need help with power steering pump removal... (1 Viewer)

[g-man]

Pulling my stock power steering pump for replacement. (out of my 87 fj60) The head of the rear mounting bolt is right up against the exhaust manifold heat shield. So no room to get it out. Do I remove the heat shield...rusty screws..): or Do I take the entire mount and pump off together? I loosened the front bolt about 1/2 inch out and removed the one side bolt that I could see but after prying with pry bar it doesnt budge. If I remove the two mounting bolts in the front can I wiggle the pump enough to get the rear bolt out without tearing into my exhaust shield?

 

[Output Shaft]

1. Loosen all the pump bolts on the PS bracket
   
2. Remove the PS bracket
3. Then remove the pump

(at least that is how I did it)

 

[FJ40Jim]

^ What he sez. ^

 

[Slow Left]

Here are some related threads:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/power-steering-pump-removal.195684/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/power-steering-bolt.204207/#post-3022062
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ps-pump-removal-problem.503714/#post-6806162
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ps-pump-removal.266328/#post-4133149

Once you have that pump removed, then with the bracket off the engine block, cut a notch in the out side of that rear bolt hole in the bracket...so that when you go to reinstall, you can slide the PS pump back into place with the rear bolt already threaded into the back of the PS pump and with the PS bracket already installed on the engine block...then all you've got to do is thread in the two front bolts and tighten down that rear bolt...

There is a thread somewhere on the 60 section (that's what I was looking for...) about cutting the side of that rear bracket hole...with pictures I think...

The picture above shows the PS bracket mounted. Unfortunately, it doesn't show that bolt hole in the back after the mod...but essentially you've got to cut off enough material off the side/top so that the bolt can slide into the hole from the side...but not too much material since the bolt head will need something to grab onto when you tighten it down...

 

[g-man]

That makes sense. I started unbolting the mounting bracket ..just need to find the rest of the bolts. Glad its not just me. I thought I was missing something. But just some messed up engineering. I like the idea of cutting a slot in the bracket rather than shortening the back bolt.

Thanks for all your responses!!!

Glen

 

[2mbb]

I take off the heat shield. The first time I removed the pump I was able to get a wrench on the bolt but the threads were just too long to allow the bolt to come out enough to get the pump off. Even with the heat shield removed, the bolt head would hit up against the manifold. I messed around with it for a long time. There was a sweet spot where it all lined up and the pump would pop out. Before I put it back together, I ground down that bolt length a couple of threads, to make it easier the next time.

 

[g-man]

I was able to bend the heat shield a bit with my socket wrench to get the 14 mm socket on the bolt heads where the bracket bolts to the drivers side of the block. Its so close to the exhaust that i tried a box wrench but I couldn't get enough leverage to break them loose. 14mm socket w/6 inch extension was the ticket. same with the front bolt 14mm 6 inch extension go in sideways from the drivers side of the fan

 

[Output Shaft]

A new PS pump, if properly cooled and maintained with regular fluid changes can easily last more than 10 years. It's not like these have to be swapped out on a regular basis. Personally, I wouldn't mess with the bracket. It was designed like that for a reason.. and not just to piss everyone off. Although less than ideal, it is not a mistake. In fact it might be a "feature".

Toyota knew very well that the bolt hits the manifold, and had 7 years of production to modify that bracket if they wanted to. Lots of other things got modified in the cruiser during that time, but that bracket remained. Toyota does not design slots for critical bolts ever.

 

[The Machinist]

Before you put the bracket back on, grind down the rear bolt by a few threads so that it is still trapped against the exhaust manifold, but gives enough clearance for the pump to be dropped in. This will let you be able to quickly get the pump out in the future.... and you won't ever loose that bolt!

 

[g-man]

I decided not to cut a slot in the bracket. It does seem that would weaken the hold on the pump. At least I know how to get it off next time. Hopefully not for a long time. BTW...I over tightnened both my alternator and smog pump belt causing some rubbing...similar to power steering pump failure. Just had to back off the tension of both.

 

[sitesbyjoe]

I'm in the middle of this same annoying task and like others, my rear bolt ain't coming loose.

Now I'm looking at the bracket. There's 5 bolts in total and all 5 are tough to get to. Could anyone explain what parts (minimally) you had to remove to remove all 5?

