Katit's LX470 2000 - take #2

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Small things, but lots of work.. Rear door cover/carpet were filthy. Also, some water got in and destroyed backing making panel crooked (corners raised)
Decided to re-do this panel. I already had speaker tape. ANd I had hole punchers and big scissors. And upholstery glue.

I had to buy staple gun. This one shoots 1/8 deep staples. My T50 gun is too big. So special staples and gun had to be purchased. I was on a fence, but I remember that somewhere in seats (maybe backs and center console?) I will need it again.

Process and results. Looking great now!

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New seatbelts -I didn't even think to look.

Spent way too many hours soaking them and running various cleaning fluids through them with my little upholstery cleaner.
 
New seatbelts -I didn't even think to look.

Spent way too many hours soaking them and running various cleaning fluids through them with my little upholstery cleaner.
Yep. This is what I did with other truck. But this one was so bad I figured I would do it. If I didn’t mess up one - all was done in 2hr
 
Thanks for posting the work in progress. Sounds like you have the master key without the buttons, which means you can program the new keys without using a computer. The master looked similar to the valet key but was black instead of gray, and it will open the glove box. I have not found the simple master available from dealer for a few years. They restricted the number of masters that could be registered to the system in later years, so I expect there was less demand.
 
Thanks for posting the work in progress. Sounds like you have the master key without the buttons, which means you can program the new keys without using a computer. The master looked similar to the valet key but was black instead of gray, and it will open the glove box. I have not found the simple master available from dealer for a few years. They restricted the number of masters that could be registered to the system in later years, so I expect there was less demand.
Will see. I just go newly cut eBay keys, didn't get to try them yet. I have Techstream if it will be needed. Actually I will most likely use Techstream as it's easier
 
Some of the worst part is over. Cleaning years of filth. Carpets under rear seat wouldn't clean completely, it's OK, won't see it after seat in place. But other than that - came up 100% better. Some padding had to be replaced. Rear carpet was soaked in what looks like oil, so we degreased cleaned and removed/replaced padding. Kiddo did most of the cleaning, I just helped with cutting padding and with advice on how to proceed. Installed new carpet hooks.




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Phew... Big unknown is now OK. I had just one key with a car, which looked like master key (but no remote). According to eBay seller it was most likely master because there was no "security" light blink when I insert it. And yep, it was master.

So, I ordered 2 cut keys from here ($60 shipped)

I am sure it's been 100 times here on forums, but I will summarize in my words what's going on with programming/etc.

First of all - you need to order correct key. They should have correct chip for the year, etc, etc.

Once you have a key, you need to program 2 things:
1. CHIP for immobilizer (so key can start a car). To do that, you need to have MASTER key, otherwise no luck. I believe user @Mauser can fix issue if you don't have master key, but that requires shipping module to him. In my case - I had master, and I have Techstream, took few minutes to program both new keys!

2. You need to program remote. To make sure buttons work on a key. Instructions I got from eBay seller didn't work (car wouldn't go into program mode). Instructions I found here on forum didn't work either. For my 2000 LX 470 following worked. And I found this on YouTube:
LOCK all doors (with a button to actually lock them)
OPEN Driver door
Insert key in and remove it
RUN LOCK switch on driver door 5 times (on/off)
CLOSE driver door
OPEN driver door
RUN LOCK switch on driver door 5 times (on/off)
KEY IN
TURN ON-OFF - 2x times
KEY OUT
---- AT THIS POINT - you should hear and see locks actuating meaning car is in "programming" mode. Other methods didn't do it.
Then you program as many keys by pressing Lock/Unlock button and holding for about 2 seconds, then pressing other button.

I got both keys working, really happy about that because I wasn't even sure if this car has remote system working..
But there is few issues which I need to figure out:
1. When I lock - locks "lazy" not always closing and I am not sure which one is bad, so car beeps, locks want to "close" but then spring back.
2. Remote only forks when key is outside of driver door. If I go behind a car, or next to passenger door - remote key doesn't work.

Will be posting separate topic with question about this if no one responds, but this feels like quick victory..

Now AC OTOH - I couldn't find anything in TechStream to read it (like temp sensor), so this one will need attention. Currently AC works only when I run it in COLD. Any other temperature - it blows hot air.

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Received belt I messed up. First purchase on eBay was no good (no retract). Returned and re-ordered from eBay different one. For LC. Same belt different color, but I had all colored parts so no big deal. Replaced webbing - all is well.
One thing for anybody who will try to do the same - webbing is NOT the same size. I measured 47mm original. Replacement bulk webbing maybe 1-2mm wider. It doesn't make any difference on rear belts, but on fronts, those spools is so tight - I had to force tight first couple loops. Hard to explain, but it kind of makes sense once you do it. In short - I wouldn't trust "it's one safety standard blah, blah" and order 47mm webbing. Definitely not readily advertised. Anyways, belts are good. They are not retracted all the way, so it won't be an issue. Hopefully I still have enough to finish center belt on 2nd row.

