Builds Lemonade - 1967 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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I'm honestly not even sure if the fronts are ball and claw still or birfs. Can you tell by just looking at them?

Running a booster with this year is a pita right? Because of the firewall rib?

Also...while I do really enjoy nice s*** and a frame off would be cool, I really don't want to be doing tedious s*** for the next 14 months.

You are probably correct .... Birfield was introduced in '68.

There are several workarounds regarding the firewall rib. @jamesurq .... can you post up a pic of the brake booster on your '69?
 
After doing no some research, it appears that running pwr steering and the F135 do not mix. It has been done by @kevos37 recently but his path seems to all hinge on a super duper very very very rare double groove harmonic balancer.

Unfortunately some PO way down the line decided the Toyota manual steering was garbage and removed it for some other manual steering setup like the typical Saginaw pwr steering setup.

My options suck. 1) remove the manual Jerry rigged s*** in there now, patch the front crossmember and frame horn then locate a manual Toyota setup to bolt in. 2) search for this super duper rare harmonic balancer then copy @kevos37 setup but with a Saginaw box where my manual contraption is.

Anyone have a spare balancer handy? @65swb45 or @cruiseroutfit
 
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After doing no some research, it appears that running pwr steering and the F135 do not mix. It has been done by @kevos37 recently but his path seems to all hinge on a super duper very very very rare double groove harmonic balancer.

Unfortunately some PO way down the line decided the Toyota manual steering was garbage and removed it for some other manual steering setup like the typical Saginaw pwr steering setup.

My options suck. 1) remove the manual Jerry rigged s*** in there now, patch the front crossmember and frame horn then locate a manual Toyota setup to bolt in. 2) search for this super duper rare harmonic balancer then copy @kevos37 setup but with a Saginaw box where my manual contraption is.

Anyone have a spare balancer handy? @65swb45 or @cruiseroutfit
One of the options was a bolt on pulley to the existing pulley/harmonic balancer. I looked and to no avail could not locate one, that's how I ended up going with the Dual pulley setup. Another alternative would be to consult a machine shop and have a bolt on pulley manufactured. It wouldn't be cheap but it would resolve that hurdle.
 
After doing no some research, it appears that running pwr steering and the F135 do not mix. It has been done by @kevos37 recently but his path seems to all hinge on a super duper very very very rare double groove harmonic balancer.

Unfortunately some PO way down the line decided the Toyota manual steering was garbage and removed it for some other manual steering setup like the typical Saginaw pwr steering setup.

My options suck. 1) remove the manual Jerry rigged s*** in there now, patch the front crossmember and frame horn then locate a manual Toyota setup to bolt in. 2) search for this super duper rare harmonic balancer then copy @kevos37 setup but with a Saginaw box where my manual contraption is.

Anyone have a spare balancer handy? @65swb45 or @cruiseroutfit

An Fj60 2f would be an economical option 3 that wouldnt be much more $$ than an unobtainium pulley. Youd get more hp and a better ignition system plus paired with Georg's sag power steering conversion kit, its a great setup. With the saginaw steering killing originality, the 2f is a great option.
 
One of the options was a bolt on pulley to the existing pulley/harmonic balancer. I looked and to no avail could not locate one, that's how I ended up going with the Dual pulley setup. Another alternative would be to consult a machine shop and have a bolt on pulley manufactured. It wouldn't be cheap but it would resolve that hurdle.

Totally forgot about the bolt on pulley possibility. Was it really that hard to find the double groove press-on harmonic balancer?

Do you have any other pics of the new alternator mount you fabricated?

You wouldn't happen to have a spare double groove pulley would you :D?

I'm guessing the biggest issue with running a pwr steering pump above the alternator is b/c of interference with the air cleaner? If this could be remedied then running it setup like this would work on just the single pulley, yes?

Wondering if the air cleaner could be turned so the 'pot' part is on the passenger side of the engine secured via some fabricated mount? I'm not with the truck ATM so kinda just thinking out loud.

An Fj60 2f would be an economical option 3 that wouldnt be much more $$ than an unobtainium pulley. Youd get more hp and a better ignition system plus paired with Georg's sag power steering conversion kit, its a great setup. With the saginaw steering killing originality, the 2f is a great option.

Agreed, a 2F would easily be the cheapest and easiest way but the F135 just seems so cool. I'm not sticking to 100% correct with this build but also want to leverage what it's currently got to a certain reasonable extent.
 
Totally forgot about the bolt on pulley possibility. Was it really that hard to find the double groove press-on harmonic balancer?

Do you have any other pics of the new alternator mount you fabricated?

