Build New project - 12H-T turbo diesel transplant into my 1991 FJ80.

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Well...had to go back to BD to clock the middle piece of the Supra turbo correctly, but it went on fine afterwards. Found out the hard way that Toyota red antifreeze is BITTER! Yuck! The 7MGT-E turbo doesn't line up 100% on the front housing...the hose needs to bend a little ont he compression side to fit...but it works fine.

No leaks, and didn't really notice much difference in performance. Cruising in overdrive at 80 mph my post turbo EGT is sitting between 650 and 700*F. I've installed the boost gauge, but I didn't have a T to tap into so I don't know how much boost I'm running yet. I'm guessing somewhere around 8 psi?

Anyway, I'll post some pics and a better report later. I've got an exhaust knock to have the shop fix...it's hitting a cross member and a suspension part...but all seems well so far.

:beer:
 
ToyotaObsession said:
Wouldn't more boost = higher EGT's?

Not the other way around?
Click to expand...

In diesels only if I turn up the fuel to go with the boost.

Thanks, Bruce...I'm going to buy the "T" at Mopac today so I can get my boost readings.
 
I just wanted to recognize all the help that Sheldon and Greg have given me in making this project possible...especially Sheldon. Just in case it wasn't clear in this thread...without expert help from Sheldon, this project would have never even been considered remotely possible for me. Being relatively new to the Cruiser scene, the one huge blessing I've had are my friends. Those of you who have dealt with G&S Cruiser Parts know exactly the quality people that Sheldon and Greg are. :beer:

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Thanks!
 
Hi Stone,

The Supra Turbo wont give much if any increase in performance unless other modifications are made.

Is you exhaust a good flowing 3" unit? If so, based on direct experience (recent as in last week) on 12H-T without IC, set boost to 18psi, adjust outwards the base fuel screw on the pump 2 full turns. Check EGT and smoke.

You can adjust these pumps to deliver more or less fuel in higher rpms (under the top cover are two screws), you can adjust the rev limit and you can adjust the aneroid spring pressure. So, if no smoke and low EGTS in low RPM (2000rpm) but excessive in top end, you can adjust less fuel up top, but more down low etc.

The truck I am referring to is running 16psi on std turbo, 3" exhaust, has low EGTS and is without intercooler. Blows no smoke, very clean. Adjusting the fuel screw out 2 turns brought up the boost earlier (strong from 1700rpm) and the truck feels very "light" to drive now.

The Supra turbo will come to its own when you fit the intercooler with 18psi or therabouts. This is when the std turbo has passed its flow rate (~ 12psi with IC).

For my project, which is still some ways off, I have located a 12HT auto bellhousing...so it should be in my 80 series in 3-4 months...... My current HJ61 has just received a new set of pistons rings and bearings and a "mild" port, so I will be really interested to see the results on my own vehicle. If interested, I will post the results.

Cheers
 
Got an initial fuel consumption figure running the little 235/75R/15 tires...and it worked out to around 12.2L/100 kms. 19.28 US MPG. I figured this was pretty good considering I was going a little crazy with speed for the first half of the tank because I was just enjoying how much power the 12H-T has. :D 12L/100 kms was what my old BJ74 got and that was on a 5spd and my 80 has a lot more power and is running an auto tranny.

My Supra turbo is only putting out a max of 7 psi...so I'll be adding in my manual boost controller to bump that up to around 10 psi.

Installed the 2.5" lift yesterday and the 33" BFG ATKO's...looks much better. I'll probably look for swaybar extensions though.
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The TURBO badge on the grille is a small clue that what's under the hood is no ordinary FJ80...:)
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I also installed some mint JDM door panels to replace the original ones that were brutally butchered with the nasty aftermarket vinyl panels...why anyone would do that, I don't know. When my daughter is a little older, I'll swap out the vinyl aftermarket seat skins with a leather kit from Aatlas.
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After seeing Tapage's gauge pod install, I decided to do something similar using a Glow Shift universal dual gauge pod. I like the install...clean and easy to see...but there is a bit of glare on a sunny day when the sunroof is open. ISSPRO is still by far my favourite brand of gauges.
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:beer:
 
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WOW what a difference a lift and tires make.
Looks awesome.
Now for the snork and bullbar
 
nice .. ! ISSPRO turned in my favourites gauges too ..

