- Thread starter
- #41
I like the way you're thinking. Never really thought of doing a supercharger or turbo... Maybe some day, but probably not.
My overdue PM journey. Picture heavy. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter grizzlygibbs
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
I got some work done today, but not "on" the Mountain Goat.
I went and bought a couple small pieces of ¼" steel from the Oxarc Steel division. I told the guy what I was doing and to cut me a piece 6"x6" of ¼" flat stock. He did, and then said, "why don't we just cut you a couple of 3"x2" ¼" flat stock so you do not have to make so many cuts." What a great idea! I went ahead and bought the 6"x6" piece anyway. I figure I can make something useful out of it...
I traced out the shape using the gaskets as templates with some soapstone, warmed up the sawzall, got out my cutting oil and went to town.
Took the rough cut pieces to my Father-in-laws after I picked my daughter up from school. I used the bench grinder to smooth things out a little. Fit the gaskets back on to trace out the holes for the bolts/studs, and then drilled them out.
I love it when a plan goes through.
I went and bought a couple small pieces of ¼" steel from the Oxarc Steel division. I told the guy what I was doing and to cut me a piece 6"x6" of ¼" flat stock. He did, and then said, "why don't we just cut you a couple of 3"x2" ¼" flat stock so you do not have to make so many cuts." What a great idea! I went ahead and bought the 6"x6" piece anyway. I figure I can make something useful out of it...
I traced out the shape using the gaskets as templates with some soapstone, warmed up the sawzall, got out my cutting oil and went to town.
Took the rough cut pieces to my Father-in-laws after I picked my daughter up from school. I used the bench grinder to smooth things out a little. Fit the gaskets back on to trace out the holes for the bolts/studs, and then drilled them out.
I love it when a plan goes through.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #43
It took some doing, but got the new EGR block off installed on the head. This job is definitely not for the weary, make sure if you want to do it, you are prepared for not having to do it for a good long while. I had to rob some bolts off my charcoal canister mount as the stock bolts bottom out on the head with the ¼" plates in place. I put some lock tire on the bolts and torqued them to 40 ft/lbs +/- 10 ft/lbs 
It was a bitch to tighten those bolts.
There is now a plate, where there was previously a pipe.
I also got the Small throttle body heater hose, also known as no. 1 water bypass hose, installed to the head. I struggled with the clamp until I figured out the dang hose and clamp would spin as a unit. Doh. Here is new hose and new oem clamp installed. Tomorrow I will instal PHH bypass with my gates green stripe bypass, the fuel rail with new injectors, and the fuel filter. Hopefully get around to putting the upper intake back on as well.
Hope to get the old mountain goat purring by the weekend!!!
It was a bitch to tighten those bolts.There is now a plate, where there was previously a pipe.
I also got the Small throttle body heater hose, also known as no. 1 water bypass hose, installed to the head. I struggled with the clamp until I figured out the dang hose and clamp would spin as a unit. Doh. Here is new hose and new oem clamp installed. Tomorrow I will instal PHH bypass with my gates green stripe bypass, the fuel rail with new injectors, and the fuel filter. Hopefully get around to putting the upper intake back on as well.
Hope to get the old mountain goat purring by the weekend!!!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #44
Well, I am a little bit stuck on some of the "housekeeping" duties under the bonnet. I have been really good about saving all of my nuts, bolts, and studs but somehow I misplaced the four nuts that hold the fan clutch and pulley on the water pump. I installed the new belts, but now not able to put the fan clutch back on. It is ok, I still have a lot of other things to do. I mentioned I redid the Eaton Fan Clutch with Mugen 15,000 CST. I had previously put 10,000 CST X-Ray silicon oil in the clutch but need a little more roar rather than the 10 seconds I get at start up. I refilled with about 5o ml of 15,000 CST and the remaining 7 ml of 10,000 CST.
