Builds Lumpy the LandCruiser

Joined
Apr 6, 2007
Messages
1,634
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Under the hood
 
 
Check your local CL, seems like mine always has 1-2 F/2F engines being sold or parted. Might be able to find a local head cheap.
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2007
Messages
1,634
Location
Under the hood
 
 
Check your local CL, seems like mine always has 1-2 F/2F engines being sold or parted. Might be able to find a local head cheap.
 

Willard

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 5, 2007
Messages
1,999
Location
Northern Virginia
 
 
Nice build up so far. Nice to see you are base lining it and fixing all the little things.
Check with @HemiAlex he has over 308K on his engine and I think he did the head at some point. If the block is good why not.
 
Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
299
Location
Coeur d' Alene, ID
 
Check your local CL, seems like mine always has 1-2 F/2F engines being sold or parted. Might be able to find a local head cheap.
Believe me, I'm looking at all sources and options. There aren't many Cruisers posted on Craigslist in the Spokane/Coeur D Alene area.

I picked up the cracked head this morning... Pretty good sized crack leading to the freeze plug, which is why my machinist told me it wasn't fixable. I've heard of some specialty machine shops able to weld these. They heat the block up to extreme heat, which melts the freeze plugs out, stitch weld the crack, and fill the freeze plugs with a threaded plug. Not sure about this though. Anyone have experience with this? More trouble than it's worth? Just find a used one?

1945119
 

CuCruiser

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 12, 2016
Messages
307
Location
Jocko Valley, MT
Ouch that looks like a big crack. If you're not in a big hurry we could maybe work out some kind of head relay to get that head from Helena to CDA. Also I would let Paul take the head to his machine shop if possible. They do a great job on these, having done so many for him.
 
Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
299
Location
Coeur d' Alene, ID
 
Current plan is to get one from TorFab, he has a number of them for $300 that all test good. Still need rebuilds though. And I may have just found a local one 10min North of me in Hayden, Idaho for the same price.

Question. When putting on a new head do I use the rocker assembly and push rods from the new head or old head? Are there any issues with specs or tolerances between the two? If not, why did I have to keep my push rods in order when I pulled them out?
 

CuCruiser

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 12, 2016
Messages
307
Location
Jocko Valley, MT
Generally you won't get the rocker assy with head. So you will use yours. Important to keep them all in order because they have worn together now. Using new or different parts will initiate wear again. For instance when I got the new valves in the head, there was wear apparent there for a while, I assume while the rockers and valves broke each other in.

So if there are any broken parts, you can replace, but best is to have those parts that are comfortable with each other.
 

FJBen

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 1, 2004
Messages
4,404
Location
West
 
 
 
hey man, looks like fun...I'm just over the hill near Missoula. Interior looks amazing!

That thing on the block is a block heater...just needs a new cord, it'll pull out of the socket just like a power plug. Oil sender is on the other side, down by the filter on the oil cooler.
Have no idea about the coolant not draining. My water jacket was full of silicone blobs floating free. Really irritating, as they could have caused all the trouble I had with my head, blocking passages and whatnot. Hopefully that's not your problem.

You could maybe pull that block heater and have a look, I believe if you loosen the screw at the center it should come out easily. It's like a rubber expansion plug.
Thats what happens when people use the wrong sealant in spots they shouldn't. The machine shop said you wouldn't believe the amount of engines they tear down and find the oil strainer filled with silicon sealant. There is a reason Toyota uses FIPG
 

CuCruiser

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 12, 2016
Messages
307
Location
Jocko Valley, MT
It sure was a lesson for me. PO was sure it was the solution for every problem, I found it everywhere. :mad: I probably don't want to know what the oil pan looks like! o_O
 
Joined
May 31, 2018
Messages
176
Location
Okaloosa County, Florida
Good luck with the locally sourced head and rebuild. I just had my FJ62 3FE replaced, and fortunately the replacement was found less than a quarter mile away from the shop where I had mine done. (Yeah, I'm weak, I know.)

If you keep this rig, and I hope you do, I'll suggest that you keep the block heater. I lived in North Dakota for five winters and it was an essential piece of kit in the winter. And while the head is out, tap and plug the oil galley plug if it hasn't already been done.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
299
Location
Coeur d' Alene, ID
 
I definitely plan on keeping the rig, and I will most likely keep the block heater. I'll have to test it first to make sure it works. It's not a daily driver, so on those frigid mornings in North Idaho, I probably won't be starting it up. And the oil galley will definitely be plugged properly.

