LX570 AHC height modifications (lift it!) (3 Viewers)

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Does anyone think that the longer lengths of the already tested Tundra conversion would create too much leverage for the pressure of the AHC to still function properly with longevity?

To the suspension, it wouldn't be much different then say, adding a front bumper. It's just more load. The front end in particular is capable of handling more load while maintaining flat cornering and minimal brake dive, as it implements two spring rates that it can dynamically switch between. You can also augment the front for more load via the tundra spring spacers, or perhaps source diesel LX450d AHC springs from overseas. Perhaps the aftermarket may eventually offer something, but it's pretty robust to handling more load even stock.
 
To the suspension, it wouldn't be much different then say, adding a front bumper. It's just more load. The front end in particular is capable of handling more load while maintaining flat cornering and minimal brake dive, as it implements two spring rates that it can dynamically switch between. You can also augment the front for more load via the tundra spring spacers, or perhaps source diesel LX450d AHC springs from overseas. Perhaps the aftermarket may eventually offer something, but it's pretty robust to handling more load even stock.

Well, that’s what I like to hear. 👍 Now to find out more from @mcgaskins friend or see someone on here do it and document it. Keep pushing these little lux rides
 
I was thumbing through the IG last month when I came across the below pic from a guy I think is on Mud - andrewpounder.
:censor: I say to myself and now I'm looking for LX570s on cargurus app. In the IG post he says he only does the sensor lift (like what's mentioned already) and then fit the 35s with some trimming and a body mount chop. This is what I want:
View attachment 1921138
That's his pic not mine.
On my 2006 AHC equipped 100 series, I lifted it about 2" and kept the AHC working great. I bought the Japan4X4 spacers for the shocks. They are a simple kit between the bottom of the AHC shock and the LCA in front and rear spring mount in rear. I added the King springs (not to be confused with KINGS in the US) already mentioned and cranked the t-bars. And I adjusted the AHC sensors.
From reading here, it seems like adjusting sensors and the shock spacers is all that has been attempted. Has anyone tried a stiffer spring in the back (like the OEM LC200) instead of a spacer? Has anyone tried using shock spacers?
Shock spacer on a 100:
View attachment 1921141
Again, not my pic.

Keep in mind the KO2's tend to run small vs. most of the options out there. If you tried the same setup with a "same size" NITTO for example you might find more rubbing. With that said it looks awesome! I am running a 34x11R20 and plan to go to a 35x11.5R20 next.

Regarding the body mount chop, I wouldn't hesitate to do it to my LX. I did the BMC on my FJ. Some people chopped off the end of the mount, sprayed a little paint over it to keep it from rusting and called it a day. I hadn't seen any reports of people having issues with this setup.

Still it seemed a little incomplete to me. I welded a new end cap over mine, super easy. I just cut some metal plate to the height/width I need. Welded one end on then used a 5 lb dead blow to hammer the plate to the contour of my cut, welded it all up and sprayed some paint on it. You can see I melted the mount ever so slightly, this actually happened from the metal heating up while I was cutting it, not while I was welding. The steel on these frames is pretty tough stuff, on the second mount I did the cut in thirds letting the metal cool between sessions and had no melting issues.

6779467557_c44a7cc6c4_b.jpg


Took maybe an hour and two beers to do both side.
 
Keep in mind the KO2's tend to run small vs. most of the options out there. If you tried the same setup with a "same size" NITTO for example you might find more rubbing. With that said it looks awesome! I am running a 34x11R20 and plan to go to a 35x11.5R20 next.

Regarding the body mount chop, I wouldn't hesitate to do it to my LX. I did the BMC on my FJ. Some people chopped off the end of the mount, sprayed a little paint over it to keep it from rusting and called it a day. I hadn't seen any reports of people having issues with this setup.

Still it seemed a little incomplete to me. I welded a new end cap over mine, super easy. I just cut some metal plate to the height/width I need. Welded one end on then used a 5 lb dead blow to hammer the plate to the contour of my cut, welded it all up and sprayed some paint on it. You can see I melted the mount ever so slightly, this actually happened from the metal heating up while I was cutting it, not while I was welding. The steel on these frames is pretty tough stuff, on the second mount I did the cut in thirds letting the metal cool between sessions and had no melting issues.

