LC100 2006 axle elocker retrofit?

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winstonclein

winstonclein

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I have been tried to look for a post on this behalf, but not success yet on my especific questions.
Can I fit an elocker axle from 98-99 100 to a 06-07 100 with little or easy work? Or it'll be a PITA.
It will be worthier to fix another lockers instead?
I just put 285/75R18 and if I got the 98-99 axle I'll get the 4.30 for the front, but I also can go 4.88 R&P for both.
 
Winston - I have an e-locker diff from my 98 with the actuator, magic dial, and computer sitting in my garage. You will need the matching 4.30 front gears or regear entirely to 4.88. I am unsure if the e-locker diff will fit the open diff housing. If you find more information let's discuss.
 
What Duc said. If the carrier and housing will fit, then the 20 year old OEM locker will require rehab and a fair bit of retro engineering, including actuators, wiring, electronics.

If you are going to are going to regear, then why not lock both ends with new diffs front and rear? With the front diff housing open, you might as well swap out the diff as well. In addition to several air options, you can also go electric with the Harrop Eaton ELockerTM from Terrain Tamer 4WDD (including full install kit with OEM Koyo bearings).

The Eaton-based Harrops have some advantages over OEM electric (simpler, stronger and no external components). Yes, this is a biased comment (we are importer/distributor) but my partners and I offer Harrops to meet demand from Land Cruiser owners not satisfied with other options, including OEM electric. Any competent shop can handle the install and there are a number of 100s and LX 470s running around with matched Harrops. They are installing a set this week at Javier’s Autos Unlimited / Gulf Coast Crawl Shop - suggest you stop by and ask the experts.

Call with questions or if you want help with pricing. Whatever the path you take, good luck!
 
duggy said:
Winston - I have an e-locker diff from my 98 with the actuator, magic dial, and computer sitting in my garage. You will need the matching 4.30 front gears or regear entirely to 4.88. I am unsure if the e-locker diff will fit the open diff housing. If you find more information let's discuss.
Click to expand...

I'll talk to you later Duc.
 
Any more info on this? Is it totally unrealistic to swap a 98 rear axle into a 2006? I found a locking rear axle with 50k miles but forgot the gear ratios changed with the a750f and now am wondering if it would be as 'plugnplay' as I'd hoped.
 
zipdoa said:
Any more info on this? Is it totally unrealistic to swap a 98 rear axle into a 2006? I found a locking rear axle with 50k miles but forgot the gear ratios changed with the a750f and now am wondering if it would be as 'plugnplay' as I'd hoped.
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It can be done but why in the hell would you? There is no magic in the 20+ year old stock oem e-locker. Zuk ( a forum member) will charge you $1100 parts + $250 in labor + shipping both ways and install a new harrop e-locker. Just install the OEM factory E locker switch (found on ebay, $50) if you want it for the nostalgia and want it to feel OEM. Rest assured Toyota had someone else manufacture that e-locker, so it's really no different, except you won't be installing someone else's old problem.
 
forum.ih8mud.com

Adding F/R lockers to 2003 Land Cruiser

I am about to embark on a journey to add front and rear lockers to my 2003 Land Cruiser. I will try to document my efforts for posterity and I am sure I will have questions along the way. Advice, tips/tricks or lessons learned are always welcome. Let me know if there is something specific you...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

Unmatched bang for your buck, but it is a minor amount of hassle to install. Working not-particularly-quickly, it took me a full day to do the rear, and another to swap the front out. It's best to source a 4-pinion front third, or have your current one rebuilt by a gear shop. All in I got a minor ratio bump and a rear locker for ~$1100, most of which was regearing the front.
 
Patassa said:
It can be done but why in the hell would you? There is no magic in the 20+ year old stock oem e-locker. Zuk ( a forum member) will charge you $1100 parts + $250 in labor + shipping both ways and install a new harrop e-locker. Just install the OEM factory E locker switch (found on ebay, $50) if you want it for the nostalgia and want it to feel OEM. Rest assured Toyota had someone else manufacture that e-locker, so it's really no different, except you won't be installing someone else's old problem.
Click to expand...

I'm not disagreeing with you on harrop being a nice option for the front, but am I missing something on the early 100s rear axle/e locker being a problem?
 
They (the toyota) rot away, that's their only problem. It's made of a silly material.
I believe the axle housing has to be swapped as well or bored/cut to fit the oem elocker. It's doable, but the carrier has to come off, so it's not a pleasant job. And because it's probably easier to do with the axle housing removed from the truck, it's just easier to swap in a complete early axle housing.

On the other hand, you could fit an ARB locker for less money / less work, but if I had the ATRAC, I wouldn't want the rear locker. I don't have it (atrac), and in the last 1.5 years, I've only used the rear locker about twice, even though I take it off the road every month. The thing is that the 100 is not the best trialler truck no matter how many lockers you have, but it will handle "normal" offroad situations pretty well with the center locked only (or even without that). I can imagine that if it would be coupled with the ATRAC, it would be really great. A winch would be a wiser way to spend your money.
 
Any locker you fit means the thirds/carriers come out. Retrofitting the early third involves swapping an axle shaft and grinding a bit on your current housing. That linked thread shows the half moon sort of shape that needs to be cut.

I don't know enough about the rotting part. I got mine from a SALTY axle (so much that grinding my current axle was the cleaner job) and the locker actuator was...fine.
 
My 98 locking diff works just as good 140k miles later..... it’s just as good as the first day it came off the line.
 
Okay. Sorry I’ve shared my thoughts.
 
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