Build New project - 12H-T turbo diesel transplant into my 1991 FJ80.

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Ha ha! I agree with Sailor... I'd be afraid of 96 in an 80... :) Congrats sir.
 
Hey Stone, reread the thread and am quite happy for you. Sounds amazing. :). Had a couple questions...

1- Wiring: How extensive was this? Like what all did you have to change/ add if you don't mind me asking.

2- The kickdown cable that arrived from Japan... Was this a custom one? Did the 3FE-A440 one not work with the 12H-T?

3- Not sure if you got the A/C stuff figured out. How did that come out?

Thanks, I would like to do this some day. I can't decide between this and a 1HZ... Who knows... but I like all the pictures. :) Congrats.
 
THanks folks...I'm certainly excited about the performance of the 12H-T so far. FWIW...many of you are running lifts and bigger tires...my 80 still has the silly 29" factory spec tires on it, which probably explains the acceleration. When I put my 33" tires on, I'm sure it will be different.

Pookiebear: The kickdown cable from the 3FE, IRC, was a bit long. We used the one that came with the 12H-T/A440 combo off of the 60, but it was pretty rusty inside...and if you know Sheldon...often times anything less than perfect is not acceptable. The difference between the old cable and new one was pretty dramatic, and it seems to function flawlessly in my setup.

The AC hasn't been hooked up yet...I need to find an FJ62 (I think) stator coil that will convert my compressor to 12V. Then I need to take it to an AC shop and have them custom bend me some new hard lines. I'll want to do this soon as it's starting to get warm (for us Notherners anyway) up here.

:beer:
 
Stone said:
and if you know Sheldon...often times anything less than perfect is not acceptable.
Click to expand...


Yes.. I am afraid it is part of my Anal retentive, bordering on Obsessive compulsive, disorder...
Now where is my comb?.. the tassels on the rug need some organizing.
 
:lol: Ha ha. So us mere mortals would probably have been able to live with the rusty one ehh... ;). Good stuff guys. I'm following with much interest.
 
ThePookieBear said:
1- Wiring: How extensive was this? Like what all did you have to change/ add if you don't mind me asking.
Click to expand...

Forgot to answer this question...

Wiring consisted more of REMOVING extra wires than adding in stuff. Mainly, I needed to remove all of the EFI stuff on the large passenger side loom that hooked up to the ECU. Of course I no longer have an ECU...so that huge amount of wiring was all removed.

I had to check twice to ensure that I didn't touch any of the wires that would affect the transmission. In the end, that particular wiring harness was reduced by about half.

Sheldon clued me in in the gasser starter solenoid being directly operated by the key...but the diesel starter, which is at least twice as big as the gasser one, really should be run on a relay...so I added an OEM on to do that.

The glow screen needed a switch, lamp, and its own circuit...which I added in. I guess I could have used an OEM glow relay, but opted instead to use a new Cole Hersee constant duty solenoid.

The vacuum switching valve needed to be wired in...just tied it in to an unused EFI wire that had constant power on "ON". The vacuum switching valve itself came courtesy of the bunch of VSV's that were removed from the 3FE...cool! :)

The alternator, oil pressure sender, and water temp sender were all pretty much direct wire in. I had to change the harness plug for the alternator to suit my custom 12V high output diesel alternator.

I'm still waiting for my tach adaptor to be built...I have no idea when that's going to be.

I'm in the process of wiring in my stereo system aux. fuse box, and the Redarc smart start isolator to my deep cycle battery.

I haven't installed my CC components yet...I have to find out why it wasn't working prior to removal, and I'll likely need a custom cable to hook it up to the 12H-T.

Sheldon ordered me up a new throttle cable that's meant for a LHD HJ61 and you guys should see how it fits...like it was designed from the factory to be there! Sweet!

Did I mention that my door panels are now unmolested HDJ81 panels? They look very nice compared to the NA ones...and certainly better than the ones I had that had the cheesy aftermarket vinyl panels peeling off of them. Shel..."up spec!" LOL...:D
 
Nice!! Couple other questions...

Does the 12H-T have a vacuum pump or...?

I thought that the tach hooked right up? Must have misread it. Will it need a small aftermarket, or will you be able to get the factory one to work?
 
Having had the pleasure of driving Stones truck back from the muffler shop "the long way around" :-) i was surprised at the bottom end get up and go...and the minimal throttle input needed to keep gaining speed. Really surprised actually, having Petra's HJ61 to compare too. Looking forward to your getting the turbo sorted then some mileage numbers over the next few months.

gb
 
ThePookieBear said:
Nice!! Couple other questions...

Does the 12H-T have a vacuum pump or...?

I thought that the tach hooked right up? Must have misread it. Will it need a small aftermarket, or will you be able to get the factory one to work?
Click to expand...

Vacuum pump is on the back of the alternator.

The tach on the 3FE takes a signal from the ignitor, while the 12H-T has a hall effect sensor on the ring gear/bell housing. The two make different signals, and I'll need the adaptor to make the factory tach work with the diesel. :) I wish it was just plug and play...
 
Hey Greg...you back from the cabin? I haven't had a chance to look, but I'm wondering what the gearing differences are between the diesel A440 and the gasser A440 that I'm using, and how that's affecting the performance of my truck?
 
I have a 24v 12H-T that I'm converting to 12v to put into my fj60. When you converted your alternator did you need all three alternators or do you think I could convert my alternator by just using a 12v 3B alternator? I have AC so I guess I have the smaller body 2h alternator.

Also, I talked with Dave at Japan4x4 and he said to convert the AC compressor you need to swap out the stator, which is about $65.
 
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do you have a replacement gauge face, or are you looking at using the stock one? I was looking at getting a custom one made: Black Cat Custom Automotive - Custom Design Gauge Faces but my cruiser has been in the shop for a very long time so i havent had the chance to pull the dash apart to send the faceplate in. these guys will custom make gauge faces if you send one in. If your interested i will be looking at getting one made soon, it would be cheaper to buy multiples.
 
Ducks: Sheldon will have to confirm this for me...but I think what he figured out was that if you have a 12V 3B alternator, you can buy a new rear housing for a 2H and just replace that to make it fit the 12H-T. For what it cost me to rebuild and put in the new rear housing, it would have cost the same to just buy a new 3B alternator from Toyota and replace ther ear housing, then everything's 100% Toyota. The one good thing about my setup is that the guy who made it for me bumped up the output to 72A...although running a diesel I barely need it. :)

And yes, I'm looking for a 12V stator coil...I know the one of my FJ80 compressor is the wrong size...perhaps the one from an FJ62 will be the right one.

Cody: Wondering why I would need a new gauge face made? If I wanted kms, I could just drop in a cluster from an HDJ81...but I'm still hoping the guy who promised to make my tach adaptor won't leave me hanging high and dry.
 
Ducks: My glow screen is 24V and I'm supplying it with 12V. After consulting with Ciarran Wilson, I decided to wire it up with the two screens in parallel. Haven't really tested how well it works yet as it's summer...will know better when fall/winter comes along. I do know it turns on when I push the button...:)

Cody: Oh, I see what you mean. Even if you change the range on the face of the gauge, how are you going to modify the needle so it moves differently? I'm hoping for that adaptor to make my factory tach work...I may have to buy a small aftermarket one in the meantime.
 
you can adjust the output of the sender, or have it built to give you an output that will match.

the problem i would like to avoid is a: having the stock tachometer with correct gauge movement makes the unexperienced driver think there is alot of RPM band left to use

b: the experienced driver using it with full gauge movement will think its over-revving
 
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