My overdue PM journey. Picture heavy.

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by grizzlygibbs, Jan 16, 2016.

  1. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    I have been accumulating boxes and boxes of parts I have accumulated the last year and a half from Dan and Onur that I am finally getting around to installing, along with doing some other cleaning up and refreshening to the old Mountain Goat.

    The game plan: New fuel filter, new fuel sock, new fuel regulator, new fuel injectors, reman alt as mine is going out (still charging but dimming lights horribly with other accessories on), new belts, new intake hose, increasing from 10k to 15k cst for the fan clutch, all new firewall and radiator hoses, rad cap, a sweet TEQ oil cap, fuel cap, spark plugs, valve cover gasket, and fresh oil change, new battery cables from @Fourrunner, and my BH3D TEQ front emblem from @bhicks. I am probably forgetting some of the things I am going through.

    The last couple days I have been wrenching an hour or two at a time due to helping out with the one month old. I started out by removing the bonnet. It is so much easier to get to everything I need with the lid suspended from the rafters.

    I got the upper plenum off, removed alternator, removed distributor/installed new o-ring, got the valve cover off, removed alternator, removed and draining the fan clutch, removed distributor/ re-installed with new o-ring. The spark plugs looked great, no indication of steam cleaning. I "should have" done the head gasket tests but there has never been any indication of problems in that department (insert knock on wood smiley here). Today I will remove fuel rail, fuel filter, filter sock, and installing my new battery cables.

    Now I am going to consider junking my EGR the "mostly Toyota way" ;) I am already in there so I am highly considering removing the pipe, grinding out a block off plate, and ridding myself of this monstrosity if i can get to the bolts for the egr tube. I was just into the Mountain Goat I will assess if it can be done with lower intake on or if I should just pull the lower intake since I am already so close.

    IMG_8116.JPG
     
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  2. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    I started out by removing the seats to access the fuel tank, the front seats to extend the gray wire for the keyless entry, and then the battery and the battery box. Painless.

    Next up, I took out the air intake tube, throttle body, after disconnecting the cables, and the alternator. Oh yeah, I also threw on my TEQ badge from @bhicks just to make sure it fit ;)
    My throttle body EGR port already had some crud built up on it after I removed it all a few years ago... IMG_8125.JPG IMG_8126.JPG IMG_8129.JPG IMG_8133.JPG IMG_8125.JPG
     
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  3. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    Next I removed spark plug wires, Dizzy cap, and rotated crank to TDC. Spark Plugs removed using my handy Toyota spark plug remover dealy. They all looked great after only a few years of service. Nothing remarkable about them I can tell. Spark plugs arranged as #6 on top of picture, #1 on bottom of picture.


    IMG_8135.JPG IMG_8136.JPG
    This shows where the roto sits when crank is at top dead center

    Note: you can turn the crank pulley nut by using a 1-3/16 open end wrench or socket
    IMG_8139.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2016
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  4. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    Next, I started unbolting the upper intake plenum. I am no stranger to this job as I have completed it before. This round things went much smoother. The studs and bolts arranged in order. I forgot there where 8 total fasteners, which is why there are two #1's and two #6's. I took pictures of my extention setup. #6 and #6 inside are the only two that really "need" to access from under the truck. There is just enough wiggle room next to the steering column for #6 nut and stud. For the #6 inside bolt you can run your extension setup right next to the starter to reach. I used one of those wobble extensions near my socket and rotating ratchet that allow just enough wobble to get the bolts/nut studs off. These are all 12 mm socket heads. IMG_8161.jpg IMG_8154.JPG IMG_8155.JPG IMG_8163.JPG

    This shows my extension set attached to #6 inside bolt, running near the starter and block IMG_8165.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2016
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  5. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    A couple of light taps with my trusty rubber BFH, and the upper plenum came right off.

    I also forgot I removed the EGR where it bolts to the upper plenum. The FSM calls for using the double nut to remove the studs after removing the large nut, which can be easily removed using a 1-¼" open end wrench.

    The upper and lower plenum are filthy dirty, with lots of varnish and deposits. I am now contemplating removing the lower plenum for easier access to the egr pipe for a complete delete. No emissions tests here in the middle of the state ;)

    EDIT: The lower intake manifold can not be removed from the head without damaging or removing the engine wiring harness. IMG_8167.JPG IMG_8170.JPG IMG_8171.JPG IMG_8172.JPG IMG_8174.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2016
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  6. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    I then cleaned as best I could the valve cover area and removed the bolts. The rear bolts near the firewall were the hardest. Luckily I inherited an amazing tool collection from my Grandfather, who was an airplane mechanic and inspector in Idaho. I used an angled adapter that fits a socket on one end and a ratchet on the other. It made getting those hard to reach bolts much easier. I do not believe this tool allows for applying much torque though, so assembly may be a little more challenging.

    Removing the firewall heater hoses was a must as I did not want to reef on them too much. Good thing I have more sitting in a box... ;)

    I now have great access to the fuel rail and the injectors.

    How do you think my valves/cams look? I have no idea how to adjust or use feeler gauges. I will search through other threads as well. IMG_8182.JPG IMG_8184.JPG

    Is all of this buildup normal on the inside of the head near the timing gear and dizzy shaft?

    IMG_8186.JPG IMG_8182.JPG IMG_8184.JPG IMG_8186.JPG IMG_8190.JPG

    The Magic tool

    IMG_8183.JPG IMG_8190.JPG .
     
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  7. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    Next I removed the Distributor as a whole after making a couple of marks where the timing was set. I cleaned the shaft and gears off a bit, installed a new o-ring in place of the crusty old one, and reinstalled the dizzy. With the valve cover off, I felt much more comfortable getting the teeth realigned.

