Woah -- wonder how this will look in the engine bay. I had enough of a hard time trying to cleanly install the ballasts 
I'll reply to your PM shortly, Luke!
I'll reply to your PM shortly, Luke!
LX470 HID RETROFIT PROJECTOR BRACKET (12 Viewers)
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I received my H1 projectors and am awaiting delivery of Lou's brackets.
Question for those of you experienced in the art of headlamp lens separation:
A few months ago I polished the lenses and installed Lamin-x protection film to prevent re-hazing. Can I bake the headlamps for the projector retrofit without destroying the lens film?
I've been searching lighting forums for answers but nothing for certain. Probably lower temp (200~220F) for longer time (15~20 mins) would be safer than the specs recommended by The Retrofit Source (270F for 7 mins). I'm also considering how to keep lenses cool, such as covering in aluminum foil, covering the lens in a damp cloth or ice pack, or using a heat absorbing "cooling" gel (used for soldering & welding).
Question for those of you experienced in the art of headlamp lens separation:
A few months ago I polished the lenses and installed Lamin-x protection film to prevent re-hazing. Can I bake the headlamps for the projector retrofit without destroying the lens film?
I've been searching lighting forums for answers but nothing for certain. Probably lower temp (200~220F) for longer time (15~20 mins) would be safer than the specs recommended by The Retrofit Source (270F for 7 mins). I'm also considering how to keep lenses cool, such as covering in aluminum foil, covering the lens in a damp cloth or ice pack, or using a heat absorbing "cooling" gel (used for soldering & welding).
Hi, are the H1's still available?
Any updates on the D2S brackets? Debating on waiting on those vs. just buying the H1's.
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #310
Sam, you'd need one pair of brackets for the OEM low beam location.... the high beam location doesn't require a bracket but it will require the back of the high beam shroud to be trimmed so you can tighten the nut on the projector. The fog light bracket has not been cut yet I simply mocked one up.
The easiest upgrade would be the Mini H1 using my bracket. If you feel you need more light you can do your fog lights when I have a bracket available or simply make your own.
If your still looking for more light you can then tackle the high beam location understanding it will require cutting the high beam shroud and if you crack or make a mistake you'll be sourcing another light housing. I crack one just removing it from the housing.
If you have experience retrofitting lights then go for the full setup or pay someone to do it otherwise the Mini H1 is a serious upgrade.
The only reason I decided to do the quad and fog lights is I had the extra projectors sitting around and I had four extra housing to play with
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Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #311
Here's the Mini H1 low beam only.. so you have to ask yourself do you really need more. I'm not trying to discourage anybody from adding more lights I'm just letting you know that I've screwed up enough shrouds that I'm down to one left otherwise I'd be buying a new light or sourcing a used one.
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Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #312
I couldn't wait for the laser cut foglight brackets so I cut two by hand in aluminum and closed up my foglights
You cou easily use these as head lights
I was also successful in cutting the OEM foglight projector in half to use as a pattern for the brackets
You cou easily use these as head lights
I was also successful in cutting the OEM foglight projector in half to use as a pattern for the brackets
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #313
Anyone thinking of doing a quad setup you'll have to carefully remove the highbeam shroud . It has a snap ball that requires getting a flat head screwdriver right on the attachment point to pop it off. Otherwise you'll crack the shroud. Ask me how I know!
Also by releasing the snap ball first you'll avoid it popping off, dropping to the shop floor and cracking.... Did that too
So after successfully removing the shroud you cut the end off ...I used a bench sander to sand it down to about an eighth of an inch. You also have to use a Dremel to sand down the attachment points that remain after you remove the highbeam reflector.
I plan on using one of those holes to run the highbeam trigger wires through.
I was also trying to figure out how to extend the hole for the cap. Found this PVC at Home Depot cut it down and epoxied it to the housing ....the plan was to use these huge 100mm rubber caps I bought from TRS but decided to cut off about 1/2 from one of the extra housing and epoxied it to the PVC which will allow me to use a OEM cap.
My only regret is I wish I'd thought of that before I epoxied the PVC piece on.
Looking to have these done in the next day or two
Also by releasing the snap ball first you'll avoid it popping off, dropping to the shop floor and cracking.... Did that too
So after successfully removing the shroud you cut the end off ...I used a bench sander to sand it down to about an eighth of an inch. You also have to use a Dremel to sand down the attachment points that remain after you remove the highbeam reflector.
I plan on using one of those holes to run the highbeam trigger wires through.
I was also trying to figure out how to extend the hole for the cap. Found this PVC at Home Depot cut it down and epoxied it to the housing ....the plan was to use these huge 100mm rubber caps I bought from TRS but decided to cut off about 1/2 from one of the extra housing and epoxied it to the PVC which will allow me to use a OEM cap.
My only regret is I wish I'd thought of that before I epoxied the PVC piece on.
Looking to have these done in the next day or two
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Installed Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 projectors using Lou's brackets into my '05 LX this afternoon. Very straightforward process and everything bolted up with no major fabrication required. Took me 1.5 hours for the first light, 1 hour for the second. I used Morimoto Retro Rubber butyl and TRS's MoriHolder bulb holders, both highly recommended and very inexpensive.
I used a heat gun for the first lens as I was worried I'd destroy my Lamin-X film in the oven. It worked. The second one I put in the oven at 200F for 20 mins and the film was fine, much easier to pry off lens.
I'm going to create a brief DIY for headlamp removal.
Lighting performance is literally a night & day difference from OEM halogens. I used a 9005 splitter from TRS to activate the high beam solenoid.
My advice is just do it, you'll regret not doing it sooner. Buy Lou's brackets and the above noted accessories from TRS to do it right and make it easy.
I used a heat gun for the first lens as I was worried I'd destroy my Lamin-X film in the oven. It worked. The second one I put in the oven at 200F for 20 mins and the film was fine, much easier to pry off lens.
I'm going to create a brief DIY for headlamp removal.
Lighting performance is literally a night & day difference from OEM halogens. I used a 9005 splitter from TRS to activate the high beam solenoid.
My advice is just do it, you'll regret not doing it sooner. Buy Lou's brackets and the above noted accessories from TRS to do it right and make it easy.
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #319
When I did my first retrofit using the OEM projector I was trying to figure out where to mount the ballast. @silverbullit told me to Velcro it to the bottom of the headlight. There a smooth flat area on the bottom that works great. For the quad setup I riveted a piece aluminum to bottom of the housing to mount the second ballast.
I almost decided not to hook up the high beams, as you'll find out there's not a big difference when you flip on the high beams but realized I need high beams to pass state inspection and decided to just hook up the Mini H1 high beams.
I taped and shrink wrapped the wires to increase the diameter and ran them through a waterproof gland that sealed and holds the wire tight.
I almost decided not to hook up the high beams, as you'll find out there's not a big difference when you flip on the high beams but realized I need high beams to pass state inspection and decided to just hook up the Mini H1 high beams.
I taped and shrink wrapped the wires to increase the diameter and ran them through a waterproof gland that sealed and holds the wire tight.
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