when I swapped in a complete system from a 97, and can be reviewed here:

Build - OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77

In any event, with my chart of values in hand, thoughtfully provided by @ATL Cruiser , I went to my automotive a/c pro. He vacuumed the system, then did a rigorous 10 min pressure test (sort of a reverse pressure since it was under vacuum?). Anyway. He was happy with what the gauges told him and then asked me to start it up and the regas commenced...

Almost immediately the a/c high idle kicked in. He nodded and filled up the system. Also put in oil for the compressor. He was quite impressed with the robustness of the system and said it was a/c fit for driving in Africa.

Cold cold cold a/c. Oh how I've needed you in this greenhouse.

Edit: I should add that this truck has never had functional AC since I've owned it. But it sure is nice to turn that secondary knob and suddenly cold air is blowing out of the vents.

This one is in the books! Woohoo!

 

[Felde]

Welcome to the club of cool, chilled people in Landcruisers with revived, refitted A/C. It's trending

 

[sleepydad69]

So today was the day when I got to see how well I did the a/c retrofit. The whole retrofit started back in January when I swapped in a complete system from a 97, and can be reviewed here:

Build - OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77

In any event, with my chart of values in hand, thoughtfully provided by @ATL Cruiser , I went to my automotive a/c pro. He vacuumed the system, then did a rigorous 10 min pressure test (sort of a reverse pressure since it was under vacuum?). Anyway. He was happy with what the gauges told him and then asked me to start it up and the regas commenced...
View attachment 3316359

Almost immediately the a/c high idle kicked in. He nodded and filled up the system. Also put in oil for the compressor. He was quite impressed with the robustness of the system and said it was a/c fit for driving in Africa.

Cold cold cold a/c. Oh how I've needed you in this greenhouse.

Edit: I should add that this truck has never had functional AC since I've owned it. But it sure is nice to turn that secondary knob and suddenly cold air is blowing out of the vents.

This one is in the books! Woohoo!

hey offhand do you know the specs for the oil and capacity? pag46 oil 6-9 oz?

 

[JDM Journeys]

hey offhand do you know the specs for the oil and capacity? pag46 oil 6-9 oz?

@ATL Cruiser posted this for me a few months back, and my a/c guy used it as a guide... It was some sort of dyed PAG but I'm not sure of the number.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

@ATL Cruiser posted this for me a few months back, and my a/c guy used it as a guide... It was some sort of dyed PAG but I'm not sure of the number.
View attachment 3316834

Correct. When the old service manuals stated freon capacity, they were referring to R12. My above calculation converts R12 to R134a, which is what every car uses until 2017 (we're on R1234yf now after that point).

The total PAG oil is for a completely new system with zero oil in anything. If you're only replacing one component (like a compressor), it would be a lot less.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Correct. When the old service manuals stated freon capacity, they were referring to R12. My above calculation converts R12 to R134a, which is what every car uses until 2017 (we're on R1234yf now after that point).

The total PAG oil is for a completely new system with zero oil in anything. If you're only replacing one component (like a compressor), it would be a lot less.

Yep. And mine was completely apart, from the compressor, all the way though the lines, the condenser and the box under the dash. For a simple recharge I'd only have gotten a top up.

 

[sleepydad69]

Yep. And mine was completely apart, from the compressor, all the way though the lines, the condenser and the box under the dash. For a simple recharge I'd only have gotten a top up.

I tried mine for the first time and it's not cold at all... not surprised. I will pull a vacuum on it and see what happens, maybe I will just try a re-charge if it holds a vacuum.

 

[JDM Journeys]

I tried mine for the first time and it's not cold at all... not surprised. I will pull a vacuum on it and see what happens, maybe I will just try a re-charge if it holds a vacuum.

A universal o-ring kit was useful when I retrofitted the system from the donor truck. My a/c guy used oil that's UV visible so any future leaks might be easier to find. Perhaps you can add some if it doesn't hold vacuum. But I'm sure you are miles ahead of me on this.

 

[sleepydad69]

A universal o-ring kit was useful when I retrofitted the system from the donor truck. My a/c guy used oil that's UV visible so any future leaks might be easier to find. Perhaps you can add some if it doesn't hold vacuum. But I'm sure you are miles ahead of me on this.

I have 100% re-done a couple of T4R so...

I'm going to be taking out the windshield fairy soon so I guess I should probably just plan on taking out the dash and cleaning out all the gunk. I'm sure it's a nasty mess. cleaning out the entire system would be the best way for sure. There is nothing like that crisp cool air on 90 deg days

 

[JDM Journeys]

My first fuel return is in since swapping in the reconditioned pump and evacuating the air/ fixing fuel tank. 11.8 l per 100 km. Not bad at all I don't think… at actual speed limits (if not a little more) on 33s.

