My overdue PM journey. Picture heavy. (1 Viewer)

[grizzlygibbs]

Last night I got the two main battery cables, and the Cylinder Head to Firewall ground cable hooked up, as well as hooked up my cruise control and Throttle kick down cable.

I paid Fourrunner a little bit extra for extended cables as I am running a Die Hard Platinum group 34 battery, which is the step down from a group 31. The problem is, the posts are on the wrong sides than what the LC came with. Not a big deal, but now I am going to try to run the cables across the top of the battery. I taped up the battery cables, as well as used the OEM battery cable stay, just like the stock ones.

It is no secret that the old starter lug terminal cover will not fit with the larger gauge battery cables, so I bought a rubber boot protector for 2.99 that will work perfect to protect the terminal from grounding out and the weather.

I installed the ground cable coming from the head to the firewall. Make sure you grab the right cable, as one of the ground cables has a smaller terminal hole, which I am assuming is for the Transfer case ground. I learned this the hard way. My ground cable grounds to the head using the same bolt as the heater tube.

This is the negative battery cable where it is grounded to the block. Get this one good and tight as it is a little harder to get to. I could not find torque specs.

My phone ran out of battery last night and I did not get much more accomplished besides the throttle body cables and there are plenty of write-ups on that.

This AM I am running to the hardware store first thing as I can not get over the idler pulley bolt sticking so far out with the washers. Then I will install the starter, new accelerator cable, put the battery back in, refill cooling system, and start this baby up.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

After I dropped daughter number one off at school I swing by the Home Depot and picked up a bolt that would fit perfect where the Idler pulley is and is much better than my stacked washer set up.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I put in my new accelerator cable as well. Not horrible but having the front seat out made it much easier.

There is a great video on You Tube made by Texasknowhow. He is a member on mud who has some great videos on various repairs. His video helped me greatly and he has a great personality. I am not sure of his name on here, but I hope he knows he is a valuable member of the mud community.



My outter cable was fracked pretty badly and I was hoping this will help smooth out the pedal.

The cable came out and went back in easily with the cable straightened out.

Reassembled and ready to slip through the firewall.

 

[Congo Cruiser]

I will probably get some flak for this, but I also drilled out my fusible links wire, to work with my Military Terminals I got from Fourrunner. I debated just installing a ⅜" lug to the fusible links, but thought the slight amount I would drill out would not hurt anything. I have a spare set in the glovebox in case it does not and I may switch to a Marine style terminal instead.

@grizzlygibbs, I slightly filed out the rings on my fusible links to fit my military terminals. Will removing that little bit of metal on the rings cause safety/performance issues with the fusible links? Contact with the terminals is solid. I have not experienced any negative repercussions. Just wondering about the "flak" you were expecting (I'm no mechanic). Thanks for your thoughts. Enjoying following your work!

 

[Buckru]

I'm shooting from memory and it's been a while since I touched the fuel rail for my hg job but, isn't the fuel rail torqued to 22 inch pounds? Don't quote me thought it's worth a recheck.

Looking really nice.

 

[excessive]

Nice work, thanks for posting all this. i am actually doing a lot of the same maintenance myself right now, so this is helpful. I still haven't decided about the EGR delete, but you did a real clean job of it.

I have to ask - did you buy brand new fuel injectors!?? (big $) Why did you go that route as opposed to having yours cleaned by a professional cleaning service?

 

[4G63 POWER]

Looks great, nice 80. Looks clean. One thing I have to comment on is re-installing the valve cover hoses back to the intake. Not sure why after all that cleaning you wouldn't install dual catch cans?

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I will get to the questions and comments later tonight.

Just wanted to report, she fired right up and runs better than when we bought it in 2006.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Got the starter and the battery in. Then got the cables all adjusted the best I could without taking it for a drive yet...
Old news as I already let the cat outta the bag that she is up and running.

I checked and double checked most everything that I did prior to hooking up the battery and cranking. I installed my new rubber air intake tube, I checked the belts and the adjusting nuts, checked all of my water connections, made sure all wires were connected and in their respective states, hooked up my new battery cables, along with my headlight harness (I have one of the upgraded headlight kits from a distributor here on mud, sorry I do not remember which ones), and the fusible links. I intentionally left the coil wire off the distributor threw in my EFI.

Here is how nice the rubber boot fits over the starter lug with the 1/0 battery cable.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I

@grizzlygibbs, I slightly filed out the rings on my fusible links to fit my military terminals. Will removing that little bit of metal on the rings cause safety/performance issues with the fusible links? Contact with the terminals is solid. I have not experienced any negative repercussions. Just wondering about the "flak" you were expecting (I'm no mechanic). Thanks for your thoughts. Enjoying following your work!