Here's one of my crazy ideas. While the head is out, and it'll be a few weeks before I put it back in, I wanted to take advantage of having the room in there to take things out and clean/restore them. It's so much easier to access the firewall, heat shield, hard lines, etc.. I didn't want to risk anything damaging the block deck, or getting in the cylinders, so when I removed the head, after I cleaned up the carbon from the cylinder heads (green scotchbrite WD40) I coated everything with some 5w30 oil I had laying around to prevent any rust while the head is off, then put a couple layers of saran wrap over it, and made a plywood deck to sit on top, bolted in with the head bolts and PVC as spacers. Works well to keep things out, plus it makes a good workbench in the engine bay!

1949591


Heat shield off. Hard lines look good, just need some cleaning.
1949592
 
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
826
Location
Oakland CA
 
 
Great thread so far.

I just did all of this same work. I had to keep all the spaghetti emmisions though and figure out why I couldn’t pass smog. My truck runs great now.
I didn’t keep my push rods in order. What ever... Maybe it’ll blow up now. I also didn’t bother putting the rear hook back in cause that bolt is such a PItA to get in/out. I didn’t bother with spacers either. Just put it in and tightened it down. I don’t think I could fit my tourque wrench into that space so I probably just got it good and tight.

Keep it up. Lookin good man.
 
Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
299
Location
Coeur d' Alene, ID
 
Sorry for the lack of udpates... Life gets in the way. Just gathering new parts right now, then going on a two week vacation. Disneyland with the fam, then Cruise Moab! After that dust settles, I'll get going on this again.
 
Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
299
Location
Coeur d' Alene, ID
 
This summer was the worst summer imaginable. After a 13 year battle with colon cancer, we lost my Dad. It's been really tough on the entire family. He was the patriarch and my best friend. The guy I look up to the most. When I would do anything related to working on my rigs, he's the one I would call up to ask questions to, or share in my accomplishments. In work, fun, wrenching, sports, anything. Life is never going to be the same. I really haven't touched my 60 until last weekend. I've had no motivation before then.

So not to make this a sad thread, I'll get back to talking about my cruiser.

When I left off, I was in search of a new head, because mine was cracked pretty bad (unrepairable). I had a line on one from Torfab that I was getting ready to go over and buy, but then I was contacted by @Perovich, who is local to me, who said he had a good one. I asked him how much he wanted, and the stand up guy he is, he said he had no use for it, and gave it to me! I'm still in shock! I took it down to Spokane Cylinder Head service and had them check it all out and rebuild it. They said it was in excellent condition.

Here it is back from the shop.
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Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
299
Location
Coeur d' Alene, ID
 
I cleaned the deck up and am cleaning things as I go. (notice the hard lines on the firewall - a few posts ago, you can see how dirty it all was back there. Plan is to make the whole engine bay that clean). I've bought all new hoses, but I put the old ones back on for now, just to know where everything goes. Once I'm done with the engine, I'll start cleaning changing hoses, etc... I also took my radiator in to have it checked and flushed, and they said it was shot. So I ordered a new CSF 2708, waiting to go in.

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Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
299
Location
Coeur d' Alene, ID
 
Before I installed the new head, when I cleaned the surface of the block, I also cleaned the head bolt threads. I have all new head bolts, so I took one of the old head bolts, put it in the vice and got out the angle grinder to make a few marks in the bolt to catch the crap stuck in the threads. Worked like a charm. I couldn't believe all the stuff that came out of it.

New Head Bolts:
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New Toyota Headgasket:
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Homemade Head Bolt thread chaser:
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Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
299
Location
Coeur d' Alene, ID
 
I installed the head, they are so heavy! Luckily I'm 6-1 270 and am able to manhandle it... HAHA. I carefully lowered it onto the gasket and torqued it all down in the pattern from the FSM. I wasn't about to mess with getting my torque wrench in the back to install the hook, so I got some spacers.

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I installed the push rods in the order I took them out. But before I torque down the rocker assembly, I wanted to check the lifter valves. So, I put the valve cover on the head to keep everything clean, then started removing everything off the passenger side of the block to get at the inspection plate. I got it off and checked the lifter valves. I have read that a good bit of varnish can build up on the bottom of the lifters and make them very difficult to get out. I was expecting to have to struggle to get them out, but they came out with ease and looked pretty good for the amount of miles the bottom end has on it.

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