    Note, I already had the crank at TDC using the mark on the crank pulley and checking for TDC by rotor placement at the 1030/1100 o'clock position. I already had a picture of the rotor placement at TDC. I installed dizzy and thought it looked off. I was right. Readjusted by one tooth and got it right.
    IMG_8191.JPG

    Realizing it did not look to be in the same position, I pulled the shaft slightly out, and readjusted the gear by one tooth and reinstalled. Success. The tooth placement gave a whole lot of movement from what I was expecting after reading other threads. Just for your reference, take a photo of your rotor placement when installing new o-ring on dizzy shaft and you should be able to place dizzy back on with no issues, getting things back to the way they were. I am still going to re-time after this job, but just wanted to get it back close to where it was. IMG_8192.JPG
     
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  8. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    I am heading back out to the garage this morning.

    Any tips on removing EGR pipe that do not involve pulling the head :hillbilly:? I will poke around and see what I can do.

    If not, I guess I will just keep the dang emissions... I bought enough of the vacuum line to stretch around a ¼ mile track.
     
  9. JaketheSSnake

    JaketheSSnake SILVER Star

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    Nothing to add, but keep the pics coming! I'll be doing a lot of the same stuff on mine fairly soon. Nice to see what I'll be getting in to.
     
  10. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    I will keep everything coming. This was my stopping point last night so will take some time to get more pictures. Hope this will help people out!
     
  11. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    Without me searching, What do I need to keep under the intake if I remove the egr?
     
  12. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    Did not get as much done as I had hoped to today. Still investigating whether or not to pull lower intake to get to the EGR pipe bolted to the head. Not sure What vacuum lines I can get rid of under the hood if I do this. If I do, I will likely dump my charcoal can and just have it vent into the drivers fender with a fuel filter or something. Would like to make more room under the hood for more activities.
     
  13. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    I did remove the fuel pump and replace my fuel tank sock, today.

    To do this, it is best to remove the middle row seats.
    IMG_8193.JPG
    I simply unbolted and moved them to the back cargo area. Then remove the drivers side step and door sill, and the rear cargo carpeting from the little plastic clip holding it to the floor. This will allow you to peel back the carpeting enough to get to the fuel tank inspection port.

    Once open, remove the three screws and pry off inspection port cover.

    Clean area as best as you can to prevent dust from falling into gas tank.

    IMG_8197.JPG

    Remove the bolts, disconnect fuel line and electrical connection, and unbolt the union bolt using a 17mm socket or wrench.

    IMG_8202.JPG I

    Once everything is removed, you can remove the fuel pump assembly. Use care when removing as the float seems to get hung up on the baffle and the pump is full of fuel. Try not to spill too much or knock debris into the tank.

    IMG_8204.JPG


    Notice my filter has debris near the fuel pump uptake.

    IMG_8205.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2016
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  14. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    A rubber stopper is holding the fuel pump in place, rotate fuel pump away from bracket and remove rubber stopper.

    IMG_8207.JPG

    IMG_8208.JPG
    Remove clip from fuel sock. remove fuel sock and replace with new. The FSM calls for a new fuel sock clip. I could not for the life of me get my new clip on, so I reused the old one. It had a good hold so I was not worried about it falling off. The fuel sock was also very hard to put on so I stretched it out slightly and VERY lightly tapped it into place. Reassemble and put assembly back into the tank. It will only go in one way and be gentle to not snag anything on the baffles.

    IMG_8210.JPG
    IMG_8221.JPG


    Replace all of the screws for the fuel pump. The FSM calls for 35 INCH pounds for the screws and 22 FOOT pounds for the union/banjo bolt. Being weird, I marked the orientation of the holes with a sharpie on the top of the bolt. 22 foot pounds caused the holes in the union bolt to be perpendicular to fuel pipe so I used slightly more. Your methods may vary and I do not condone this. You do not want to strip this union bolt flange out.

    IMG_8228.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2016
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  15. Dokken

    Dokken

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    Awesome!
     
  16. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    I have a lot of questions. How do my cam/valves look. It looks pretty crusty to me. Ill effects or run it? Also, a few of the lobes do not look as shiny, I guess I need to really figure out how to check the clearances...

    What is this in the picture below? It is near the number 2 cylinder in the head with two vacuum lines coming out. The vacuum lines were disconnected from under the upper intake somehow. I think they may have been yanked last month when my wife had the oil changed as they are right near the oil filter.
    IMG_8177.JPG
     
  17. excessive

    excessive

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    i think the valvetrain looks pretty normal for a vehicle w/ over 200k miles
     
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  18. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    150,000, but whose counting :hillbilly:
     
  19. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    I found out that is the TVV, Thermal vacuum valve? I still am not quite sure what it does after reading in the fsm, but goes to the vsv for fuel.
     
  20. grizzlygibbs

    grizzlygibbs

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    Today was more like a zero day. I basically got nothing done on account of I did not order all the hoses and parts that I needed. I have this habit of forgetting to order stuff when I hit the send button on me email's, then I remember after the fact or when I am tore into everything...

    I did clean up the valve cover a little bit to prep it for paint tomorrow, along with puched out the half moons. Those seem like the silliest thing. Why didn't they juts make the head level?



    I will likely get some aluminum wheel cleaner/acid cleaner as the brake fluid did not power away all the grime that was on the outside of the cover. I will take some pictures of how the cover turns out.

    I was going to take the fuel rail out today, but decided I would wait until I can get the valve cover back on.

    I started taking out the fuel filter and I could not get the bolt closest to the block broke free. It is an actual PITA. I just replaced it like 4-5 years ago, but I am doing everything else and I had an extra on the shelf so why the eff not. I got really frustrated and just had to walk away from it all.

    the site is sure is giving me a hard time uploading pictures yesterday and today.
     
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