Official 37" and up picture thread (7 Viewers)

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Milestar 38x17x13.50
Icon Rebound Pro 17x8.5 +0
Spidertrax 1.5" spacers
RAM mounts from eimkeith
Panhard drop from eimkeith
3.5" dobinsons VT + IMS

Might deflare it, but no issues with ripping them off...yet.
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More pics, including the those long Dobinsons VT coils with no coil bow at 5.5” of lift and proper driveshaft angle/caster. Third pic is just a little BFH hammer coaxing so the inner fender is angled for no rubbing at full crank including off-road. There’s nothing but air back there so that’s about as easy as it gets.

As far as I’m concerned, this is about as perfect a ’don’t hack it up’ setup as you can build. I‘m not doing 40’s because I hate the front fender chop, and the Patagonia is the best tire out there anyway if you keep it on a narrower rim so it’s only running on the inner 8” or so of tread. Quiet, smooth, awesome traction, excellent snow tire. And cheap. There is no way I could fit a squared off 38”, I barely have more trimming than I needed for tiny 37” ko2’s.

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Looking into a similar route. I also love the patagonias, plus they can be had for very cheap on marketplace.

So you said 5.5" of lift, but those dobinsons are advertised as 3.5". Is that because you're light and that is an actual before and after measurement from old worn out stock springs?
 
39" Mud Hogs on walker Evens bead Locks. Took a lot to make them work !

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Looking into a similar route. I also love the patagonias, plus they can be had for very cheap on marketplace.

So you said 5.5" of lift, but those dobinsons are advertised as 3.5". Is that because you're light and that is an actual before and after measurement from old worn out stock springs?
It’s because Dobinsons is rating these coils for use with heavy accessory load (full bumpers, etc.). I think you’d be very hard pressed to get them to 3.5” and it’s just more coil than advertised. On my rig it was a full inch over the 4” flexy Dobinsons and I was 4.5” on that setup. I had to adjust pinion angle alignment front and rear and went to a bit longer shocks accordingly. The stability of this coil is exceptional and they ride great on a lighter rig since they are dual rate - there is no issue with the coil being too ‘heavy’.

Noting I carry a 38” spare in the cargo area, tools, and spare axles so there’s some weight back there.
 
It’s because Dobinsons is rating these coils for use with heavy accessory load (full bumpers, etc.). I think you’d be very hard pressed to get them to 3.5” and it’s just more coil than advertised. On my rig it was a full inch over the 4” flexy Dobinsons and I was 4.5” on that setup. I had to adjust pinion angle alignment front and rear and went to a bit longer shocks accordingly. The stability of this coil is exceptional and they ride great on a lighter rig since they are dual rate - there is no issue with the coil being too ‘heavy’.

Noting I carry a 38” spare in the cargo area, tools, and spare axles so there’s some weight back there.
About what I figured. Plan is to run the 2.5 variables and stuff tires. Same shocks as you
 
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Milestar 38x17x13.50
Icon Rebound Pro 17x8.5 +0
Spidertrax 1.5" spacers
RAM mounts from eimkeith
Panhard drop from eimkeith
3.5" dobinsons VT + IMS

Might deflare it, but no issues with ripping them off...yet.
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You ARE on mud. I did an engine rebuild about the same time you did and used a couple of your early videos of the teardown. Thanks for those.

I have a 3" lift with 35s and rubbed the flares fully flexed so would be curious if they become an issue for you.
 