 

[Output Shaft]

If your replacement PS pump doesn't have a pully, remove the pully off your old pump before removing the pump from the bracket.
Tighten up the belt to hold the pully, so you can loosen the pully nut.

All the PS bracket bolts are easy to access IF you remove other things that are in the way.

I know you just want to get at the pump, and that pesky bolt is 2mm too long, but you've gotta remove the crap that might be in the way of accessing the bracket bolts.

I can't remember if the ABV assembly has to be moved or not.

The front of the bracket slides over a stud on the front of the head (circled in red in pic below).
It's held in place with a nut.

So the bracket has to slide forward off that stud to be removed. (When all the other bolts have been removed).

 

[sitesbyjoe]

Ugh. So it looks like the air pump needs to come off at the very least then. I see no ther way to get at the back bolts on the bracket.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The AP doesn't need removed. It is very difficult to remove AP w/ PS in the way.

Remove air cleaner assembly.
Remove PS pulley nut, lockwasher, flatwasher.
Loosen alternator tension, pop belt off alt & PS.
Pull/wiggle/tap PS pulley to remove off front of PS pump.
Loosen the AP tension & pop off the belt.
Remove the 2 12mm headed bolts under the PS pump, then remove the AP adjust bolt. adjuster bracket falls off.
Remove PS hoses from pump.
Remove the 14mm nut on frt of engine (circled in red above). Access is difficult; swivel socket, flex head ratchet, flex head gearwrench may be needed.
Remove 3 14mm bolts from side of engine block. Use swivel socket and move AP as necessary.
PS pump & bracket lifts out of engine bay.
Remove PS pump to bracket mounting bolts.

Installing new pump is reverse of above.

HTH

 

[jpsfj60]

Jim,, I did everything you said here and I still could not get pump with the bracket off?
After all 3 bracket bolts are out and the nut on the front of the block is off do I have to
beat bracket off. Mine would not budge loose at all.
Want to remove pump the correct way too, with out any cutting or grinding.
I put everything back together cause I was certain I was missing a ps bracket bolt that needed to come out, but I wasn't.

The AP doesn't need removed. It is very difficult to remove AP w/ PS in the way.

Remove air cleaner assembly.
Remove PS pulley nut, lockwasher, flatwasher.
Loosen alternator tension, pop belt off alt & PS.
Pull/wiggle/tap PS pulley to remove off front of PS pump.
Loosen the AP tension & pop off the belt.
Remove the 2 12mm headed bolts under the PS pump, then remove the AP adjust bolt. adjuster bracket falls off.
Remove PS hoses from pump.
Remove the 14mm nut on frt of engine (circled in red above). Access is difficult; swivel socket, flex head ratchet, flex head gearwrench may be needed.
Remove 3 14mm bolts from side of engine block. Use swivel socket and move AP as necessary.
PS pump & bracket lifts out of engine bay.
Remove PS pump to bracket mounting bolts.

Installing new pump is reverse of above.

HTH

 

[Output Shaft]

After the 3 bracket bolts and the front stud nut is removed, the bracket needs to slide FORWARD to clear the stud to be removed. It slides (or should) right off. No pounding.

 

[jpsfj60]

Will try it all over again.
Thanks Output Shaft.

After the 3 bracket bolts and the front stud nut is removed, the bracket needs to slide FORWARD to clear the stud to be removed. It slides (or should) right off. No pounding.

 

[Output Shaft]

Here is what the mounting surface looks like. Just 3 bolts and one stud.

 

[gregnash]

Mine was corroded on there a bit with years of engine grim so I tapped mine with a rubber mallet a couple time and then it loosened right off.

 

[jpsfj60]

Yep Had all those bolts and one nut off. Man I was so close and just didn't
tap or rubber mallet it.
Well live and learn, I guess. At least now when I do it over this time I will be an expert at those
3 bolts. Had no problems getting the nut off either.
Thanks again for that close up pic. I can show my buddy cause those 3 bolts drove him crazy yesterday!!
NEW PUMP going on!

Output Shaft

Here is what the mounting surface looks like. Just 3 bolts and one stud.

View attachment 1192874