6779467557_c44a7cc6c4_b.jpg


Took maybe an hour and two beers to do both side.
So you don't think you'll have issues fitting the 35x11.5? I assume you already know if you have the clearance or not since you have 34s on there now. Do you have pics somewhere of this setup?

Off topic, but sorta related, would it be possible to run the same diameter tire but with smaller wheels, like 18" or even 17"?
 
So you don't think you'll have issues fitting the 35x11.5? I assume you already know if you have the clearance or not since you have 34s on there now. Do you have pics somewhere of this setup?

Off topic, but sorta related, would it be possible to run the same diameter tire but with smaller wheels, like 18" or even 17"?

Sure.
10DC8383-E62C-4BA1-8507-A74969CB7103.jpeg


The overall diameter and width of the tire matter. The offset of the wheel matters. But the diameter of the wheel makes no real difference. A 34x11 on a 17” rim isn’t going to be significantly different than a 34x11 on a 20” rim with the same offset.
 
The overall diameter and width of the tire matter. The offset of the wheel matters. But the diameter of the wheel makes no real difference. A 34x11 on a 17” rim isn’t going to be significantly different than a 34x11 on a 20” rim with the same offset.
Whoops, I can see my question was not very clear. I was just asking if a 17" could even fit but that's another topic.
Do you think the 35x11.5 will still squeeze? Is there a more narrow 35" on 20" wheel?
 
Whoops, I can see my question was not very clear. I was just asking if a 17" could even fit but that's another topic.
Do you think the 35x11.5 will still squeeze? Is there a more narrow 35" on 20" wheel?
To answer your question, yes, lots of 17" options that will fit the 200 series just fine. And honestly for my use going to 17's makes the most sense. But after years of really "showy" overland and rock crawler builds I want to keep the LX as low key as possible so I'm going to keep the stock 20's on it.

I'm looking at a 285/65R20 which converts directly to 34.6" x 11.2" R 20. Which is about as narrow as I think you will find, and should be just about the same diameter as the 35x12.50 KO2's just a bit skinnier. From the fit of my current 34's I think I will be fine. Might need a little more trimming. Might need to do a Body Mount Chop, but nothing crazy.

Here is what I am running today:
Wildpeak A/T3W 275/65R20 Tire Specs
SizeDiameterWidthRim
Range
Measured
Rim
Tread
Depth
Load
Range
Max
Load
Max
psi
Max
Speed
WeightSidewall
Letters
Revs/Mile
LT275/65R20
126/123S E BSW
34.1"10.6"7.5-9.5"8"18/32"E - 10 ply3750/3415 lbs80 psi112 mph66.1 lbsBlack611


Here are the BFG 35's in the LX570 posted above:
All-Terrain T/A KO2 35X12.50R20 Tire Specs
SizeDiameterWidthRim
Range
Measured
Rim
Tread
Depth
Load
Range
Max
Load
Max
psi
Max
Speed
WeightSidewall
Letters
Revs/Mile
35X12.50R20LT
121R E BSW
34.5"12.5"8.5-11"10"15/32"E - 10 ply3195 lbs75 psi106 mph66.8 lbsBlack602

Here is the tire I intend to run next:
Wildpeak A/T3W 285/65R20 Tire Specs
SizeDiameterWidthRim
Range
Measured
Rim
Tread
Depth
Load
Range
Max
Load
Max
psi
Max
Speed
WeightSidewall
Letters
Revs/Mile
LT285/65R20
127/124R E BSW
34.57"11.2"8-10"8.5"17/32"E - 10 ply3860/3525 lbs80 psi106 mph67.7 lbsBlack601

A wider tire definitely adds more visual size compared to a skinnier tire. and you're typically gaining more lateral stability and grip on road with a wider tire. I don't drive the LX every day and most of the miles it sees are in the snow and on the trail and in both conditions I prefer a skinnier tire.
 
To answer your question, yes, lots of 17" options that will fit the 200 series just fine. And honestly for my use going to 17's makes the most sense. But after years of really "showy" overland and rock crawler builds I want to keep the LX as low key as possible so I'm going to keep the stock 20's on it.

I'm looking at a 285/65R20 which converts directly to 34.6" x 11.2" R 20. Which is about as narrow as I think you will find, and should be just about the same diameter as the 35x12.50 KO2's just a bit skinnier. From the fit of my current 34's I think I will be fine. Might need a little more trimming. Might need to do a Body Mount Chop, but nothing crazy.
Awesome. Thanks!
I agree with keeping it low-key. But I would prefer a little more sidewall for practical reasons. I think the 34"-35" on 17" or 18" with a hidden winch mount is what I'd stop with.
 