Hey guys, I'm currently running 35's on stock wheels and a 3.5" variable Dobinsons lift. I have zero rub anywhere even under full flex. However, with my LS swap coming to completion, I'm looking at stepping up to 37's. I'm seeing reviews of set ups on here about rub at full lock, but does anyone have any input on rub at full lock while flexed out? Making big tires work on the street and on the trail are very different tasks. I have zero desire to run spacers, so any input on backspacing set ups under hard wheeling would be greatly appreciated

Pic is of me failing to get up the wall at Spring Creek from lack of power in the stock engine (intake and exhaust leaks were also plaguing me) and gearing

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Hey guys, I'm currently running 35's on stock wheels and a 3.5" variable Dobinsons lift. I have zero rub anywhere even under full flex. However, with my LS swap coming to completion, I'm looking at stepping up to 37's. I'm seeing reviews of set ups on here about rub at full lock, but does anyone have any input on rub at full lock while flexed out? Making big tires work on the street and on the trail are very different tasks. I have zero desire to run spacers, so any input on backspacing set ups under hard wheeling would be greatly appreciated

Pic is of me failing to get up the wall at Spring Creek from lack of power in the stock engine (intake and exhaust leaks were also plaguing me) and gearing

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Stick to 37x12.5 and shoot for 3.5” backspace. In a 17x9” wheel it’s -38 offset. Anything close should clear 37s with minimal work.
 
Running 17x9” -12mm offset wheels I had to move my front axle forward 1” to prevent the fronts from running the rear inner fender at full lock. No issues now.

details here: 80 Series, moving axle forward? - https://risingsun4x4club.org/xf/threads/80-series-moving-axle-forward.27596/
Similar story for me but when I moved my axle forward I had to trim my Slee Short Bus. Tire choice is also a big consideration. My 37" Maxxis Razrs measure 2+ inches taller than Ko2/ KM3 in the same size.
 
I'm hoping the Official 37" And Up brain-trust can help me. I have been poring over FB posts, the Compiled Suspension Thread, and GWNugget's Family Haulin Thread, and the Mud search function for weeks.

Short Version - What is the lowest suspension setup for 37" tires (without cutting the sheetmetal)?

Long Version - I see a few guys running a 3-inch-ish lift with 37" tires. I would like to do the same.

I recently purchased a flareless Poverty Pack 1991 FJ80. It needs new tires. I know I eventually want to run 37s, so I'd prefer not to buy tires twice.

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The truck currently has 33"x10.5"R15s BFG Mud Terrains on stock steel wheels. They actually measure out to about 31" diameter mounted on the truck. I have about 7" of clearance for the truck to clear the top of my garage.

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I would like to run the smallest lift possible to clear 37" tires. I don't want to cut. I want to run the stock front bumper and my OEM winch. The truck will be used mostly for highway driving and light wheeling. I don't need to flex it out.

This is my plan:

  • 2.5" OME Light/Medium 2851/2860 Coils
  • Dobinsons 682/683 Twin Tube Shocks
  • 1" Body Lift
  • 17" x 7.5" FJC Steel wheels w/ 4.84" BS
  • Falken Wildpeak AT4W 37"x12.5"R17 Tires
  • 1.25" Front and Rear Bumpstop Spacers
  • 1.25" Front Swaybar Spacer
  • Delta VS 3" (Standard Length) Caster Correction Arms
  • Eimkeith Rear Panhard Bracket
  • Extended Brake Lines

I am currently running the 3FE, dual battery, and OEM winch w/ synthetic rope. Future plans include swapping to a (heavier) diesel and a (lighter) manual transmission. Plus a rear full-floater.

Any feedback? What am I doing wrong?


To keep it on topic, here are a bunch of 80s w/ 3" lift and 37s:

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Thanks to @Marco Lau , @GW Nugget , @lelandEOD , @DBasher , @catfishhands , and many others for letting me rip off your photos without permission. :rofl:
 
I am not a fan of body lift of any kinds, but with that said, any 3" lift would do to clear 37s with the correct offset wheels and tires combo. You can clear 37s with 2.5" basic lift for looks, but if you want the full articulation and full flex without rubbing, you will probably need more than just a lift, longer panhards, custom bumpstops, extended lower Arms, tons of fender /bumper trims etc.

I am on 3.5" Dobinson IMS/Slinky HD, 17 x 9 Raceline Beadlocks, and bits and pieces of suspension mod to support the bigger tires and lifts.
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