New to the form, my first FJ.

[White Stripe]

Ya know if u wanted, you could torch off all the rivets, separate the c channels, grind, needle gun or sandblast everything to bare metal, do any repairs to bad sections, POR15, assemble with bolts instead of rivets,and have a very nice frame to start with and not have much money into it.

 

[Overlander78]

You know, that crossed my mind. But then I went and retrieved this other frame and body, and it looks great. Once I get the "newer" body and frame separated I'll have pictures for you guys to look at. Plus the new body has all the diamond plate redone floors in it. Now I'm in search of new running boards, rear panels, ambulance doors, and new metal siding for my hardtop. So if you anyway knows where to look.. Hit me up!

 

[Overlander78]

Has anyone heard of "classic parts 4 U" he's an eBay seller, that has really good deals on body pieces. $197 for 2 rear quarter panels seem pretty good.

 

[Jdc1]

I've got a set of rear quarters that came with some parts. They have a big "made in USA" sticker on them and are absolute garbage. We used real steel quarters for my build and they are night and day better in quality than the others. That being said, use what your budget allows. A fab shop might be able to bend some for you...

 

[Redgrrr]

Take a piece of cardboard and trace the top edge of the tub, cut out the profile and go to a metal warehouse and see if they will roll the metal for you. lt sounds like it will work for your project scope and be good enuf. In my little town in South Dakota both warehouses have the capability to do it so there is a chance your local one will too.

Thank you for your future service to this country. Welcome to 40 Habit.

 

[Overlander78]

Any tips on how to remove the windshield frame? Also I did some thinking I may hold off on the body panels for a bit, I figured If I'm going to replace the quarters I'll have to replace the rockers, then kick plate panels and so on. Mine aren't bad enough to were they are causing an issue so I'm going to hold off.

 

[Overlander78]

Both front fenders and bib removed, I literally soaked all connecting bolts in WD-40 for a week prior to this, maybe at least 6 out of however many actually backed out, the rest just snapped with enough torque. I had a video of it running but couldn't get it too upload. I'm dumping some marvel mystery oil both in the gas and oil, and letting it run for awhile tomorrow.

 

[Overlander78]

In other news, the new frame is completely solid. Needs the rear bumper fixed up a little, but least of my worries. I have a guy near where I live and I'm taking it too him for powder coating. Figured do it right once, won't have to do it again.

 

[DTSkyCop]

Wow, work cut out for you on this project... Following the progress... Subscribed!

 

[White Stripe]

I would just POR15 it. Easier to touch up. If powder coat gets chipped, it will allow salt and other corrosive road material seep underneath and rust will spread rapidly.

 

[120mm]

WD40 sucks as a penetrating oil. Use something like Kroil, Mouse Milk or CRC instead.

Or just use an angle grinder.

I'm from Iowa, and most time I don't waste my time trying to get bolts off; I just grind them off when practicable.

There is a place near where I live that will galvanize a frame for $100 or so. Don't know if that is something you'd be interested in, but I'm told a galvanized frame is the heat.

 

[Overlander78]

Does anyone else have any comments on what to do ? Powder coating, gavalnising... etc ? Why would be the best? I do plan on taking it on some trails and having a some
Action. So what would be best?

 

[Picz34]

Does anyone else have any comments on what to do ? Powder coating, gavalnising... etc ? Why would be the best? I do plan on taking it on some trails and having a some
Action. So what would be best?

I went the POR 15 route. I'm not saying its the best but it fit my budget and build needs. Sandblasting the frame was the worst part. I would find someone to do that part for you, then if you decide to use the POR-15 spray it on. It will give you very good coverage.

 

[White Stripe]

I think if you have a place that does galvanizing near you that is a great option, but its not always easy to find a place to do it in your area. If you are planning to mainly use it for wheeling and the street, I would probably por15 it so that if you do mods to the frame-like custom spring hangers or something like that, you can touch it up after the modification. Galvanizing is excellent at preventing rust, but its a kind of a one and done type of deal as the frame is first acid dipped, rinsed, then hot dipped in the solution. One of the biggest things that will keep rust off of a frame is to just keep it clean of packed mud and road salt.

 

[Overlander78]

@Picz34 how much will i need to cover the whole frame?

 

[Overlander78]

I've done some research on the POR15... it's one hell of a process. Doing all that work I might as well go ahead and powder coating, or clean up my frame and just paint it like it is.

 

[Mace]

Do you plan on making any mods to the frame later? If so, galvanizing and powder coating would be a waste.

Paint is more better

 

[Overlander78]

I think that's the route I'm going to go. I'm going to see if I can't find someone to bead/sandblast the frame and I'll just paint it myself

 

[Overlander78]

Also to add, if anyone has or knows anyone with a full FJ40 tub for a decent price (300-450 dollars) in or around Indiana, I'm still on the look for maybe a slightly a better in shape tub, the new tub I picked up will do fine for now, but you can tell all trail abuse it has taken. Wouldn't mind having something a little more repairable

 

[Picz34]

@Picz34 how much will i need to cover the whole frame?

I did the whole frame with a quart. The coverage is really good.