Hi, just referring back to what dubyahard said in a previous post - has anyone tried/found suitable AHC Shock Spacers for LC200? Those are to raise the lower anchor points of front and rear AHC shocks. Matching these with a simple sensor-lift would just maintain (approximately) the appropriate neutral AHC pressure without the need to touch anything else. Any idea?
 
Hi, just referring back to what dubyahard said in a previous post - has anyone tried/found suitable AHC Shock Spacers for LC200? Those are to raise the lower anchor points of front and rear AHC shocks. Matching these with a simple sensor-lift would just maintain (approximately) the appropriate neutral AHC pressure without the need to touch anything else. Any idea?
I haven't got my hands on an LX but the brackets for the 100 series are pretty simple and help with keeping pressures in range while providing lift via sensor adjustment and torsion bar twisting.
 
Reviewing while I wait for the 275/80r18s to arrive. Beginning to believe that 35.3” diameter might be a lot. Looks like BMC for sure and hoping I can get enough. Went out and measured today and the fronts will be into the rear of the fender wheel down by the rocker for sure.
 
Hi, just referring back to what dubyahard said in a previous post - has anyone tried/found suitable AHC Shock Spacers for LC200? Those are to raise the lower anchor points of front and rear AHC shocks. Matching these with a simple sensor-lift would just maintain (approximately) the appropriate neutral AHC pressure without the need to touch anything else. Any idea?

Easy solution. LC shock spacer will work for the LX. May also have the additional benefit of adding droop travel, and increasing suspension stoke overall.

Front Coil Spacer - Increased Suspension Stroke?
 
Reviewing while I wait for the 275/80r18s to arrive. Beginning to believe that 35.3” diameter might be a lot. Looks like BMC for sure and hoping I can get enough. Went out and measured today and the fronts will be into the rear of the fender wheel down by the rocker for sure.

That's a giant diameter tire. I want to see it happen!

You may need a layered strategy of BMC and UCAs to make enough rearward clearance. Keep a higher offset (~45) if possible as low offsets will just exacerbate clearance issues. I think you're going to need a slight .5" body lift too.
 
Offset is going to be 35mm. I have 60mm rims and 25mm spacers. I suppose if that ends up being the only thing I need aside from the bmc I can get 18mm spacers and go to 42.

I’m not digging a body lift. Might look at custom fender liners instead.
 
IIRC, there's a hardpoint in the rear tire well that'll be a clearance concern with this size tire. May want to consult with some LC's that run 35s. You'll be bigger than those tires.

Any particular reason you don't like body lifts? I think a small one is reasonable to do.
 
Nothing against it, just hoping to keep it relatively simple. The tires are 2” natural lift already . . . Body lift mostly for show, I’m not much for show.
 
Reviewing while I wait for the 275/80r18s to arrive. Beginning to believe that 35.3” diameter might be a lot. Looks like BMC for sure and hoping I can get enough. Went out and measured today and the fronts will be into the rear of the fender wheel down by the rocker for sure.

Very interested in seeing this. What tire are you running in that size, Kenda Klevers?
 
Very interested in seeing this. What tire are you running in that size, Kenda Klevers?
That is the plan. I also like the mile star Patagonia m/t but the 35x12.5r18 version also is a bit plus sized (35.1 if I remember) and its 45 mm wider. I figured it would be even harder to fit.

Still waiting on the tires to arrive. Should have the install all wrapped up by mid-May.
 
That is the plan. I also like the mile star Patagonia m/t but the 35x12.5r18 version also is a bit plus sized (35.1 if I remember) and its 45 mm wider. I figured it would be even harder to fit.

Still waiting on the tires to arrive. Should have the install all wrapped up by mid-May.

I think you’ll have a much easier time with the pizza cutters, can’t wait to see it!
 
Nothing against it, just hoping to keep it relatively simple. The tires are 2” natural lift already . . . Body lift mostly for show, I’m not much for show.

I generally agree. With big tires like this, it would provide key clearance to the body hardparts and fender. More suspension lift won't solve the problem at full compression. Limiting suspension travel would be like 1 step forward with larger tires yet 2 steps back in suspension travel.

A body lift would be a better trade to keeping better suspension geometry and keeping center of gravity low.
 

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