I actually just did not like doing it as they seem like a sensitive but integral part of the electrical system. Not sure it if hurts them or not really. They have good contact so maybe it wont hurt. I am no mechanic either, I just have a nice set of tools from my Grandpa, an FSM (digital and hard copy), and Ih8mud. Thanks for contributing and following along.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I'm shooting from memory and it's been a while since I touched the fuel rail for my hg job but, isn't the fuel rail torqued to 22 inch pounds? Don't quote me thought it's worth a recheck.

Looking really nice.

There is definitely something that I torqued that was 22 INCH POUNDs but I can not remember what it was now. I may have mentioned it in another post on this thread though.

FSM, SF-32, bottom of page
HINT:
If injectors do not rotate smoothly, the probable cause is incorrect

installation of O−rings. Replace the O−rings.

(i) Position the injector connector upward.

(j) Tighten the 3 bolts holding the delivery pipe to the intake

manifold.

Torque: 21 N·m (210 kgf·cm, 15 ft·lbf)

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Nice work, thanks for posting all this. i am actually doing a lot of the same maintenance myself right now, so this is helpful. I still haven't decided about the EGR delete, but you did a real clean job of it.

I have to ask - did you buy brand new fuel injectors!?? (big $) Why did you go that route as opposed to having yours cleaned by a professional cleaning service?

You are welcome and thanks. It gave me something to do to kill the time since quitting my job, getting a new job, and subsequently being laid off...

I was definitely intimidated by doing the EGR delete, but just decided to go for it as a challenge. Those rear bolts on the EGR pipe were a beotch. It can definitely be done, and there is probably an easier way, but I like to commit when I decide to do something. HA!

I did buy brand new injectors last year from Dan, along with a new reman Alt, the accel cable, throttle kickdown cable, and a few other things. I bought a bunch of other stuff from Beno when I decided it was time to get all these parts on the shelf a home and did not want to leave anything untouched. Lots of money, but I thought I was going to be able to do a quick turn around at the time and I had the money. When it came time to actually do the job, I knew it was not going to be a quick turn around, Not with a 2 month old... I will quite possibly sell my injectors to help recoup the costs. Another member gets first dibs on them. They all seem just fine and I never had an error code with them. I am sure getting cleaned and flow tested they would make great spares to sit in a box on a shelf somewhere.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Looks great, nice 80. Looks clean. One thing I have to comment on is re-installing the valve cover hoses back to the intake. Not sure why after all that cleaning you wouldn't install dual catch cans?

I just kept forgetting to pick some up, and the ones I found online are $$ for the bro-dozer type catch cans. It is on the list though.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I checked my timing. I believe I had everything set up correctly. Prior to adjusting the timing, I was seeing just a needle width above 3. I adjusted to a needle width between 3 and 10 marks, which should be right around 6.5 When I pulled the paperclip after I shut it down and restarted it, my timing was bouncing around between 9-12.

Does that mean my timing is at 9-12 when under control of the ECU or is it at 6.5 when I short the terminals?

I guess I could put it back to where it was and see how it runs with the new injectors before I try to advance the timing.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Here is where my Timing is set with the paperclip removed. Also, my CEL did not blink when I restarted after I inserted said paperclip, but my timing did seem to adjust. I will have to see what my timing says on my Ultraguage if there is a way to do it.

 

[Congo Cruiser]

I

I actually just did not like doing it as they seem like a sensitive but integral part of the electrical system. Not sure it if hurts them or not really. They have good contact so maybe it wont hurt. I am no mechanic either, I just have a nice set of tools from my Grandpa, an FSM (digital and hard copy), and Ih8mud. Thanks for contributing and following along.

Very impressed with all your efforts and work, despite not being a "mechanic."

That's the best thing about these trucks. We can still learn AND work on them.

I've not tackled anything as substantial as you, but it's encouraging to know it's possible.

Nicely done.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Trust me, if you can read, follow the instructions, be patient, and crawl around and under your truck, you can do this job.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I took this video last night right after the first start. I was poking around looking for any leaks, or horrible noises. The car sounds much better in person than on the interwebs. With the new belts and the idler pulley out, the front of the motor is much quieter.

I probably will not get to road test it until tomorrow as I am daddy daycare again and have a birthday party after my oldest gets out of school. Putting the bonnet on with the Two month old in the Ergo might be difficult.

Note: RPM's are high as it had only been running for about 20 seconds and they had not come back down yet. I wished I would have videoed the entire starting process... Oh well. ENJOY.

 

[4G63 POWER]

Sounds great man, like a sewing machine! How did you keep the cel off? This is a bolt on catch can but it is only for one hose.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I have not achieved readiness by driving it yet I am assuming.