Build Live in Texas, drive a pickup: HDJ79 single cab build

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I’m going to have a lot of electrical connectors to unsnarl. The new old stock harness that I have is a 2000 to 2006. My truck is a 3/09 build. It’s the very last of the metal dash trucks, but it has a new style firewall and wide front end. So in general, almost every electrical connector in the engine bay with the exception of the headlights will need to be modified, altered, or spliced. I have a correct 2007 to 6/2009 used mine truck harness from cruiserparts but I just can’t bring myself to cannibalize it. But it’s probably more work to try to repair that harness then to alter the harness that I’ve got. We shall see.

I halfheartedly tried to wire the turn signalslast night, but gave up at midnight.

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I’m going to have a lot of electrical connectors to unsnarl. The new old stock harness that I have is a 2000 to 2006. My truck is a 3/09 build. It’s the very last of the metal dash trucks, but it has a new style firewall and wide front end. So in general, almost every electrical connector in the engine bay with the exception of the headlights will need to be modified, altered, or spliced. I have a correct 2007 to 6/2009 used mine truck harness from cruiserparts but I just can’t bring myself to cannibalize it. But it’s probably more work to try to repair that harness then to alter the harness that I’ve got. We shall see.

I halfheartedly tried to wire the turn signalslast night, but gave up at midnight.

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The right tools for the job are paramount for successful electrical work. Looks like you are headed in the right direction though. If you need any butt splices etc. there is a kit in my 75 at your place in the left hand drawer in the bed. Pull it out and you will find a blue dry bag inside with a host of high quality splices etc inside a black pouch, the proper crimp tool and some assorted other electrical stuff. All the connectors are crimp with heat shrink covering so you can use a heat gun to seal the deal, so to speak. Please help yourself :).
 
@DrRock thank you! I have very many good-quality heat shrink butt connectors, shrink wrap, terminal pins, depinning tools, wire, and good crimp tools. I’m just hoping I don’t have to use most of those things.
 
Tonight‘s big move was completing a wiring harness to convert the narrow nose turn signal and clearance lamp to wide nose.

Headlight switch remains the same.

I used aftermarket connectors:

Male 3 way pin: 90980-11015
Turn signal female 90980-11019
Clearance lamp female 90080-11156

Right turn signal:

Ground wire is white with black trace, right turn signal is green with yellow trace, clearance lamp is solid green.

Left turn signal:

Ground wire is white with black trace left turn signal is green with black trace, clearance lamp is solid green.

Turn signal socket: 90075–99078
Turn signal bulb: 99132–11210
Clearance lamp socket: 90075–60077
Clearance lamp bulb 99132–12050

Amazingly, I misplaced the second clearance lamp connector so I’ve got to wait a couple of days to build the left-hand harness.

But I installed the right sided headlight and I’ll be damned if that didn’t feel pretty good. It bolts in using weird little bolts (90109–06334 x4). Everything works: clearance lamp, low beam, high beam, high beam, flash function, turn, signal, hazards.

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Tonight‘s small move was making an extension harness for the windshield washer motor.

The female connector is the same as the turn signal (90980-11019).

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I extended it with some 16 gauge wire.

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The fun part was figuring out the polarity. I could easily measure the polarity of the existing switch with my multimeter… But I figured out the polarity of the existing motor by filling the washer reservoir with water, hooking up its clear hose, and giving it 12V. In one orientation it shot about 3 feet and then the other about 12. This incredibly scientific test of squirting my stream proved to be pretty definitive.

The Prestone brake fluid is the correct orientation and the Rudy’s BBQ cup is the wrong one. Pretty funny.

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Also the hood to cowl seal (53383–60040) and its screws (90159–50244). Sitting in place as a placeholder until I get the wiper link in.

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You need a garage cleanout /reorganization project after this drives.
 
Your “stick-to-it-ness” in this project is very admirable. 👍
 
More connectors arrived today and I built the left-hand headlight harness. I covered it with wire loom. Trimmed it at angles. Taped the ends all nice. It was a work of art.

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And then I realized that the left side turn signal had to be extended about 2.5 feet to accommodate for the washer bottle, which completely blocked the path of the wiring.

After extending it, I ran it through the fender and it fit nicely.

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We now have working headlights, turn signals, clearance lamps, brake lights, reverse light. Things are looking up.

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I don’t know why this was so satisfying, but I love the fact that when I snapped the headlight in place, all the bolt holes lined up, perfectly centered. Just as they should.

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Net up is a/c. I have all the main components but the suction manifold will be an issue. I picked up a John Deere manifold and will probably have my local a/c hose shop convert to #8/10 hose ends.
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Dave the condenser and every part of the system is brand new and everything bolts up. I don’t want to swap condensers now unless I have to. Austin Rebuilders on South Oltorf can crimp #8/ and #10 fittings on my existing hoses.

Somewhere I think I have a spare flat suction manifold that I used on the soft top 74… But his luck would have it. I can’t find it in the shop. Who knew?
 
I need to find this. It’s here in the shop somewhere. Toyota 88371-60300/Denso 447138-0921/-0922.


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I'm fortunate if I can find an item I sat down 10 minutes ago :doh:
 
Got a few AC updates to share later but tonight I shoved this great big @&?ker in front of the truck.

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