Loss of power, torque, dead spot, hesitation whatever you want to call it! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LandoNick
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- Thread starter
- #162
Some questions I will have after doing the Dizzy.
After the springs and stop pin is replaced. Will I hook up the vacuum hoses to the dizzy on the stock locations? I have them switched right now.
again my EGR is not operating.
Also when I get down to the springs of the Dizzy. am I just Matching up the springs and replacement springs from the original Rushing Turtle post?
3rd the base plate? of the dizzy is that were the bearings are? does that plate open and do I need to open it?
After the springs and stop pin is replaced. Will I hook up the vacuum hoses to the dizzy on the stock locations? I have them switched right now.
again my EGR is not operating.
Also when I get down to the springs of the Dizzy. am I just Matching up the springs and replacement springs from the original Rushing Turtle post?
3rd the base plate? of the dizzy is that were the bearings are? does that plate open and do I need to open it?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
There are 46 small ball bearings in the breaker plate. See my Post #128 on Page 7 of this thread.
- Thread starter
- #164
What kind of grease would you recommend? Wheel bearing grease?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I use older type distributor cam lubricant in my refurbished distributors, but it's hard to find anymore. The newer grease sold by AutoZone still carries the same CL-200 part number used by Wells, but it's a different formulation. NAPA sells a similar grease.
You want a grease that doesn't run when it gets hot, but that isn't too stiff either. A good high-temperature wheel bearing grease might work.
- Thread starter
- #167
Got the dizzy all put back together. Springs swapped and the stop pin bushing replaced ( mine was in pieces).
Unfortunately while taking off the coil wire from the cap it broke.
So apparently they only sell the kits of wires not just one.
Discontinued from Toyota.
Unfortunately while taking off the coil wire from the cap it broke.
So apparently they only sell the kits of wires not just one.
Discontinued from Toyota.
- Thread starter
- #168
Ok got everything back together with the new Coil wire. Started up great. started the timing at 10 degrees. There was some hesitation, no back fire no ping. Went to 12 hesitation getting better. Went to 14 good response no ping. This was with the Dizzy advanced vacuum hoses in the original spots. Before the Dizzy work I had the vacuum hoses swapped. So at 14 then I swapped the hoses and it felt better I think and smother. I don't know if that's real. can some one explain the hose switching? why, what does it do, Does it have to do with the EGR, HAC,???
g-man
SILVER Star
the outer vacuum line (secondary) to the dizzy vacuum advancer is gets its vacuum source from the gas filter on the intake but it feeds through the HAC or at least partly. It's a smaller diaphram so it's not going to move the advancer arm as far. The inner line (primary) on the dizzy advancer vacuum is coming from the advancer port on the passenger side of the carb and pulls vacuum when the throttle plate opens and I guess relative to how much the plate opens. But it goes through the #1 bvsv and a vtv...vacuum transmitting valve. So the vacuum is delayed until op temps go up. And I assume the VTV slows the reaction of the diaphram opening because the VTV is just a smaller passageway reducing how much vacuum pressure can get through. The larger/inner advancer will pull the arm further and gives more advance. One more interesting note is that the primary vacuum line "T"s off after the bvsv and goes to the VCV (vacuum control valve) EDIT: That controls the evap system
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g-man
SILVER Star
g-man
SILVER Star
this is red shows the primary vacuum line going to the dizzy.
- Thread starter
- #172
So I should feel a sizable difference when the vacuum lines are hooked up like there are supposed to? I pulled vacuum on both ports. Idle went up on both. So I assume it’s working.
g-man
SILVER Star
Let us know how it drives. Try the vacuum lines both ways and see if one is better.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
The outer advance diaphragm is meant for altitude compensation (HAC) approximately 6 degrees. The inner diaphragm is good for 16 degrees. I believe the centrifugal ( when operating normally) is 10 degrees.
g-man
SILVER Star
Here's another visual of the spark control system (vacuum advancer lines) from the 2f emissions manual. The image on the right is the primary advancer port on the passenger side of the carb.
- Thread starter
- #177
To be clear. There is no vacuum at these ports on the dizzy when at idle?
- Thread starter
- #179
Ok the 14 degrees advanced is the set up that worked the best for me. Vacuum advance hoses connected the way it originally should be.
Now I have a real good manifold exhaust leak.
How difficult is it to remove intake and exhaust manifolds? Do I replace the gasket rings on the horns? Then machine them together for sure.
Then carb heat shield, gasket from manifold to carb?
Then OEM manifold gaskets?
Now I have a real good manifold exhaust leak.
How difficult is it to remove intake and exhaust manifolds? Do I replace the gasket rings on the horns? Then machine them together for sure.
Then carb heat shield, gasket from manifold to carb?
Then OEM manifold gaskets?
First find a machine shop that has experience machining this manifold. Get that lined up. Call around.
Removing the manifold is a weekend morning job. You should have it off before lunch.
Just use the Toyota manifold gasket.
Removing the manifold is a weekend morning job. You should have it off before lunch.
Just use the Toyota manifold gasket.
