- Thread starter
- #141
After the recurve is done. Do I just set my timing at like 10-12 advanced then do a lean drop?
Loss of power, torque, dead spot, hesitation whatever you want to call it!
- Thread starter LandoNick
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Set the timing so it doesn’t ping ever.
To get there,
Advance it 2° at a time and take a torture test drive between each new setting and try to make it ping.
Eventually it’ll ping if you advance it far enough. When you can just barely perceive it pinging on a torture test drive, retard the timing 2° and you should be good.
To get there,
Advance it 2° at a time and take a torture test drive between each new setting and try to make it ping.
Eventually it’ll ping if you advance it far enough. When you can just barely perceive it pinging on a torture test drive, retard the timing 2° and you should be good.
Engine theory says that the more timing you add, the leaner the truck will run, yes. Running too lean causes pinging. If you tune the distributor as mentioned above and then set your carb, you should be well within the parameters to keep your truck happy. If you choose to err on the side of caution, dial back the timing a little. As for me, with my home brew desmog, I run with the initial timing set so that the BB is just below the sight window. I have never had pinging. Truck runs and idles well and I have encountered no problems with it that way over the last several years of driving.
I don't think you need any thread sealer. I didn't use any. It wouldn't hurt as long as you didn't goop it up and have some fall into the exhaust ports. You could cap the air rail but you still run the risk of a leak. If you decide to remove the air rail and the air injectors that are between the air rail and the head, make sure to spray all the threaded connections down with pb blaster or other penetrating oil for a few days before attempting to break them free. The air rail can wring or twist where it connects to the injector and ruin it. And the injectors can snap off in the cylinder head. SPRAY it all down good...soak it a few days. And be careful breaking it loose. Then you can keep it or resell it.
- Thread starter
- #146
I was hopefully going to take off the rail then the injectors. Is there any issue removing the back motor hook to pull the motor I assume? Seems like it’s in the way of that back injector. Also. I can just cap there the air rail goes into the gold valve?
by "gold valve" you mean the air valve at the end of the rail? The short answer is yes. There's more than one way to skin a cat. But you open yourself up to leaks. I developed a pea sized rust hole in one of the small down pipes off the rail. It was toward the back, one of the one's between the carb and the valve cover. I inadvertently found it when I was working on my carb and felt air pressure from the leak. You may not have this leak....mine was still hooked to the smog pump. But I guess it could leak back out from the exhaust port in the head.
the Hook comes off, but you'll want to torque the head bolt back down. The torque spec is 84-97 ft/lbs.
the Hook comes off, but you'll want to torque the head bolt back down. The torque spec is 84-97 ft/lbs.
The hose from the air pump to the”gold” valve has already been removed, right? With the engine running, if there isn’t any exhaust leaking you’re fine. That’s a one way check valve meant to keep exhaust from getting to the air pump. You could just leave it in place.
- Thread starter
- #149
Correct that hose that went from the air pump the gold valve is gone and capped.
- Thread starter
- #151
is that motor hooks attached to a head Bolt? I didn't looks that close I guess.
Sure is. Actually 2 head bolts. The base of the hook has 2 legs. The bolts are the same length as the other head bolts so not going to bottom out and no need for extra washers. As I recall it's a little tough to get on the head of that rear bolt due to the shape of the hook, but you'll figure it out.
- Thread starter
- #153
It looks like it would be easier to get to the back air rail injector with that hook out of the way.
I don't recall having to move the rear hook to remove the air rail. I did remember having to move it to pull the head. And I left it off, because it was a pain to get on the rear head bolt.
- Thread starter
- #155
goths air rail all off and capped! Where the hose goes into the Gold valve was rusted and just broken off.
- Thread starter
- #156
*got
- Thread starter
- #157
I purchased the EGR block off plate from Man A Fre. The block off plate at the manifold has a brass fitting for a vacuum hose that is coming from the PCV valve. The original EGR equipment that is there has a long metal tube that the hose connects to. When the block plate is installed I believe the original hose will be to short. Does anyone know what size that hose is?
- Thread starter
- #159
Since I believe my EGR system is not functioning. I am getting the block off plates this week hopefully. Can I now remove the EGR system? Then just cap any vacuum lines that are going to the valve and the modulator? Soak all the hardwear I assume. Pb blaster. A good spray to use
Pb blaster works well. You can remove the system with the correct vacuum lines plugged and the block off plates in place. Re-attach the pcv hose to the new block off plate at the intake below the carb. You'll still need to recurve the dizzy or at least try the lighter springs then re-set your timing. Be carefull with the studs/nuts at the egr pipe to manifold. You don't want to strip them or worse wring one of the studs. I'd spray these down for a couple of days first. There are 2 bolts that hold the egr cooler to the block. they should break free easily but make sure the heads are not so rusted as to round them before the bolts come loose. For this I recommend the correct size 6 point socket and not a 12 point. They are 14mm.
The whole EGR system will come out in one piece w/out having to break the larger nuts loose but it can be a bear to wrestle with. It involves flexing the flexible piping between the EGR valve and the cooler. For me, I pulled it down and out the bottom. But I didn't have a smog pump in the way. If you have large mm wrenches like 27mm etc then by all means try and disconnect one of the pipes going to the EGR. It will be much easier to pull the system out in 2 pieces.
The whole EGR system will come out in one piece w/out having to break the larger nuts loose but it can be a bear to wrestle with. It involves flexing the flexible piping between the EGR valve and the cooler. For me, I pulled it down and out the bottom. But I didn't have a smog pump in the way. If you have large mm wrenches like 27mm etc then by all means try and disconnect one of the pipes going to the EGR. It will be much easier to pull the system out in 2 pieces.