New member in Pickup sub (1 Viewer)

[HawkGunner]

Hello all,

I've been haunting the 40 series sub for a while. I sold my old '89 pickup a few years ago to purchase the 40, but I got the bug for a mini-truck again and the wife OK'd it... so I bought a neighbors truck who's moving from Texas to California.

I bought it built already (I'll catch some heat here probably. Don't care, it was too good a deal to pass up)

-'92 extra cab, mild cam, SAS'd, rear axel is an 01 taco swapped in, e-lockers front and rear, GM disc brakes rear conversion, 5.29 gears front and rear to handle the 35's. Roll cages in the cab and under the camper shell, a few other goodies/odds and ends.

It's got some minor issues I need to work through, but overall it runs well. I haven't worked on a 22RE in so long I've forgotten quite a bit and I don't have my FSM anymore.... I'll be asking some questions. I'm assuming the bank of knowledge is just as good here as it is in the 40 Series section.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Nice truck!

 

[HawkGunner]

Nice truck!

Thanks! Too bad I can't get it started haha

 

[yotadude520]

Very nice truck! Looks like a good buy.

What's keeping it from starting? Have you diagnosed it at all?

 

[HawkGunner]

When I bought it, it had hard start and surging idle conditions. I fixed the surging idle... it was a combination of a bad TPS and a bad temp sensor.

Today it won't start and I have a code 12. I changed out the ignitor and coil. The coil and ignitor were original, and the PO had done some weird wiring to the ignitor. The ignitor tested fine, but I changed it just to take the weird wiring off the table.... just in case.

I'm left with the starter circuit, which I haven't tested yet because I have night classes. But, I'm assuming it's the starter connectors or power/ground connections. Just before I left for class the starter started acting as if it were going bad, so I'll pull and clean it all up tomorrow.

 

[pappy]

Generally starter issues are contracts and plunger. Easy fix once you get the starter out.

 

[yotadude520]

If it does end up being the starter, as pappy said just rebuild it. I bought the contacts on ebay for like 12 bucks and it was super easy.

 

[HawkGunner]

I'm about to go test it out. If it is the starter, I'll probably replace with a new unit, then rebuild the old to keep on hand.

I've been doing that with my FJ40 so I can have some of the more difficult/expensive to get parts on hand, and the system is working out well.

I also got some braided tinned copper wire sleeve to shield the KS wire repair I had to make

 

[HawkGunner]

Well, it appears my ECU is bad.

I'm not an expert at electrical stuff, but I've checked or replaced every part that the manual tells me to. Still has a code 12 and crank/no start.

Anyone have a line on an ECU? Or any tips otherwise?

 

[pappy]

I just went back through your read, and I have a couple questions. I want to make sure I'm clear.

• It cranks, but won't start? Or, it won't crank?
• Auto, or manual?

 

[HawkGunner]

I just went back through your read, and I have a couple questions. I want to make sure I'm clear.

• It cranks, but won't start? Or, it won't crank?
• Auto, or manual?

Cranks, won't start. It's a manual.

It was a hard start when I bought it, but now it's crank/no start.

I have tested or replaced the ignitor, coil, temp sensor, TPS, starter, and the wiring inbetween all.

I don't know if it's the ECU or not, and I dont want to drop $300 if it won't fix it, but I'm sort of at a loss. I would appreciate some suggestions.

 

[pappy]

Try a different dizzy cap and rotor.

 

[Pacer]

Do you see spark?

 

[HawkGunner]

Do you see spark?

I haven't checked the plugs. I pulled the coil wire and checked for spark there. So there is spark up to the cap and rotor.

But I wouldn't think a bad cap or rotor button would throw a code 12.

 

[pappy]

Clear the code and see if comes back.

 

[Pacer]

I haven't checked the plugs. I pulled the coil wire and checked for spark there. So there is spark up to the cap and rotor.

But I wouldn't think a bad cap or rotor button would throw a code 12.

So, when you pull a plug to check for spark, you can also smell/see fuel wafting from the plug hole if the injectors are firing. You can hear them ticking too if they are working.
Bad ECU will not fire the injectors.

I lost an ECU in a '92 Celica hooking jumper cables up backwards. Took forever to diagnose, replacement ECU fixed it.

 

[KLF]

Have you checked the fuel pump?

Maybe a wiring fault at the MAF that won't turn on the pump?

Fuel filter clogged?

Circuit opening relay failed?

 

[HawkGunner]

Clear the code and see if comes back.

I have. It returns every time I try to start it.

So, when you pull a plug to check for spark, you can also smell/see fuel wafting from the plug hole if the injectors are firing. You can hear them ticking too if they are working.
Bad ECU will not fire the injectors.

I lost an ECU in a '92 Celica hooking jumper cables up backwards. Took forever to diagnose, replacement ECU fixed it.

I pulled the plugs, because I removed and reinstalled the dizzy to reset the base timing. I smelled for fuel on plugs and verified. And PO had the injectors redone by Witch Hunter.

One reason I'm hesitant to buy a new/remanned ECU.

Have you checked the fuel pump?

Maybe a wiring fault at the MAF that won't turn on the pump?

Fuel filter clogged?

Circuit opening relay failed?

The injectors are squirting ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

At this point, I'm embarrased already... because I know it's going to be something stupid.

 

[pappy]

... because I removed and reinstalled the dizzy to reset the base timing.

At this point, I'm embarrased already... because I know it's going to be something stupid.

This is way easy to goof up. Done it. Try again. One tooth can make a big difference.

 

[Pacer]

Yeah, if injectors are working, chances are ECU is good.
You're doing fine, and asking the right crowd.