Also today I ordered a wheelskins steering wheel cover. It's about time this old girl got some class on her wheel. All indications are that the later 60 series wheel is the same size, so that's the one I ordered. I believe it's designation is bx? I'll report back once I have it.

 

[jayp2]

My first fuel return is in since swapping in the reconditioned pump and evacuating the air/ fixing fuel tank. 11.8 l per 100 km. Not bad at all I don't think… at actual speed limits (if not a little more) on 33s.

Also today I ordered a wheelskins steering wheel cover. It's about time this old girl got some class on her wheel. All indications are that the later 60 series wheel is the same size, so that's the one I ordered. I believe it's designation is bx? I'll report back once I have it

That works out to about 21 MPG if my math is correct

That doesn't suck for a vehicle that has the aerodynamics of a mid 80's volvo wagon on 33" tires while dragging an open parachute.

Thats whatt my current gen gas 4runner gets on stock rubber.....

I had an early 80's toyota pickup lb extra cab 4x4 with a 22R (E?) motor in it that used to get 25mpg all day/every day....wish I had never sold it.

 

[Blomdala]

My first fuel return is in since swapping in the reconditioned pump and evacuating the air/ fixing fuel tank. 11.8 l per 100 km. Not bad at all I don't think… at actual speed limits (if not a little more) on 33s.

Also today I ordered a wheelskins steering wheel cover. It's about time this old girl got some class on her wheel. All indications are that the later 60 series wheel is the same size, so that's the one I ordered. I believe it's designation is bx? I'll report back once I have it.

I think the size and splines are about the same as any 4Runner and pick up from the 90s. Same 17mm nut to hold it on atleast lol.

 

[Rigster]

My first fuel return is in since swapping in the reconditioned pump and evacuating the air/ fixing fuel tank. 11.8 l per 100 km. Not bad at all I don't think… at actual speed limits (if not a little more) on 33s.

Also today I ordered a wheelskins steering wheel cover. It's about time this old girl got some class on her wheel. All indications are that the later 60 series wheel is the same size, so that's the one I ordered. I believe it's designation is bx? I'll report back once I have it.

That's impressive that you managed to only drive your land cruiser downhill! You will have to show me that trick, it would be really handy here in BC, lol.

Seriously though Phil, that's awesome milage. I was just noting on the weekend that I must have run my first tank of summer diesel because I managed 550km on the last tank which worked out to about 13.5L/100km. Maybe that works out similar, with my 35's and a few extra hills?

 

[JDM Journeys]

Well, my a/c was short lived. Started hearing chirping sounds on the way home. Then a horrible screeching noise. Shut it off and when I got home the clutch can be barely turned by hand when the truck is off. So the old compressor that I retrofitted was likely not as great as I thought. Now have a new one ordered from @Radd Cruisers as well as a new dryer. Fingers crossed that this is the last time for a long time I'll have to go back in. Still need evac and refill before fitting new clutch. ARGGGG.

 

[sleepydad69]

Well, my a/c was short lived. Started hearing chirping sounds on the way home. Then a horrible screeching noise. Shut it off and when I got home the clutch can be barely turned by hand when the truck is off. So the old compressor that I retrofitted was likely not as great as I thought. Now have a new one ordered from @Radd Cruisers as well as a new dryer. Fingers crossed that this is the last time for a long time I'll have to go back in. Still need evac and refill before fitting new clutch. ARGGGG.

I tried to re-build the clutch/stator one time... mixed results. would not recommend.

 

[JDM Journeys]

I tried to re-build the clutch/stator one time... mixed results. would not recommend.

Yeah I had temporary delusions of grandeur, and then saw a stat that 50% of compressor rebuilds ended in leaks... Plus I found one for $469 of my weaksauce CAD dollars in the province next door, so it seemed dumb to attempt a doomed rebuild.

It's possible that the entire system got contaminated by compressor shrapnel, but...

Pressures were good last weekend before it seized. And I can turn the clutch by hand. There is a lot of resistance though, which seems to be consistent throughout the rotation.. so my working theory is that the bearing inside failed? It was oiled properly when recharged. And I'm not seeing any signs of leakage.

Finally, despite being barely able to turn the compressor over, amid horrible belt squeal, it still produces cold air.

Just in case, I'll replace the filter/dryer and maybe blow out the lines? Perhaps someone can light a candle or burn some incense for the condenser?

For the record. I've had this entire system apart, but if you've just joined us, don't assume I have any idea what I'm doing. Although that sentiment applies to this entire thread...