I drained the Fan Clutch for a couple nights in the garage and got about 40ml of fluid out. I placed the two sides of the clutch open, along with propping the valve open with a small allen wrench. I then put the fan clutch in a glass baking dish (sorry hun), and placed in the oven on 200 for a couple hours. about 12 more ml came out of both sides of the fan clutch and I wiped some away from both surfaces, plus whatever I could not collect out of the pans with my daughters silicone "play spatula" (Sorry hun).
Pretty straight forward. MUGEN Super Silicone diff fluid purchased from AMain Performance Hobbies
Standard 9x13 pyrex baking dish.
Allen head socket.
Same O-ring and the 4 torx screws.
I drained the Fan Clutch for a couple nights in the garage and got about 40ml of fluid out. I placed the two sides of the clutch open, along with propping the valve open with a small allen wrench. I then put the fan clutch in a glass baking dish (sorry hun), and placed in the oven on 200 for a couple hours. about 12 more ml came out of both sides of the fan clutch and I wiped some away from both surfaces, plus whatever I could not collect out of the pans with my daughters silicone "play spatula" (Sorry hun).
Pretty straight forward. MUGEN Super Silicone diff fluid purchased from AMain Performance Hobbies
Standard 9x13 pyrex baking dish.
Allen head socket.
Same O-ring and the 4 torx screws.
- Thread starter
- #45
I am heading out to the garage to put the new injectors in the fuel rail. I inspected the fuel injector clips and they did not actually break, just made a cracking sound. They still hold fine and do not seem to be broke. I need to put on my gentle gloves today to use care with the injectors when reinstalling the fuel rail.
- Thread starter
- #46
Ok, so I must have been seeing crosseyed last night, I went right out, looked in my organized box of nuts and bolts and I could barely read my own writing on the taped up fan clutch nuts. Oh well, I have a set of those nuts, along with new EGR Intake studs and nuts coming in the morning to my local dealer. Sorry Beno, I was not able to wait for the shipping cross country or overnight fee's. I do appreciate all the stuff you and CDan have got for me over the last 8+ years of ownership. So, now I am going to continue with bolting up the fan clutch, reattaching my shroud, and then get the injectors, and fuel filter on this afternoon.
Once I get all that stuff in, I will put the new/reman alt, start running my battery cables, and install the upper intake. I will see how far I get on that stuff. Hope to get her purring by Sunday.
Once I get all that stuff in, I will put the new/reman alt, start running my battery cables, and install the upper intake. I will see how far I get on that stuff. Hope to get her purring by Sunday.
- Thread starter
- #47
After getting over my fan clutch nut hiccup from last night and early this AM (BTW, they were right where I left them), marked nice and pretty as well...
I got the fan clutch back in along with put the fan shroud back into place. I got the new belts put in as well as the fan clutch. Those nuts can be a pain but if you have a good wrench, they are not so bad. I had replaced the nuts with the last set of belts I put on roughly 5 years ago so they were in good shape.
The AC belt through me for a loop as I could not find the adjusting bolt anywhere. Then I read @IdahoDoug 's famous Changing your belts in 25 minutes thread. Although, I was still not able to get to my tensioner without removing the engine "skid pan." So take the skid pan off and you have great access to the locking bolt on the center of the pulley, as well as the tensioner bolt. Note: my 1" hole did not line up with the tensioner bolt for some reason.
Picture of the tensioner pulley and the tensioner bolt.
obviously the yellow is my OME steering damper.
With the AC belt removed, you can now take out the alternator belts and reinstall. Pretty straight forward.
Unfortunately, I do not have access to the belt tension gauge so just reinstalled the AC belt until it felt tight enough.
With the AC belt back on, I ran into the missing fan clutch nut dilemma, but overcame it when I pulled my head out of arse.
To take out, and reinstall the fan clutch, you need to remove the two top bolts of the fan shroud off the radiator, and separate the fan shroud by lifting it out of the clips at the base of the radiator. This allows you to pull the shroud away from the radiator and to pull out the fan clutch between the shroud and the radiator.
