New to me 2000 LX470 (Pic heavy) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 24, 2016
Threads
9
Messages
68
Location
Austin, Texas
I have always been wanting to get a hundy and I finally found the right one after selling my e36. Picked it up with 144k and alot of maintenance records. She had the 90k service done at 100k so TB/WP should be good for another 100k :). Its been in Texas its whole life so zero rust! The plan with this hundy is to be a camping/ family vacation/ mild off-road vehicle (Which its already capable of!)

Im going to document all the mods/maintenance/repairs I do here. First some pictures!
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First off are some issues I've noticed. Here is the list so far:
-Pushing the CDL button engages the CDL but the light does not come on the dash nor does the button illuminate
-Two times within two weeks I've was waiting somewhere in the car with it running and the AHC randomly changed the height. Nothing changes on the dash I could just feel it move.
-I only received one key without a remote
-Door actuators are tired
 
Ok so my wife's main thing is having a remote unlock and locking of the doors. I was contemplating getting a remote start to avoid the hassles of master keys and possibly having to replace or reflash the ECU as I only had one grey non-remote key. Instead I read about how to see if your key is the master key or not.

-Hop in and close the doors
-Find the flashing alarm light (located near the AC controls)
-While watching the light, insert the key in question into the ignition
-If the light goes away immediately then you have a master key!

Luckily the key below was a Master key. Everything on the internet says that this is a valet key but when I did the above it turns out it is a non-remote master key. Also it is a valet key in the sense that it doesn't lock my glove box! So just test whatever key in question with the above method to be sure.

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Next I ordered two aftermarket remote keys from amazon. $50 for the pair
Amazon.com: Discount Keyless Remote Entry Replacement Uncut Key Fob For HYQ1512V (2 Pack): Automotive

I then took the keys to Lexus to get them cut. Lexus was cheaper than any one else I called when looking around in Austin. I was quoted by Cothrons $130 (Each) just to cut them the same as the key I have. Lexus charged me $12.95 each and had them done in 10 minutes.

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Once I had the two new key I tried to program them. The instructions in the link worked perfectly for me except the second part of the video on how to program the remote.

When I tried to do the remote programing I could not get it to enter the programming mode for the life of me. Several attempts later I recalled that on my old 3rd gen 4Runner I ran into the same issue. The solution: Instead of cycling through lock and unlock with the button on the door, stick your extra key in the door lock on the outside (rolling the drivers window made life alot easier) and follow the instructions exactly. This worked like a charm, the truck entered program mode and I was able to program both aftermarket keys to work with the immobilizer and remote unlock and lock the doors. SUCCESS!

Total cost:
2 Aftermarket Remote keys: $50
Lexus laser cut: $30

$80 is a hell of a lot cheaper than what I was quoted for just one key and programming ($300)
 
Next up was trashing the Nakamichi stereo and updating it with something double din that has GPS and bluetooth. I wanted to keep this low budget because maintenance is next up on my list of things to do. I purchased a Kenwood DNX6140 off a local guy for $100. Its old but it fits the bill and can have the maps updated by garmin. I also ordered a backup camera for my wife.
Amazon.com: Esky 170° Viewing Angle Universal Car License Plate Frame Mount Rear View Camera, 8 IR LED: Cell Phones & Accessories

Also I didn't want to run a wire from the radio to the back so I got these wireless transmitters
Amazon.com: Esky Wireless Color Video Transmitter and Receiver for Vehicle Backup Camera / Front Car Camera: Cell Phones & Accessories

When looking for a trim piece there are alot of EXPENSIVE options and this being a budget mod I did some searching. I found this trim piece that doesn't have the metal brackets because you can reuse the ones currently holding the Nakamichi in place.
XTRONS Radio Fascia for Lexus LX 470 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Facia Install Kit

Now I just have to finish installing everything and get the pictures up!
 
One problem I'm running into is finding a reverse wire to tap into. I found this in the forum
Got this from another thread:


On a 2000 LC/LX the speed and reverse wire are tapped at the ECU behind the glove box... Should be the same.

There are 5 connectors on the ECU, looking at ECU, from top to bottom

E5 / 31 pins
E6 / 24 pins
E7 / 17 pins
E8 / 28 pins
E9 / 22 pins

Speed wire is VIOLET E8-Pin 15

Reverse Wire is Red-Blue E8-Pin 2

You'll have to remove the glove box to get to the ECM.

Amplifier placement

Only problem is that E8 pin 2 is not Red-blue and there isn't even a red-blue wire on that connector at all!
Also I've got one wire from the Kenwood harness that is the reverse sensor. Being that its only one wire does this just splice into a wire on the ECU and thats all? Then when I put it in reverse it triggers the Kenwood? I though that this would require two wires


Any help on this would be great, I'd love to tackle this tonight
 
Thanks! And no problem for the link, I feel like there is so much wrong info on the internet and just wanted to clear things up.
 
I will be installing the rear view cam tonight and wiring it to come on when put in reverse. Pics soon to come...
 
First off are some issues I've noticed. Here is the list so far:
-Pushing the CDL button engages the CDL but the light does not come on the dash nor does the button illuminate
-Two times within two weeks I've was waiting somewhere in the car with it running and the AHC randomly changed the height. Nothing changes on the dash I could just feel it move.
-I only received one key without a remote
-Door actuators are tired
Welcome and congratulations on the new ride.

Keep working the CDL button on and off over next few weeks, the light often comes back without replacing relay. Same with the ECT & 2nd power. The relays seem to get frozen over time, do to lack of use.

Flushing the AHC hydraulic fluid may fix/help that issue, it did for me thanks to @PADDO help.

Nice write-up on the key.

Make sure your charging system is up to par, or it can play havoc with electronics like door actuator as well as engine (ignition coils).
 
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Welcome and congratulations on the new ride.

Keep working the CDL button on and off over next few weeks, the light often comes back without replacing relay. Same with the ECT & 2nd power. The relays seem to get frozen over time, do to lack of use.

Flushing the AHC hydraulic fluid may fix/help that issue, it did for me thanks to @PADDO help.
Nice write-up on the key.
Make sure your charging system is up to par, or it can play havoc with electronics like door actuator as well as engine (ignition coils).

Thanks I will definitely give that a shot. I read somewhere here that there is also something under the truck that needs to be cleaned. Also flushing AHC is a top maintenance item for me as is changing all the fluids and putting toyota red for the radiator.
 
An e36 is a 90's BMW 3 series. I sold it at 210k and it still drove amazing, only the interior was falling apart and I never knew if it was going to break down on me. I previously have owned 4 3rd gen 4runners and there's just something about toyota reliability that you can't beat. Knowing that it's going to start and take you to he'll and back is a pretty good feeling.
 
Welcome, i'm in tx also and recently purchased your rig's twin with a few more miles. Love me an e36 M as i've been a bimmer guy forever. My lx is the first non-euro daily i've ever had.
 

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