You wouldn't happen to have a spare double groove pulley would you :D?

I'm guessing the biggest issue with running a pwr steering pump above the alternator is b/c of interference with the air cleaner? If this could be remedied then running it setup like this would work on just the single pulley, yes?

Wondering if the air cleaner could be turned so the 'pot' part is on the passenger side of the engine secured via some fabricated mount? I'm not with the truck ATM so kinda just thinking out loud.



Agreed, a 2F would easily be the cheapest and easiest way but the F135 just seems so cool. I'm not sticking to 100% correct with this build but also want to leverage what it's currently got to a certain reasonable extent.
I got the pulley from Mark . Marksoffroad. It comes from the firetruck version. That version requires an extra belt to run the hydraulic pump. I wanted to stay with the original theme of mine. But the F135 was a pita to restore and modify. I think the newer version would offer alot more versatilty. I can send you some more pictures of the alternator mount. It is going to require some fabrication to mount the air cleaner.
 
Factory baby blue. My 67 was the same. The brakes are out of it most likely because the pre 68 used a weird fitting everywhere. Like everywhere. Not a standard metric on it. Way better to change out anyways. Run mini truck PS. Easy and works fine on the 135. I ran it for years.
I have an old booster adaptor from wardens on mine. Not an option anymore.
Unreal score. Those clear front markers are unobtainable, afaik. Let me know if you have any questions, the early ones can be a little funky on some stuff.
I have a friend with some early stuff if you need it. Mine is far from stock now.

As mentioned above; go with electronic ignition. Not an expensive swap and well worth it.
 
Factory baby blue. My 67 was the same. The brakes are out of it most likely because the pre 68 used a weird fitting everywhere. Like everywhere. Not a standard metric on it. Way better to change out anyways. Run mini truck PS. Easy and works fine on the 135. I ran it for years.
I have an old booster adaptor from wardens on mine. Not an option anymore.
Unreal score. Those clear front markers are unobtainable, afaik. Let me know if you have any questions, the early ones can be a little funky on some stuff.
I have a friend with some early stuff if you need it. Mine is far from stock now.

As mentioned above; go with electronic ignition. Not an expensive swap and well worth it.

Awesome - thanks.

I am definitely needing some parts, not many but some. Specifically an Aisan single barrel carb. I also plan to get rid of the 9mm brake stuff or at least everywhere necessary. I've got a lead on some drum axles from a 71 that should work great for my purposes.

Do you have pics of how you mounted your pwr steering pump for the mini truck setup?
 
So I just looked at Kevos37’s build thread and retract my offer for help. He will sure know better. Goodness! Unreal build.
I’ll ask my buddy If he has the carb. Might. No pics of PS as I am now an SBC setup. I’ll dig through old pics but I doubt it. Sorry!
 
So I just looked at Kevos37’s build thread and retract my offer for help. He will sure know better. Goodness! Unreal build.
I’ll ask my buddy If he has the carb. Might. No pics of PS as I am now an SBC setup. I’ll dig through old pics but I doubt it. Sorry!

Ha - yeah his attention to detail is off the charts.

It would be super if you could share at least details on your pwr steering pump setup. You may have been running a Weber or some non stock air cleaner tho which would greatly ease the mounting difficulties were discussing.
 
Sub’d. We will talk.

Mark - called to leave a message and your vm cut me off...I've got a long list. Here it is.

Mark listing
- 2 groove harmonic balancer
- semi float rear axle rebuild kit
- front axle rebuild kit
- year correct heater box
- Saginaw pitman arm, relay rod tie rod end
- dual circuit master and adapter plate
- F135 engine parts
Valve cover gasket
Side cover cork gasket
Timing cover cork gasket
Timing cover crank seal
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal
Spark plugs
Plug wires
Distributor
Coil and external resistor
Distributor o-ring
Distributor cap and gasket
Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets
Voltage regulator
Water pump
Thermostat and housing gasket
Radiator hoses upper and lower (style for heater provision)
 
I will be happy to put a quote together when I get into the shop. Thanks.
 
You are probably correct .... Birfield was introduced in '68.

There are several workarounds regarding the firewall rib. @jamesurq .... can you post up a pic of the brake booster on your '69?

Sorry for the delay.
C20684D3-CAF3-4388-B4E4-5DC3A678BBA7.jpeg
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Coil question...

I believe the '67 did not use an external resistor...so wouldn't the coil from a 60 series work appropriately since it has the resistor internal to the coil?
 
About to pull the plug on some seat covers from SOR...what's the consensus of Coral vs Black? I know black would've been stock in '67 but coral might look good against the faded yellow.
 

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