This is an attempt to show the shroud pulled away from the rad to get the fan clutch out. Be sure to put a piece of cardboard or something to protect the fins of the radiator. I like to live on the edge, and I am kind of a ginger so I was really careful to remove the fan clutch.
Next, reinstall fan shroud and bolt it down, and install the fan clutch nuts. It is impossible to get a torque wrench on those nuts so just plan to get them good and tight with your 12mm box wrench. The first few get pretty tight but, you really need to get a pry-bar or long screwdriver to hold the clutch and pulley down so you can get the nuts on good and tight. Wedge the long screwdriver between the hub of the fan clutch and one of the nuts or studs to get a good bite.
I got the fan clutch back in along with put the fan shroud back into place. I got the new belts put in as well as the fan clutch. Those nuts can be a pain but if you have a good wrench, they are not so bad. I had replaced the nuts with the last set of belts I put on roughly 5 years ago so they were in good shape.
The AC belt through me for a loop as I could not find the adjusting bolt anywhere. Then I read @IdahoDoug 's famous Changing your belts in 25 minutes thread. Although, I was still not able to get to my tensioner without removing the engine "skid pan." So take the skid pan off and you have great access to the locking bolt on the center of the pulley, as well as the tensioner bolt. Note: my 1" hole did not line up with the tensioner bolt for some reason.
Picture of the tensioner pulley and the tensioner bolt.
obviously the yellow is my OME steering damper.
With the AC belt removed, you can now take out the alternator belts and reinstall. Pretty straight forward.
Unfortunately, I do not have access to the belt tension gauge so just reinstalled the AC belt until it felt tight enough.
With the AC belt back on, I ran into the missing fan clutch nut dilemma, but overcame it when I pulled my head out of arse.
To take out, and reinstall the fan clutch, you need to remove the two top bolts of the fan shroud off the radiator, and separate the fan shroud by lifting it out of the clips at the base of the radiator. This allows you to pull the shroud away from the radiator and to pull out the fan clutch between the shroud and the radiator.
This is an attempt to show the shroud pulled away from the rad to get the fan clutch out. Be sure to put a piece of cardboard or something to protect the fins of the radiator. I like to live on the edge, and I am kind of a ginger so I was really careful to remove the fan clutch.
Next, reinstall fan shroud and bolt it down, and install the fan clutch nuts. It is impossible to get a torque wrench on those nuts so just plan to get them good and tight with your 12mm box wrench. The first few get pretty tight but, you really need to get a pry-bar or long screwdriver to hold the clutch and pulley down so you can get the nuts on good and tight. Wedge the long screwdriver between the hub of the fan clutch and one of the nuts or studs to get a good bite.
- Thread starter
- #48
Next up on the list, I started working on the fuel rail. I removed the pressure regulator, reinstall and put the new injectors in. Success. I seemed to remember reading somewhere in the FSM to only lubricate the injector parts with fuel. I had anticipated this and got some of my ethanol free gasoline in a clean 1 gal gas can to install the o-rings and insulators on the new fuel injectors.
The injectors went in much easier than anticipated and from what I have read here on mud. I read up on @george_tlc 's task LED website Injector Service His fuel injector service page helped me a lot, but also made me a little anxious about crushing an o-ring or insulator. Overall I think the job went just fine and it was much ado about nothing.
This is what the old rubber bits looked like, crusty and deformed.
prepping the fuel rail on a clean slate.
Prepping the parts. and installing the fuel line from the filter to the fuel rail.
BE SURE TO INSPECT THE BANJO/UNION BOLTS BEFORE INSTALLING NEW CRUSH GASKETS ON THE FUEL LINES. This washer was stuck on as if it was a part of the union bolt.
Next on the list was to lube up the fuel injectors and slip on the rubber bits.
Number one injector success.
The injectors went in much easier than anticipated and from what I have read here on mud. I read up on @george_tlc 's task LED website Injector Service His fuel injector service page helped me a lot, but also made me a little anxious about crushing an o-ring or insulator. Overall I think the job went just fine and it was much ado about nothing.
