Builds My Costa Rican BJ40 search begins

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I have been doing my swap in an average sizedaily 2 car garage, I can't wait to see what it's like working on a 40 in there.
 
It's a M8000 that I previously had on my Jeep Liberty.
 
Today I decided to finish the disc brake front axle that will be swapped in. It had been left unattended since I smashed my toe with the birf. I do still need to find a brake booster and replace the master before it goes underneath. Finished it wearing the same pair of flip flops.:)
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Both Land Cruisers put away for the next week due to work out of town. I still need to do some more garage rearranging to make some more space.
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I ordered some ProCar Pro-90 series seats and brackets last night. I thought about putting the Land Rover seats I have in the garage in but I don't feel like making them work. Plus I'm already hours in on adapting them into the 80 and I'm not even close to finishing. The Pro-90 look decent and the price seems right. I still need to get some seat belts as I don't think I will pass inspection with the s***ty ones that are in it now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L1IM1A/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I have started to research and collect parts for power steering conversion. My spending always seems to happen when I have downtown during work trips. Boredom sets in I guess. I managed to get most everything that mounts on the block from @joekatana. As for steering box I will be using the 80 series box and shaft off my parts rig. Still need to figure out the best way to mate it to the 40 column.

I am also trying to figure out what booster and MC to install when I throw the rebuilt disc brake front axle under it. I have heard that 4runner boosters will work. Plenty of them in the pick n pulls locally. I also have one on my LX parts rig if it could work. Any suggestions?
 
After everything you've been through? And you're worrying NOW about pricey?:rolleyes:

Sorry, couldn't resist....
 
After everything you've been through? And you're worrying NOW about pricey?:rolleyes:

Sorry, couldn't resist....
Ha. Very true but I still try to have a budget. Although with many of the parts I am looking for you must scoop them up when you find them otherwise someone else will. Especially the parts that are no longer available.
 
I got back home late last night from Canada to find part boxes in the house. Always a good time when that happens. ProCar seats came in and some small items from @beno. I'll get some photos of the seats once I unbox them. The other items are what I consider no fun items. The functional parts that no one will notice.
Trasmission and transfer case shifter boots. Both are presently ripped and not connected to the floor.
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Diesel fuel cap. This will replace the aftermarket keyed version that came with the 40. I don't see the need to use two keys just to refuel. Maybe in Costa Rica they have a problem with fuel theft?
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Radiator cap. Also will replace an after market one of unknown age.
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Rear door lock cylinder. This was missing when purchased.
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Stayed home from work today and wanted to swapped the seats but hit a snag. The original seat brackets are gone so I can't mount the Pro Car brackets. So I ordered up some original style brackets fro CCOT because it was way to hot to break out the welder and fab something up.
I also tried to figure out if my glow plugs work since the indicator doesn't glow but the relay clicks. However it does get hot because I burned my fingers when I reached up to remove it. Maybe not getting hot enough to glow red?
 
I also tried to figure out if my glow plugs work since the indicator doesn't glow but the relay clicks. However it does get hot because I burned my fingers when I reached up to remove it. Maybe not getting hot enough to glow red?

Depends on the glow plugs. If they are "new" energy saving plugs they'll draw not enough amps to make the controller glow.
The original 1970 plugs (8.5V) draw 10 Amp each, so 40 Amps in total.
The new plugs I bought were "energy savers" (8 Amp each) but worked fine. Total draw is 32 Amps which is not enough for the controller to lit up.

Rudi
 
Depends on the glow plugs. If they are "new" energy saving plugs they'll draw not enough amps to make the controller glow.
The original 1970 plugs (8.5V) draw 10 Amp each, so 40 Amps in total.
The new plugs I bought were "energy savers" (8 Amp each) but worked fine. Total draw is 32 Amps which is not enough for the controller to lit up.

Rudi
I should have wrote down the part number on the plug when I removed one to see how it looked. Need to go back and do that. I did confirm it was a 8.5v plug.
 
Depends on the glow plugs. If they are "new" energy saving plugs they'll draw not enough amps to make the controller glow.
The original 1970 plugs (8.5V) draw 10 Amp each, so 40 Amps in total.
The new plugs I bought were "energy savers" (8 Amp each) but worked fine. Total draw is 32 Amps which is not enough for the controller to lit up.

Rudi
Do you know if the indicator used in forklifts works the same way with the 40amp draw? I would like the indicator to work at least when the wife drives.
 
Don't know, but should be the same system.
I used a little light in the empty socket next to the parking light.
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I used a 12V bulb and hooked it up to the glow bar (8.5V) so it shows that the glow plugs are working.
And, Yes, I'm a control freak.

Rudi
 

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