Build Live in Texas, drive a pickup: HDJ79 single cab build

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@Gun Runner 5 I don’t think I’ve vacuumed a car out and detailed it since I took my mom’s 1992 Green Chevy Blazer to the prom. In 1994.
 
Today I got a bunch of little stuff done. Correct AC idler bracket, idler pulley, and belt. even though I had new bolts, I kept the 2006 yellow cad ones. Because vintage and dirty can be cool.
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Brake pedal return spring arrived from cruiser parts.

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Does anyone know what these two clusters of connectors do? Power windows to driver‘s door?

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Antenna. Compared to modern vehicles good God this thing has got to be 4 feet long. I took the left outer fender off to make install easier. Probably didn’t need to.

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Windshield washer reservoir. Had to take the battery tray out. I’m sure I don’t have the right connector because nothing matches on the harness. I’ll have to figure out where the washer reservoir is on a 1999-2006. On my 74 series it’s on the passenger fender well. Crap.

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Battery hold down and nut. My group 34 battery was too short. So I put in custom riser blocks until a plastic spacer block arrives Friday. Battery is now held snugly.

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Fancy. That’s me.
 
Alternator cap part number just so I don’t lose it. The non-OEM alternator post was too tall so I had to electrical tape this in place. That’s not satisfying, but at least I can’t shock myself.

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Windshield washer reservoir. Had to take the battery tray out. I’m sure I don’t have the right connector because nothing matches on the harness. I’ll have to figure out where the washer reservoir is on a 1999-2006. On my 74 series it’s on the passenger fender well. Crap.

Hello,

The reservoir is on the passenger side on 1999-2006 trucks.






Juan
 
God$&mn OCD.

Homemade solution worked just fine. But OEM solution was available.

M6 bolt that holds the heater valve to the firewall.

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So yesterday was a big day without a lot of pictures. I replaced all four brake calipers with new OEM (my God they’re beautiful), with new rear discs and all new lines and hardware.

Halfway through the day @DrRock arrived in his badass FZJ75 after 3 days of driving from the East Coast. He drove right in and with two sets of hands, the brakes went a lot faster.

As we bench blood, the master, a huge amount of disgusting junk came out. I’ve always thought of a master cylinder as a single used disposal item… Not when @DrRock is around. We disassembled both that I had on hand, cleaned out a ton of corrosion and junk, verified that the seals were good, and reassembled to make one good one. We bench bled, adjusted push rod, and started to bleed the brakes. We got through the rears and then all of a sudden realized that there must’ve been a bad brake flare on one of the front circuit lines. There was at least a quart of brake fluid all over the entire engine bay. We frantically cleaned it to prevent paint loss, but it definitely took some off the frame and the powder coated valve cover. We redid the flare and started to bleed the front… And all of a sudden, the long line to the rear had an unstoppable leak. So I called it for the day.

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Thank you @DrRock for a helluva day of progress.

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Small asides: the FTE for the 79 series uses an oil pressure switch, not a sender. I replaced the sender with a Japanese but non OEM switch. This style switch is what Mick designed his harness to work with.

OEM p/n 83530-60030. I swear partsouq was out 2 weeks ago.

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The water temp gauge had an incorrect female end for the harness. I bought a new gauge, thinking it was some late model variant and in attempting to remove the old one found it was a stupid adapter harness. Why the late Euro spec FTE has this is a mystery to me.

Mick’s harness bolted right up to the original gauge, and now I have a spare. All sensors are working now.
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Also, the overflow bottle bracket arrived. Small steps, one at a time.
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Transfer case/reverse light indicator switch tech:

This was a pleasant shock. Basically there are three different indicator switches: h55/BF1a reverse light/4WD indicator, r151 reverse light/4WD indicator, and HF1A/2a T case indicator.

They are all interchangeable. The h55/R151 uses the same old-school Sumitomo connector; the r151 has a longer pigtail and the wires come off of the top of the switch not the side.. The HFxa uses the more modern short plug switch (84222-12010).

So for my build, I am using an R151 transmission harness (82125-60174) and R151 switch (84222-60022) into the HF1A transfer case.

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I have a very patient girlfriend.

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So yesterday was a big day without a lot of pictures. I replaced all four brake calipers with new OEM (my God they’re beautiful), with new rear discs and all new lines and hardware.

Halfway through the day @DrRock arrived in his badass FZJ75 after 3 days of driving from the East Coast. He drove right in and with two sets of hands, the brakes went a lot faster.

As we bench blood, the master, a huge amount of disgusting junk came out. I’ve always thought of a master cylinder as a single used disposal item… Not when @DrRock is around. We disassembled both that I had on hand, cleaned out a ton of corrosion and junk, verified that the seals were good, and reassembled to make one good one. We bench bled, adjusted push rod, and started to bleed the brakes. We got through the rears and then all of a sudden realized that there must’ve been a bad brake flare on one of the front circuit lines. There was at least a quart of brake fluid all over the entire engine bay. We frantically cleaned it to prevent paint loss, but it definitely took some off the frame and the powder coated valve cover. We redid the flare and started to bleed the front… And all of a sudden, the long line to the rear had an unstoppable leak. So I called it for the day.

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Thank you @DrRock for a helluva day of progress.

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Thanks for the shout out @bottombracket, great to spend time with you working on your truck. This was just the brain reset I needed after driving 1800 miles. Keep up the great work! See you again in a month or so.
 
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