This is what the old rubber bits looked like, crusty and deformed.
prepping the fuel rail on a clean slate.
Prepping the parts. and installing the fuel line from the filter to the fuel rail.
BE SURE TO INSPECT THE BANJO/UNION BOLTS BEFORE INSTALLING NEW CRUSH GASKETS ON THE FUEL LINES. This washer was stuck on as if it was a part of the union bolt.
Next on the list was to lube up the fuel injectors and slip on the rubber bits.
Number one injector success.
- Thread starter
- #49
George's website states the injectors could fall out when placing the fuel rail into position. Maybe I got lucky as my injectors were pretty dang snug.
Fuel rail all prepped and ready to put into place
Next I installed the new fuel filter. Note the inlet/outlet marks on the filter to make things grizzlygibbs proof
Maybe I am a glutton for punishment but I went ahead and installed the inner nut on the fuel filter, the one that is a royal PITA closest to the head. I installed using the same finger tight bent arm extension tool I used on the valve cover. Worked great to get things snug then I made them just tight enough without having to work so hard at removing next time. The anti-sieze should help with that as well.
Best access is from under the truck to tighten these little guys up.
Fuel rail all prepped and ready to put into place
Next I installed the new fuel filter. Note the inlet/outlet marks on the filter to make things grizzlygibbs proof
Maybe I am a glutton for punishment but I went ahead and installed the inner nut on the fuel filter, the one that is a royal PITA closest to the head. I installed using the same finger tight bent arm extension tool I used on the valve cover. Worked great to get things snug then I made them just tight enough without having to work so hard at removing next time. The anti-sieze should help with that as well.
Best access is from under the truck to tighten these little guys up.
- Thread starter
- #50
I had the fuel rail prepped, the fuel filter and inlet hose in place and torqued to the spec'd 22ft/lbs with the new fuel line crush gaskets in place. Before I placed the fuel rail in the staging area, I followed Georges recommendation to place the injector insulators in the holes on the lower intake after some fine clean up with a gas soaked towel.
Before/after shots of the clean up. My engine bay is dirty so this was necessary to ensure injectors stayed clean on the install.
next, i pulled the shop towels out of the injector holes, inspected for cleanliness and installed the insulators in the holes, rather than on the injectors themselves. Rubber insulators in place with fuel rail in staging area.
Next I gently pressed the fuel rail and injectors into place on the lower plenum. Went without a hitch and I tightened the fuel rail bolts to the specified 15ft/lbs as found on Mud.
NEXT, gently rotate the injectors to insure the o-rings and insulators have movement and do not feel jammed up.
I then bolted the fuel line from the fuel rail to the outlet side of the fuel filter. This is best accessed from under the truck and torqued to 22ft/lbs from above. Fuel system is FIN.
Before/after shots of the clean up. My engine bay is dirty so this was necessary to ensure injectors stayed clean on the install.
next, i pulled the shop towels out of the injector holes, inspected for cleanliness and installed the insulators in the holes, rather than on the injectors themselves. Rubber insulators in place with fuel rail in staging area.
Next I gently pressed the fuel rail and injectors into place on the lower plenum. Went without a hitch and I tightened the fuel rail bolts to the specified 15ft/lbs as found on Mud.
NEXT, gently rotate the injectors to insure the o-rings and insulators have movement and do not feel jammed up.
I then bolted the fuel line from the fuel rail to the outlet side of the fuel filter. This is best accessed from under the truck and torqued to 22ft/lbs from above. Fuel system is FIN.
- Thread starter
- #51
I have a lot more to do tomorrow, and hopefully get this baby purring.
- Thread starter
- #53
Right on @mtrdud. Should be pretty easy with the motor out! 
Just a note from my injectors insight. Do be careful of the tabs on the connector release. Mine were brittle, and even made a cracking sound when removing the injector connector, but I looked at them really good and they did not break or crack from what I could see. They also all seated and locked into place very well on the new injectors.
