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Curiosity, does the auto require hacking the floor or trans cover much?
 
Curiosity, does the auto require hacking the floor or trans cover much?

Its an auto so it can be on the roof if i wanted. The transfer case shifter is pretty close to the OE location tho. I didn't do the repower but it looks like they let the shifter dictate the engine location. I wish the motor was 2"-3" further back so i had more room behind the radiator.
 
Oh, i guess you were't asking about the shifter. No, the hump is perfectly intact.
 
Yeah, *if* I repower mine I'd rather not hack the trans tunnel up, good to know it fits.
 
Made progress on Sunday and today. Cut and tapped the push rod. Got the clevis on and set to length.
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I welded in the old holes and spritz some paint on it.
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The unit is bolted in and the peddle is set with a smidge of play. Put a gasket between the firewall and the plate.
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We got all the brake lines plumbed into the proportion valve and out to the wheels.
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Here I have the pressure lines set on the pu.p and will need to attach them to the pump and steering box. It should all fit pretty good.
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Looking good. You will be so pleased with the hydroboost. Night and day difference when I put it in my old town wagon. Main reason I’m using it on Coyote.
 
Made progress on Sunday and today

What size bore is that master cylinder?

FYI, I tried one from a Chevy Astro van and it was 1.3125” and I hated the pedal feel with the Toyota calipers, I run a 1.1250” bore master now and I have more pedal movement and stronger brakes.
 
I think it is 1.25
 
Thanks.
I don't know but I think I'm going to hit with the rattle can.
 
Pedal feel is an important part of sizing the master, on a 510 it's a big jump in pedal effort between 7/8 and 15/16 master, your talking about an even bigger range.

Let us know how it feels once your test driving....smaller bore master will have more pedal travel but better feel.
 
I'm curious how it will feel too. The system I had is no bases for comparison. I have 4 wheel disc but it felt like they used the manual MC. At idle in 4 low it would push thru my braking unless I stomped with both feet. Down a hill i had to drop in nutral.
 
I have 4 wheel disc but it felt like they used the manual MC

This is the thread I started when I was working out the details on my brake system( 1990 Toyota Truck Pickup Brake Caliper – Front upgrade? ), it has some part numbers and piston sizes for the different Toyota calipers that work on the 55 axle.

I ended up with s13wb on the front and s12wb calipers on the rear, after talking to the engineer at Baer Brakes his recommendation was a 1.125” bore master with the Hydro boost (smaller if using vacuum assist).

If you’re using small piston calipers your 1.250” master might have a short hard feel,
 
I might be able to start it today and see. I have the Wilwood 4 piston in front and a mystery Chrysler single in the rear. maybe ill be able to do stoppies.
 
Got all the pressure lines in and bled the MC. Put in new plug wires and oil and filter. Started it up amd set the timing. We ran oit of time and didnt get a chance to bleed all of the lines. So i didn't get to drive it. Maybe tomorrow.

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Bled the brakes today. Took it for a spin and it is awesome. Stops on a dime and I get some change back. The tuneup and better timing set was nice too. Happy pig owner here.
 

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