Loss of power, torque, dead spot, hesitation whatever you want to call it!

[OSS]

On every 2F, if the EGR valve is disabled and everything else left the same, the engine will ping.
EGR gas dilutes the percentage of oxygen getting sucked into the combustion chamber so the explosion happens slower. When the EGR is disabled, the explosion/fuel burn happens faster which creates pinging because the spark is timed to use the slower burning EGR gas.

 

[LandoNick]

On every 2F, if the EGR valve is disabled and everything else left the same, the engine will ping.
EGR gas dilutes the percentage of oxygen getting sucked into the combustion chamber so the explosion happens slower. When the EGR is disabled, the explosion/fuel burn happens faster which creates pinging because the spark is timed to use the slower burning EGR gas.

Do you have any ideas on why I would need to run at 1 degree advanced for my engine not to ping? Is it age? Distributor stop pin?

 

[OSS]

You’ve got to rule out the EGR system by testing it according to the info in the emissions manual.

 

[LandoNick]

Does anyone have a step by step (with pictures) on the stop pin mod? I’m super intimidated by it. Any help would be appreciated. In the Rushing turtle thread there is talk of a measure the trigger to set the gap per fsm. I’m not sure what the trigger is? Just some clarification all around.

 

[LandoNick]

Ok put vacuum to the top port on the EGR. Which I assume will kill the engine if it was functioning. It did nothing. So I assume its not functioning? Sound right to anyone?

 

[fjc-man]

I only meant to post the quote from FJ40Jim.

An unmodified dissy with a worn limit pin has too much advance, too soon. Do not set the base timing higher than 7*BTDC.

Thanks, don’t think anyone’s ever referred to my truck as a ‘sweet ride’!
That’s the ‘takin forever fender patch’ project!
Tying to cover up the PO hack of the rear.... it had flares but I didn’t like ‘em - I cut and bent flat metal from HD
*I’ll get around to making it prettier one of these days.... maybe a pandemic exile chore!

My ambulance door lock striker plate has a shim between the plate and the driver's side door frame. I don't think that is original equipment, but it does help with snugging things up as the weatherstripping ages.

Well, got the stem seals from McGeorge Toyota today, and installed them. Went on super easy and without issue.

In addition to the Toyota OEM seals having thicker rubber, the metal part has better hardness. When you drive them home, they don't distort like the Mahle do

View attachment 2880530

View attachment 2880531



View attachment 2880532note the use of a wobble extension to install that last seal on #6

View attachment 2880533

 

[OSS]

Ok put vacuum to the top port on the EGR. Which I assume will kill the engine if it was functioning. It did nothing. So I assume its not functioning? Sound right to anyone?

Correct. Normally if the engine is idling and vacuum is applied to the EGR valve, the engine will stall.

The fact that nothing happens when you did that means the EGR valve is so gunked up that the diaphragm can’t open the valve. Either that or the diaphragm has a leak and won’t hold vacuum.

It’s not terribly difficult to clean an EGR valve. It has to be removed from the engine though then cleaned out with small metal pipe brushes and Mr Muscle oven cleaner. It’s a bit of toxic work (stay away from the MM vapors) but it’s not too bad.

 

[LandoNick]

Correct. Normally if the engine is idling and vacuum is applied to the EGR valve, the engine will stall.

The fact that nothing happens when you did that means the EGR valve is so gunked up that the diaphragm can’t open the valve. Either that or the diaphragm has a leak and won’t hold vacuum.

It’s not terribly difficult to clean an EGR valve. It has to be removed from the engine though then cleaned out with small metal pipe brushes and Mr Muscle oven cleaner. It’s a bit of toxic work (stay away from the MM vapors) but it’s not too bad.

So if my EGR is not functioning now. Would my driving conditions be the same if I remove the EGR and use the block off plates?

 

[LandoNick]

I only meant to post the quote from FJ40Jim.

I’m running 5 degrees BTDC. and the hoses on the dizzy swapped. No ping

 

[OSS]

Just leave the egr valve there. It’s not affecting anything unless you can’t stand the sight of it.

 

[LandoNick]

Can someone give me a reference on the Air gap for the Distributor? What is that referring to, also what is the spec ? I do not see it in the 2f Manual. Rubbing block gap is referenced and the damping spring gap.

 

[OSS]

Air gap info is in the 2F Engine Manual.

Tune Up section.

The orientation of the distributor is signaled by magnets spinning past a sensor, There is no physical contact using this method. That’s why these types of distributors don’t wear out.
The air gap spec ensures that the magnet isn’t too close to rub or too far away to not generate a signal for the pickup.

 

[LandoNick]

Air gap info is in the 2F Engine Manual. View attachment 3018319Tune Up section.

The orientation of the distributor is signaled by magnets spinning past a sensor, There is no physical contact using this method. That’s why these types of distributors don’t wear out.
The air gap spec ensures that the magnet isn’t too close to rub or too far away to not generate a signal for the pickup.

If it it off how is it adjusted?

 

[LandoNick]

If it it off how is it adjusted?