I recommend sending injectors out for service. If I had known the cruiser was going to be down this long I would have just sent mine out rather than spring for new, but that is when I had a really nice city job and was rolling in the dough... Now I am unemployed and spending more time on this job that I thought I would have. HA.
Some have even bought used injectors and had those sent out. I am considering passing mine along to a member once I am up and running to help offset some of my costs. They are pre-spoken for but not sure I am going to give them up, I guess I will see how the new ones perform.
The steel pieces, I recommend getting the ¼ inch steel precut into 2"x3" plates for under 10 bucks, and more like 5 I should have had mine waterjetted but opted for the "hand forged" look. I may talk to the waterjet guy and consider making up a bunch out of my old gaskets to sell on here if I gage enough interest. Going to get the upper intake and dist cap and wires back into place in the morning in between baby daddy shifts.
Just a note from my injectors insight. Do be careful of the tabs on the connector release. Mine were brittle, and even made a cracking sound when removing the injector connector, but I looked at them really good and they did not break or crack from what I could see. They also all seated and locked into place very well on the new injectors.
I recommend sending injectors out for service. If I had known the cruiser was going to be down this long I would have just sent mine out rather than spring for new, but that is when I had a really nice city job and was rolling in the dough... Now I am unemployed and spending more time on this job that I thought I would have. HA.
Some have even bought used injectors and had those sent out. I am considering passing mine along to a member once I am up and running to help offset some of my costs. They are pre-spoken for but not sure I am going to give them up, I guess I will see how the new ones perform.
The steel pieces, I recommend getting the ¼ inch steel precut into 2"x3" plates for under 10 bucks, and more like 5 I should have had mine waterjetted but opted for the "hand forged" look. I may talk to the waterjet guy and consider making up a bunch out of my old gaskets to sell on here if I gage enough interest. Going to get the upper intake and dist cap and wires back into place in the morning in between baby daddy shifts.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #54
Got a few more things buttoned up yesterday.
Installed distributor with the high tension cords (plug wires) and attached to the spark plugs. Used some craft paint my daughter let me use to paint the sombrero red and reinstalled on valve cover. Easy peasy. I also put in my new Gates Green stripe heater hoses on drivers side and installed my new heater valve.
I plan to get some larger tubing to go around my PHH bypass hose to prevent it from wearing which is why it is not attached yet.
I deleted my VSV, removed it from the upper intake/air chamber and taped up the VSV connector. I then rerouted the vacuum line from the Vacuum Control Valve, VCV, to remove the t-fitting going to the VSV and replaced all of the vacuum hoses from TVV, VCV, VSV for Fuel, and fuel pressure regulator.
With all that done, I cleaned up the lower air chamber/intake manifold surface and prepared to reinstalled upper air chamber/intake manifold. Pretty easy and straight forward.
Here is an after of my upper intake, all cleaned up. Hopefully deleting the EGR will reduce so much carbon build up in the air chamber.
Upper air chamber/intake plenum installed to lower with new metal crush gasket. Torque to 15 ft/lbs. The two rear nuts and last long bolt will need to be accessed from underneath. With the starter out of the way there is a lot more room to torque the intake chamber. Once that is done, you can begin putting things back together on the upper air chamber, like grounds, and the power steering reservoir. This is where things will start looking more "put together."
I am a one man daddy day care today, caring for my 7 week old, and making time for my 7 year old rather than working on the cruiser. I might get a couple hours tonight to get a few bits put in. I want to get the Alternator, the power steering hoses ( low pressure) and the starter/ battery cables put in tonight. Hopefully be ready to start by Sunday night. Fingers crossed.
Installed distributor with the high tension cords (plug wires) and attached to the spark plugs. Used some craft paint my daughter let me use to paint the sombrero red and reinstalled on valve cover. Easy peasy. I also put in my new Gates Green stripe heater hoses on drivers side and installed my new heater valve.
