Build Lumpy the LandCruiser

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When cleaning side of the block to reinstall the inspection cover, how do you guys keep the "gunk and crud" from the old gasket and all the other crap on the block from getting all over the top of the lifter valves? Just taking the cover off and I got some stuff in there. I imagine they are like mini cylinders and you definitely don't want any crud in the side walls of them. Any tips from the pros?

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Sorry to hear about your dad.

As for the gunk, use lots of brake cleaner, wash it out or down into the pan. Change the oil afterwards. Definitely don't want any of that in the lifter bores.
 
Thanks for the sentiment. It's been tough.

Good tip on the brake cleaner. On the list is a new oil pan gasket, so I'll clean everything out of it when I do that.

Last night I picked up a cleaning pad for my angle grinder. It made quick work of a few things! I don't have a pic of the valve cover before, but after 15-20min on it, it's very shiny metal! It's going to get painted with VHT SP205 to try to match the factory color, along with a clear coat. The hard water lines are getting painted black.
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Before:
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After:
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That angle grinder disc pad is my new best friend for cleaning!
 
Got some work in over the weekend.

I tackled the passenger side of the block. Removed everything that had been leaking (dizzy, oil cooler, oil filter bracket, etc... what a mess! But I'm getting things cleaned up!

Before:
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After:
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I still have a lot of scrubbing to do, but it's turning out alright. I need to order up all the gaskets and metal rings to get everything bolted back on. I figure I'll clean the oil pan when I remove it to change the gasket.

I also scrubbed the oil cooler and filter bracket. got the oil cooler painted up nice. Not sure if I want to paint the bracket or leave it looking like the cast.

Before:
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After:
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I also cleaned up the inspection plate. Getting the gasket off the back was a real pain, but it cleaned up nice. I left the back side unpainted (no pic), but painted up the front side, along with the valve cover. They turned out great! 3 coats of high temp engine enamel with ceramic, followed by 3 coats of high temp clear.

From this grimy mess:
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wiped down with some de-greaser and rags"
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buffed cleaned with angle grinder scrubber
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Final product!
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Does anyone know what this is on the oil pressure sending unit? I have read it's a ground, but I didn't have anything connected to it. Is it a ground I should connect, or does it ground through the block when it's bolted into the oil filter bracket?

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Hey Borrego, everything looks great! As far as I know, the tab on the oil pressure sender is for different makes and models, and serves as a ground. If I remember correctly, you want to make sure it's hooked up to the right tab (center nipple on ours), or it'll burn out the gauge (I could be wrong, anyone is free to correct me).
 
@Perovich Thanks! I looked in the manual and it confirmed what you said. It shows a single yellow/black wire going to the sending unit and grounding at the unit. mine worked before I took it apart, and it was originally connected to the center pin.

and thanks again for the cylinder head!

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Wow!! Things are looking really nice!!
 
It’s amazing how you can take parts that look so bad and almost make them look new again. When I did my swap I found my OCD was on steroids :rofl:
Nice new avatar I see too😁
 
Amazing work! Gives me hope for whenever I actually get around to cleaning up my engine bay. In the Spokane area here, haven't been on 'Mud since around 2012 but have been seeing more and more 60s in the area in the last year or so, hopefully we can get some meetings together!
 
@Hojack @Motorwerx Thanks! It's a slow process, but it's definitely a fun one.

It would be great to get a group together in the Spokane area. Wish there was an Inland Empire TLC Chapter.
 
Just a heads up. Check that the rocker assembly/valve cover studs are seated. On my recent head replacement I found it necessary to snug down the rocker assembly studs into the head. They had come with the new to me cylinder head and were not all the way seated. I did this by tightening two nuts together and then running them down all the way. I found out the hard way after my new valve cover gasket was leaking oil and snugging the aluminum nuts on top of the valve cover didn't work. Needless to say I went back and did the valve adjustment over again too.
 
@g-man Thanks for the heads up, I checked them and they were all seated.

I did some work over the weekend, cleaning the passenger side frame rail, charcoal canister area, misc. brackets and fender. Still a lot to do, but what I did do, turned out great, in my opinion. I need to clean all the crap and gunk that's fallen on the diff from all my scrubbing... I'm tired of seeing it look so nasty in my pictures. I'm surprised how clean the original inner fender paint still is!

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Got to work on things a little over the holidays. More cleaning, refurbishing and finally putting a few things back together.

Installed the push rod side cover with an OEM cork gasket, installed the charcoal canister and hoses, installed the oil cooler bracket and oil cooler with new OEM gaskets and rings, cleaned up the distributor, put on a new OEM cap and rotor (the new toyota rotors are gray instead of the burnt orange color), and a new o-ring gasket, and did some general cleaning all around. Pulled the coil and igniter to clean up and a few other brackets. Will have them back on soon.
Pics:
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Does anyone know what the two hoses are coming out of the distributor plug? They look like they were vacuum hoses that were cut. Are they vents of some sort?
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