*is

 

[micruz60]

Look at the third picture in post #15, first page. Two phillips head screws below the red and white wires, loosen them and use regular screw driver blade in notch to move the signal generator closer or further from fins. I used a paper match split in half to approximate the .4 mm spec. Running higher octane fuel is also a way to reduce the pinging.

 

[LandoNick]

Look at the third picture in post #15, first page. Two phillips head screws below the red and white wires, loosen them and use regular screw driver blade in notch to move the signal generator closer or further from fins. I used a paper match split in half to approximate the .4 mm spec. Running higher octane fuel is also a way to reduce the pinging.

Can you use a feeler gauge on that is is the metal not good? While it’s all open. Is there anything to recondition in there? How can I be reassured that I get the distributor back in exactly where it needs to go back?

 

[micruz60]

You do not need to pull the distributor to set the air gap. A metal feeler gauge should work, might be sticky to the magnet, might be better to use a plastic feeler gauge. I believe you can keep driving without doing the stop pin bushing replacement until you can pull the distributor, the Factory Service Manual details the procedure to reinstall it.
You have really come a good ways with getting comfortable doing the lean drop, setting timing, adjusting the valves so I say drive it, add a higher octane fuel to see what improves (less ping). One thing that can be making this frustrating is that the smog pump is not there to push the air thru the egr/air rail system, so disconnecting the air rail /plugging the holes into the manifold and delete the j-pipe / cap the hole under the manifold would be a good next step.

 

[LandoNick]

You do not need to pull the distributor to set the air gap. A metal feeler gauge should work, might be sticky to the magnet, might be better to use a plastic feeler gauge. I believe you can keep driving without doing the stop pin bushing replacement until you can pull the distributor, the Factory Service Manual details the procedure to reinstall it.
You have really come a good ways with getting comfortable doing the lean drop, setting timing, adjusting the valves so I say drive it, add a higher octane fuel to see what improves (less ping). One thing that can be making this frustrating is that the smog pump is not there to push the air thru the egr/air rail system, so disconnecting the air rail /plugging the holes into the manifold and delete the j-pipe / cap the hole under the manifold would be a good next step.

I wanted to see if the stop pin bushing was broke off which I assume is. I have the new bushing. I’m just very hesitant to pull the distributor. It’s seems that some people have issues with getting it all back in place.

 

[fjc-man]

Nick, where do you live? Maybe someone following this thread lives close enough to you to offer help. What I’m getting at is for you to do the stop pin “renewal” it definitely would be easier to do with the distributor removed. I think the biggest obstacle to attempting to install a replacement bushing would be getting the vacuum advance unit off the body of the distributor to facilitate removing the plate the pickup is attached to. All of this would be way easier with the distributor clamped in a vice. You could use help with removal and reinstalling the distributor.

 

[g-man]

dizzy work outline:

1. remove the spark plugs wires and vent hoses from the cap

2. remove the cap (3 screws on the edges will get it off)

3. orient the rotor so it's pointing at a specific spark plug or 10mm bolt on the side cover plate and take a pic of this. do this by bumping the ignition around til it's in the spot you need. take a picture, it's got to get back to this same spot.

4. disconnect the green coil signal plug at the side of the dizzy. Remove it from it's keeper first.

5. loosen and remove the keeper bolt where the bottom of the dizzy goes into the motor.

6. pull up on the dizzy. It will turn slightly as it comes out..this due to the gears on the dizzy shaft engaged with the gears on the cam shaft. Its ok just realize which way its turning. When you get it out make a mental note of which way the rotor turned and where it is pointing. This is the starting point when you put back in.

7. Clean the dizzy gear and shaft f it has carbon or sludge.

8. Carefully put the dizzy in a vice. I assume the body is cast aluminum. Don't crack it.

9. Remove the C clip on the advancer arm. A metal pick or very small screwdriver should work.

10. loosen and remove the retainer brace and screw holding the advancer port on the outside of the dizzy housing. (for me this was stuck and screwdriver didn't work. I gently tapped a socket over the head of the screw and broke it loose with a 1/4 drive ratchet)

11. Pull the advancer out. It needs to be out of the way to get to the stop pin. You may need to wiggle and work this out. Its just a rubber boot wedged into the dizzy housing.

12. Remove the rotor and black plastic cover from the signal generator. The plastic cover pries off with small screwdriver or you can remove one of the 2 small screws that also hold the signal generator in place.

13. Remove the 2 small screws and remove the signal generator. The magnet will come loose from the metal L shape ...no problem, screws back together.

14. Pull the small retaining screws and clips and pull the breaker plate out. Take it apart (remove 4 clips on the sides with exacto knife or small screwdriver) and clean, regrease....realize small bearings so be ready to catch them ...think white cloth under your breaker plate on a work bench.

15. at this point you should see the stop pin and the weights and springs. If your stop pin bushing is destroyed you will see bits of it in the bottom of the dizzy that you can remove.

reassembly is reverse order. For USA models don't disassemble the shaft. I used a metal feeler gauge to set the air gap. It does stick to the magnet a little but really not a problem.