I plan to get some larger tubing to go around my PHH bypass hose to prevent it from wearing which is why it is not attached yet.
I deleted my VSV, removed it from the upper intake/air chamber and taped up the VSV connector. I then rerouted the vacuum line from the Vacuum Control Valve, VCV, to remove the t-fitting going to the VSV and replaced all of the vacuum hoses from TVV, VCV, VSV for Fuel, and fuel pressure regulator.
With all that done, I cleaned up the lower air chamber/intake manifold surface and prepared to reinstalled upper air chamber/intake manifold. Pretty easy and straight forward.
Here is an after of my upper intake, all cleaned up. Hopefully deleting the EGR will reduce so much carbon build up in the air chamber.
Upper air chamber/intake plenum installed to lower with new metal crush gasket. Torque to 15 ft/lbs. The two rear nuts and last long bolt will need to be accessed from underneath. With the starter out of the way there is a lot more room to torque the intake chamber. Once that is done, you can begin putting things back together on the upper air chamber, like grounds, and the power steering reservoir. This is where things will start looking more "put together."
I am a one man daddy day care today, caring for my 7 week old, and making time for my 7 year old rather than working on the cruiser. I might get a couple hours tonight to get a few bits put in. I want to get the Alternator, the power steering hoses ( low pressure) and the starter/ battery cables put in tonight. Hopefully be ready to start by Sunday night. Fingers crossed.
- Thread starter
- #55
When I reinstalled the heater mixing valve, the cable seemed jammed and I was not able to adjust with the thermostat slider in the truck. I am assuming it is electric so I will have to address that when I get the Mountain Goat up and running.
- Thread starter
- #56
I did get an hour to go out and wrench a little on the mountain goat.
Got some more odds and ends tied up. Such as the large power steering res hose, which is as straight forward as pm comes.
I also installed my intake EGR plate, along with new studs and nuts. These studs are only to be torqued to 78 INCH POUNDS. But it can be done with a 5mm socket on the torx heads. Then, install new EGR gasket and new nuts. The nuts are torqued to 13 FOOT POUNDS. New block off plate installed. Ahhh.
I went to Home Depot tonight and got some 1 ¼" ID tubing to act as a sheath for my PHH bypass to prevent damaging PHH from abrasion on the intake. It's pretty sturdy and only $6 for 2 feet. I only used 6".
Got some more odds and ends tied up. Such as the large power steering res hose, which is as straight forward as pm comes.
I also installed my intake EGR plate, along with new studs and nuts. These studs are only to be torqued to 78 INCH POUNDS. But it can be done with a 5mm socket on the torx heads. Then, install new EGR gasket and new nuts. The nuts are torqued to 13 FOOT POUNDS. New block off plate installed. Ahhh.
I went to Home Depot tonight and got some 1 ¼" ID tubing to act as a sheath for my PHH bypass to prevent damaging PHH from abrasion on the intake. It's pretty sturdy and only $6 for 2 feet. I only used 6".
- Thread starter
- #57
Anybody ever use this crap?
- Thread starter
- #58
Got a few things done yesterday. First off I installed a semi solid piece of clear tubing over my PHH bypass to help prevent abrasion against the Gates Green stripe where I snaked it through next to the accelerator cable and the intake. $6 bucks for 2 feet at the Home Depot, precut. It is 1¼" inside diameter which is perfect for slipping over the Gates Green Stripe. I used about 6" and slid it over my PHH bypass hose before attaching it to my new Heater valve.
I also installed my EGR back off plate on the upper intake with my new EGR studs and nuts. If your Torx heads on the EGR studs are still in good shape, they can be removed and reinstalled using a 5mm socket. Makes it easier than trying to double nut. Do not torque these down too hard, It does not take much to break things. The studs are 78 INCH pounds, and the nuts are 15 FOOT pounds.
Note, the empty bolt hole where the PHH tube ran next to the EGR can be left out if you were able to get the tube out.
