LX 450 and Other New Things (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

For a dual battery set up on the LX - - where do you guys route your cables between the two batteries? Around the back of the firewall?

Not saying I am working on this, but not saying I am NOT working on this . . . .
 
Heather said she would love to watch the kids if you want to help on some electrical stuff and drink beers. She hasn't seen her toddler nephews in months and needs a "baby fix" :)
Just say when. Ezra just started smiling so its a prime “baby fix” time.

On the dual batteries, I went on the bottom side with f the core support. I think there was already a harness I attached the battery cable to.
 
On my 450, I ran mine under the top core support, and zip tied it to existing harness under there.

On the white 80, I may go down lower, and incorporate a leg to the winch, but not sure yet.
 
Thanks @NC LX and @stevezero - - If you gotta do a winch line down there, I guess it makes sense.

BTW - I tried to get the dual battery system past Heather and she poo-poo'd it - wth - you would think we are trying to turn up a business or something :(

My plan was to use some more black cutting board and make basically something like this. I would surface mount the Blue Sea switches vs my top mount on the Tundra so I could hide the wiring underneath. The ACR would have to have holes coming up or something.

Gauge_Disconnect_Mount1__54443.1465265607.1280.1280.png



9001e_mountoptions.jpg



20171121_100338.jpg
 
Last edited:
I've read a lot of pages from the FAQ, but need some help here - here is what I am thinking:

Engine Oil: 5Qts High Mileage Mobile 1 10w30 + 3 Qts regular 10w30. Jeff gave me 3 filters from Onur
Diffs: Mobile 1 75W-90
Transfer Case: Mobile 1 75W-90

Lotta people saying going 40 weight on the engine oil, but 30 weight is easy to buy at Costco etc.
 
I had a p/u with the 22r, I used to run bar and chain in that. Worked good for quite a while
 
There are so many people using so many oils, seemingly all of them with great success, that I don't care anymore. If it's on sale and starts with 5 or 10 and ends with 30 or 40 then it's getting used.

@AJR I bet that thing was sharp! :rimshot:
 
I've read a lot of pages from the FAQ, but need some help here - here is what I am thinking:

Engine Oil: 5Qts High Mileage Mobile 1 10w30 + 3 Qts regular 10w30. Jeff gave me 3 filters from Onur
Diffs: Mobile 1 75W-90
Transfer Case: Mobile 1
Not sure about that Oil from Alabama.
 
All kidding aside, I don’t use Dino oil. Synthetic only
 
If you don't use Amsoil or Royal Purple with large WIX filters then your engine will lock up! Or is that the other way around. Better ask @fj40z :lol:

30 weight, 40 weight, whatever. If you want the real answer, read the owners manual. The weight of oil depends on the climate the truck is in, which also changes with the seasons. There's a chart in the owner's manual stating what weight oils to use depending on ambient temp. 40 weight in the summer, 30 weight in the NE winters is what I used to do with my 2F.
 
30 weight, 40 weight, whatever. If you want the real answer, read the owners manual. The weight of oil depends on the climate the truck is in, which also changes with the seasons. There's a chart in the owner's manual stating what weight oils to use depending on ambient temp. 40 weight in the summer, 30 weight in the NE winters is what I used to do with my 2F.
^2nd this. If you look in the owners manual of the same vehicle, same engine, different parts of the world, the oil weight will be different.

I buy 15w40 5gallons at a time and my 80 seems to be happy with it. I only run Toyota filters though.
 
Id put regular dino gear oil in the diffs, and syn in the trans case. Diffs get expensive to refill each time you may encounter some deep water.

Also, get in the habit of doing a transmission drain and refill with each oil change. takes roughly 3.5-5 qts thru the drain plug. Very inexpensive insurance on keeping the transmission fluid fresh
 
Some 15-40w flavor with zinc.

It is not cold enough in eastern NC to worry about the first "W" number.

30 weight was for max fuel economy. I would rather lean toward better protection since most current oil has little to no zinc as it can clog modern catalytic converters.

Also with age and wear the clearance in the engine is a little loose, so 40 weight will fill the void a little better in my mind anyways.
 
Thanks for all the input guys.

Eric's post triggered my memory of all the 3FE research on oils and flat tappet motors and needing higher Zinc, ZDDP, etc. I believe I used Mobil Delvac for my 62 - I know it was an oil marketed to big trucks primarily for diesels.
 
Last edited:
I had a p/u with the 22r, I used to run bar and chain in that. Worked good for quite a while

I know several full time arboritst types who run old truck engine oil in their saws for the chain/bar . . .you guys could have swapped around all over the place.
 
Id put regular dino gear oil in the diffs, and syn in the trans case. Diffs get expensive to refill each time you may encounter some deep water.

Also, get in the habit of doing a transmission drain and refill with each oil change. takes roughly 3.5-5 qts thru the drain plug. Very inexpensive insurance on keeping the transmission fluid fresh

Big help here, Steve - thank-you.
 
If you don't use Amsoil or Royal Purple with large WIX filters then your engine will lock up! Or is that the other way around. Better ask @fj40z :lol:

30 weight, 40 weight, whatever. If you want the real answer, read the owners manual. The weight of oil depends on the climate the truck is in, which also changes with the seasons. There's a chart in the owner's manual stating what weight oils to use depending on ambient temp. 40 weight in the summer, 30 weight in the NE winters is what I used to do with my 2F.

Thanks for weighing in and telling me to read my manual . . . AND making fun of my research and FJ40z's engine issues . . . all in the same post LOL

:flamingo:

Not sure what a Flamingo has to do with anything, but . . had to put something up "nicer" than the other bird LOL


Ohh . .I better add - I know you, @JohnVee and @NC LX are all right, but I still can't stop trying to find the perfect oil . . . *sigh* I do know this - - it probably isn't Mobil 1 5w30 now - too expensive and not enough key vitamins and minerals.
 
Last edited:
Well if you are that motivated it was discussed once in 80s tech lol

What is the best motor oil?

Recommendations On Engine Oil Weight 80 Series

What engine oil are you running?

Synthetic Oil

What is the best motor oil?



and those arent even the good ones :D

Most of those are probably linked in the oil discussion in FAQ here

Oil Recommendations and Discussion Thread for FAQ

Or you could just pick one..... if you keep this one long enough youll have a second chance ;)

13 years and no problems doing rotella T6 syn 5w-40 on 7500m intervals. Cary mentions in one of those threads it is relabled delvac.
 
Thanks - I read through many of those, but not all. More reading for this AM!

To make matters worse, I am just "lazy" enough to not want to travel much to get oil, nor do anything out of my ordinary paces each week . . .

So basically would take the top 5 choices, then check Costco, Adv Auto Parts, etc around town and just go with it because I'm not travelling to some Royal Purple store in NE Raleigh to buy oil.

EDIT: So I'll look for the Rotella T Synthetic - - price etc. It will be first choice :) vs the Mobil 1 High Mileage and others.

Thanks again everyone!
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom