My Tailgate Storage Project
- Thread starter Aloha Jen
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Ok. What about an AR separated into lower and upper halves?
Why would you do that? Why not carry a couple of bricks instead?
Because my effective range would be about 100x greater once the front and rear pins make things whole again.
Unless you are talking about a brink of ammo? Couple of those would go nicely as well.
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I am referring to the time it takes to go to the tailgate, open it up, open the lids, wiggle the parts out, assemble the rifle and go to work. (not workplace).
Maybe a lock box by your feet would be more effective. I think @NLXTACY may back me up with this theory.
Maybe a lock box by your feet would be more effective. I think @NLXTACY may back me up with this theory.
good stuff...will all the lights power on at once with the remote?
I did this with some aluminum plate and it came out great. More functional for me. I decided against the tailgate storage thing as mine is constantly being sat on, walked on by dogs, worked on, etc. The nice wagongear ones are just too expensive and the plastic hatches would last about one trip, lol. Aluminum is nice as I just take a sanding pad real quick and knock off all the debris, corrosion etc when I clean up the car and it is like new again.
That I think would work unless you have come kind of long flash suppressor. Local mudder did this and because the tailgate isn't very deep you can't exactly angle in long stuff.
I used this stuff to line some of my interior panels. Would probably work good for the tailgate.
Peel & Seal, 6 in. x 33-1/2 ft. Self-Stick Roll Roofing, SLTA/PAS6335 at The Home Depot - Mobile
Easy to cut and doesn't smell. Cheaper then dyanamat.
Peel & Seal, 6 in. x 33-1/2 ft. Self-Stick Roll Roofing, SLTA/PAS6335 at The Home Depot - Mobile
Easy to cut and doesn't smell. Cheaper then dyanamat.
Yeah, there is a video of a guy with a Jeep Cherokee on YouTube who did his interior with that stuff. Better sound deadening than his dynamat.
I think that rear hatch might be the worst place to put a rifle unless you are smuggling it across borders.
Anyway, this is the most "professional" install I've seen that is really cheap also. About $100 right?
I still can't bring myself to take a jigsaw to that hatch, but seems like the most reasonable way to do it.
Also, does the wiring in between the 2 compartments pose any fire/spark issue?
Anyway, this is the most "professional" install I've seen that is really cheap also. About $100 right?
I still can't bring myself to take a jigsaw to that hatch, but seems like the most reasonable way to do it.
Also, does the wiring in between the 2 compartments pose any fire/spark issue?
Sometimes you need a low-profile means of storing your blaster while on the road. I like the idea of being able to break it down and slip it into the tailgate if you had to leave it in the truck unattended. An assembled SBR might fit in there depending upon barrel length and stock thickness, as well as accessories.
Most of us would rather have our truck rifles accessible, but options.
Most of us would rather have our truck rifles accessible, but options.
Your man really seems to be taking off with this whole Land Cruiser thing huh? 
Haha - after seeing your pics this comment turned into "safe for kids to walk on", I'm thinking you weigh something to the tune of 1/2 of most of us.
As one of us pushing 200#'s it's a safe step for us "fullsize" 80 owners - I have one as bow storage on the boat deck & even my 18yo sun-crystalized one is still solid. When new it flexed less though. I suppose I had less give 18 yrs ago too.
Because a couple of coca bricks are very,very expensive
This would be your best bet for fitting:
CDNN SPORTS - RUGER® 10/22TDT® 22LR TAKEDOWN MOSSY OAK CAMO
I'm cutting my tailgate top out. Have a piece of Aluminum Diamond Plate to go over it. Might put the carpet back on it for a factory look.
Will do pics when I complete it.
- Thread starter
- #58
Yes, they all power on/off at once, are dimmible with 4 different light intensities, and timers can even be set to auto off. They are really cool lights.
- Thread starter
- #59
Thanks, I think....can't tell if your being sarcastic because professional was in quotes...but I will choose to be optimistic and take it as a compliment.
And yes, cost was $96 plus some bolts.
Don't know about the wiring being a fire hazard, I hope not, but I did put some of @scottryana high desire/density foam underneath it to try and keep it in place/not have stuff shift over in to it.
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I would love a Wagongear lid. Money is not the problem but availability is. The last time he made a batch they sold out in hours and I missed out.
This looks like a great way to go and I'll probably end up copying this. Very clean install and the light pucks were a great idea. Nice job!
This looks like a great way to go and I'll probably end up copying this. Very clean install and the light pucks were a great idea. Nice job!