I also installed my EGR back off plate on the upper intake with my new EGR studs and nuts. If your Torx heads on the EGR studs are still in good shape, they can be removed and reinstalled using a 5mm socket. Makes it easier than trying to double nut. Do not torque these down too hard, It does not take much to break things. The studs are 78 INCH pounds, and the nuts are 15 FOOT pounds.
Note, the empty bolt hole where the PHH tube ran next to the EGR can be left out if you were able to get the tube out.
- Thread starter
- #59
Late last night, I snuck out and played in the garage from 930 to about midnight. I got the throttle body cleaned up, put on some new vacuum hoses, as well as the new vent hoses and PCV hoses on. The TB install is straight forward, but kind of a pain to get the hoses back on. HINT: preinstall the hose clamps in a fashion that will give you easy access with a long pair of needle nose pliers. I installed the number 2 heater hose on the throttle body and the number 1 hose was installed on the cylinder head while the fuel filter was out. The number one hose is easy to install with the EGR valve out. 
The number 2 hose takes some finagling to slip over the nipple.
I am opting to not install the idler pulley. The bearing is not completely shot but there is some movement. I was looking through my box of bolts and did not have a suitable replacement, so I stacked some washers to space out the bolt that holds the idler pulley in place. I may opt to get a bolt as I feel the bolt sticks out too far. I have heard it is important to put the bolt back as oil can weep out of the hole, which also means it will be exposed to the elements.
I also drained out the radiator and have "rinsed" it a couple of times but wont get a good couple of flushes until I get it up and running. I am switching to Prestone Green as part of my PM as Toyota Red is expensive and not as easily accessible.
Next up I installed my reman Toyota alt. Very straight forward and easy to do with the power steering reservoir still out of the way. With alt in place, attach the wires then thread the upper Pivot bolt through the alternator. Do not tighten down until you get the belt tension set.
Nice and shiny.
You may have to get the alternator adjusting bolt almost completely out of the adjusting block to get the new belts on. I just got them tight enough, as I do not have a belt gauge.
My stacked washer set where Idler pulley used to be. I will likely change this tomorrow before I try starting. There is ½" between the washers and the belts but I would like something that sits more flush.
If I get a couple hours tonight, I am going to throw in my new battery cables and grounds from Fourrunner and reinstall the starter. The to-do list is getting shorter and shorter!
The number 2 hose takes some finagling to slip over the nipple.
I am opting to not install the idler pulley. The bearing is not completely shot but there is some movement. I was looking through my box of bolts and did not have a suitable replacement, so I stacked some washers to space out the bolt that holds the idler pulley in place. I may opt to get a bolt as I feel the bolt sticks out too far. I have heard it is important to put the bolt back as oil can weep out of the hole, which also means it will be exposed to the elements.
I also drained out the radiator and have "rinsed" it a couple of times but wont get a good couple of flushes until I get it up and running. I am switching to Prestone Green as part of my PM as Toyota Red is expensive and not as easily accessible.
Next up I installed my reman Toyota alt. Very straight forward and easy to do with the power steering reservoir still out of the way. With alt in place, attach the wires then thread the upper Pivot bolt through the alternator. Do not tighten down until you get the belt tension set.
Nice and shiny.
You may have to get the alternator adjusting bolt almost completely out of the adjusting block to get the new belts on. I just got them tight enough, as I do not have a belt gauge.
My stacked washer set where Idler pulley used to be. I will likely change this tomorrow before I try starting. There is ½" between the washers and the belts but I would like something that sits more flush.
If I get a couple hours tonight, I am going to throw in my new battery cables and grounds from Fourrunner and reinstall the starter. The to-do list is getting shorter and shorter!
- Thread starter
- #60
I will probably get some flak for this, but I also drilled out my fusible links wire, to work with my Military Terminals I got from Fourrunner. I debated just installing a ⅜" lug to the fusible links, but thought the slight amount I would drill out would not hurt anything. I have a spare set in the glovebox in case it does not and I may switch to a Marine style terminal instead.
