Builds Lemonade - 1967 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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And keep in mind, this is NOT the huge step backwards that the MIBS crowd would have you believe. Scott Dorsey showed up to the first Rubithon back in ‘89 in his bone stock ‘73 and 700x15s. The trail committee tried really hard to talk him in to going home.

When they were done, I took him aside and said “I don’t know you from Adam, but if you get in line behind me I will pick a line that if you can follow it, you will not get body damage. Just PLEASE take off the running boards!”

He did. And he ran the Rubicon without any body damage.

Disclaimer: I have spent the last thirty years also refining the art of driving in the slow lane.
 
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Here is where you can buy reproductions of those great looking period correct hubcaps at a reasonable price.

Early Acorn Hubcaps

Ha! One step ahead of you David!! Btw...these are really nice. Not sure, but were the originals just as sturdy feeling as these repros?

 
Ha! One step ahead of you David!! Btw...these are really nice. Not sure, but were the originals just as sturdy feeling as these repros?
My LV did not come with its original hubcaps and I bought my repros from a different guy so I’m not qualified to say. I’ve only heard good things about these.
 
Going back to the tire question, I was thinking about the Power Kings for my ‘64 FST, but don’t like directional tread, and they don’t look quite as beefy as I’d prefer. So I paid a few bucks more for STA Super Traxion 7.00-15 instead. The tread is wider, bigger lugs, and non-directional. Got them on today, very pleased with the look. Haven’t got brave enough to install my set of repro hubcaps yet...

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I've pretty much decided 100% on 7.00-15 tires. @oregon fj Where did you pickup the STAs from?

They look great btw!
 
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Been reading your thread--- really nice rig you got there!!! I love the mainly stock aspect to it-- a real find!! Will be watching your build! M
 
I like the Yokos, but they are expensive, and really should be mounted tubeless on newer welded wheels. Plus I’d want a 5th one for the spare, being radials. The cost for 5 of them and 5 new wheels was more than I wanted to spend.
 
Pulled plugs, squirted some marvel oil into each cylinder and pulled the valve cover. So far so good...no glaring issues. The plugs might not have been F135 correct as the replacements I picked up are shorter. They weren't banged up though.

As long as the oil doesn't look to have any surprises and the engine rotates freely then I likely won't dig into it any further. I have no indications from the PO of any issues.

Dang valve cover was glued on, lol!





 
The engine in mine looked very much the same. Spun freely, so I poured oil over the valve train, and cranked it with the plugs out and fuel disconnected to get oil pressure up. Mine runs well now with fresh ignition bits, new fuel pump and filter, and a thorough rebuild of the carb. I suspect yours will be similar.

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Seriously considering passing this one onto the next person...I've acquired another project that I'd like to start on and this one needs to go beforehand. I've posted it on our local club section and hope to get a proper FS thread up soon...
 
Got motivated this evening and decided to start actually doing something...

Pulled and tore down the front seats in preparation to drop them off at the blaster. I purchased a set of Spector covers and foam...assuming I can toss all the old foam/burlap padding?

Found 22 cents; pennies from '68 and '71 and dimes from '77 and '74. Was nice for each and every bolt to come loose with no issues. Maybe that's an omen of how this refresh will go!





 
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Dropped seat frames off at the blaster earlier today. Should be ready next week.

Continued tear down and broke 1 bolt...not bad. I have been soaking with Kroil for a couple weeks. Drained the rad and antifreeze was still green which was a plus.

It appears the rad is original and in OK shape minus some fins near the front top section. Am I better off to just bite the bullet and get a new oem or have this one cleaned? If I go new, should the current oem version fit? I think it's 4 vs 3 core like the current one.

I'm struggling with how deep I go on this one. My appetite for another frame off is minuscule at best. My plan was to clean, rewire, replace soft parts, pull drive train and clean/rebuild as needed. Am I making a huge mistake by not taking it just that much farther and paint the body??

 
No, you are not making a huge mistake by not taking it further and painting the body.
Leave the body as is.
That was how I read @Marty's response.
Great truck either way, enjoy.:cool:
 
No, you are not making a huge mistake by not taking it further and painting the body.
Leave the body as is.
That was how I read @Marty's response.
Great truck either way, enjoy.:cool:

Sorry for the unclear post. Right you are Sterling and I agree with you as well--great rig either way!
 

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