I have a grey auto console mint at home ..
 
Wait a minute... your daughter is going to be driving this!? Jealous, is she of marriageable age? :) Just kidding. Looking good sir.
 
Stone, vehicle is looking nice. I see you have fitted the VX Headlights and bumper and Grill - nice find! My VX-Ltd had all that stuff and it really modernises the vehicle compared with the 4 square headlights.

My Mate is still running the 16psi on std turbo. Since these engines dont flow so well up top, the increased boost ability of the turbo is to be expected. Anyway, this 60 is a manual, so the exhaust housing A/R is bigger. Yours will make more boost down low however will probably choke a bit up top. This will make driving best in the 1600-2500rpm range most probably which is obviously a good match with the auto.

Have you had a Stage 2 valve body fitted yet?? If you do (I think I read it somewhere), it is a no brainer to get the 3rd gear lockup on the TC. This absolutely transforms the usability of the auto. When off road in low for example, at anything above ~ 18mph, it will lock, thus no overheating box. I towed a caravan through the mountains for months and it was the difference between having to stop with an overheated box and just powering on, locked up. I was running around 500nm torque from 1700rpm up and made for a supreme combo.

I have located a 12HT A440F Box with bell housing - so hopefully in a few months I will have my 80 with a 12H-T!!

Do you happen to know what the final drive in your 3F A440F box is? In the 12H-T config it is 0.716:1. This is the tallest ratio of ALL the boxes toyota made up until the 6 speed in the 200 series! Great for economical cruising
 
12HT Engine maintenence

I have pulled down 2 12H-T engines now. One at 540,000km and one at 320,000km. Both genuine kms.

The 540kkm was dead with classic top ring problem. So bad it eventually wiggled out the top of the piston. I had to bore 40 thou to remove the bore mark. On this engine ALL was good except piston top ring, bores from ring wear at turn around and top ring issue, valve guides (heaps of wear) and lifters (chrome coming off).

The 320kkm engine had ring problem, but not terminal (had worn the bores heaps though at turn around), head had already been recon'd, so was fine, lifters again had the chrome coming off. I managed to hone out the bores (really on the limit) to remove all marks and std pistons were used with filed back rings

I mention this because it is very easy to change lifters. If a 12H-T has done more than 250kkm, *I* would replace the lifters without question. I would also change the pistons to the updated type, but this is an option job because so big a job.
 
Hi Gbentink:

Actually, my grille and lights are regular North American spec combination lamps. I just ordered the Turbo emblem from Japan (through Japan 4x4 via G&S) and stuck it on there. Sheldon does have a brand new Oz spec headlight set with the four square lights...but I prefer the combination lamps myself.

I haven't ordered the valve body or torque converter from Rodney yet...I want to see what the factory setup rides like...and with the project money is a bit tight right now. I'll eventually drop them in. I don't know the final drive specs off hand, but I'll look for the info.

:cheers:
 
I will also be pulling down a 12H-T in a month or so that has 420kkm on the clock, It is showing signs of being tired. Slight miss, using a bit of oil, but still returns 10.5L/100km......

This will be the base for the 4.6-4.9L bored and stroked 12H-T build.

I will be interested to see after pulling down three of the 12H-T what common issues occur and see if they can be avoided in the build process with alternative parts. Certainly the piston issue has been fixed.

Lifter diameter is 22.2mm, chances are there is an aftermarket lifter than will suit - just to find it.....
 
Shows how Specs vary from Country to Country. The wheels, headlights and bumpers you have are VX/VX-Ltd Spec for 1990-1992 but without some other options... I noticed you had std aircon (ie, no climate control, hence I assumed that you had changed the wheels, bumpers and headlights to the jap spec! Does yours have the toyota front and rear diff locks, speed sensitive steering and sunroof?

Anyway, nice looking rig!
 
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