And small things that make you feel good.. Stupid wobbling mirror. 2 screws were loose(locktite) and spring clip needed to be bent just a little. All is well now. At least some progress today!

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As promised - "nothing to lose" attempt to fix PRNDL panel. Longevity TBD. Looks 100% better. I will get plastic polish and apply as well (any suggestion? Need to polish speedo glass as well)

Basically I scraped loose bubbling sticker stuff from a back. I went on and scraped more. As you see those oval indicator holes were part of delamination, so they had to go. I only was able to leave "P" indicator. Others had to be scraped. You would ask why I didn't make those ovals out of tape and paint over? Well, first of all, scratches. Second, it would look like crap (no sharp lines). I figured I'd rather have it all black. I have indication on speedo, it's OK.

Time will tell if it lasts, but for 15 minutes of work it's worth it.

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This is how dash looks. On steering column - I need new tilt motor, new tele- bushing, new small bushings to remove play. I found lose connector for AC temperature sensor, confirmed HVAC working correctly now.

Need to remove cluster and HVAC panels and take care of all bulbs. Getting there...

Need to study a little on tilt motor install. Looks like it's a tricky one. What I did with old one - I removed top circlip and just unscrew it. But sounds like I will need to figure out it's border positions (on new motor) and then install it appropriately.

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I am little puzzled. I am thinking I can tell repaired truck vs original. I look at everything and it is original. I see where work was done, but body-wise - all good. I can't tell any repairs. And none in a carfax history.

But some things just stand our and I wonder if it's supposed to be like that? Maybe because it's 2000 and early one they were semi-manually assembled?
It's got ARACO stickers on it. And it's got VIN stickers on all doors. And it's got Toyota glass (I think my 2001 was Lexus, or maybe I don't remember)

Things I am noticing. Is it factory?
1. See overspray on those covers that close taillight on rear door?
2. See on steering wheel bunch of different marks with white marker, colored angled, etc?
3. Same on rear tail light behind cover, I see white markings with sharpie, similar to what they do on junk yards.

I am puzzled :)

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I am little puzzled. I am thinking I can tell repaired truck vs original. I look at everything and it is original. I see where work was done, but body-wise - all good. I can't tell any repairs. And none in a carfax history.

But some things just stand our and I wonder if it's supposed to be like that? Maybe because it's 2000 and early one they were semi-manually assembled?
It's got ARACO stickers on it. And it's got VIN stickers on all doors.

Things I am noticing. Is it factory?
1. See overspray on those covers that close taillight on rear door?
2. See on steering wheel bunch of different marks with white marker, colored angled, etc?
3. Same on rear tailing behind cover, I see white markings with sharpie, similar to what they do on junk yards.

I am puzzled :)

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Steering has junkyard marks on it!
Do you still have the VIN sticker on the tailgate?
 
Yes, I have sticker. And right cover has exact same symmetrical overspray. Steering wheel doesn't look like it was ever removed. Also, wear on wheel matches wear on airbag. Also, look at how many markings on wheel. It does look like junk yard, but it's not :)

Heh.. Look at this one on ebay:



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Today was a "great bulb replacement day" along other things..
Rear taillights needed 3 bulbs.
Instrument cluster needed 4 bulbs.

AC console was most challenging. Windshield defrost wasn't working. There was couple things going on. First, button itself wasn't working(or maybe it did??) But, second, LED soldered on board was burnt. Yep, it was. I started to probe other soldered LEDs with 12V(DON"T DO THIS!!!!) and burned "A/C" LED.

Well.. What should we do? Conveniently enough, there was 2 spares covered by blank. I googled it's rear heat? But anyways, it's got 1 button and 2 LEDs. Green ones.

So, no my truck unique, Window defrost is green, not amber. I also swapped blue rubber contact caps between new one and defrost. Now everything works great.
Pictures show removed 2 LEDs and replaced into places of ones I burned.


See all LEDs work? Nice!

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LEDs already replacedf
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Before replacement - Amber LED..
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AC console needed 5(!!!) backling bulbs. I don't buy those. I bought stock of "rice grain" bulbs in different sizes and all I need it to just put them into old sockets. With smaller bulbs - I didn't have good match. Small bulb wouldn't hold green "condom" and larger doesn't quite fit. So I drilled out sockets a little and made it fit.

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Cleaning engine is always important for me. Removed battery, intake, masked some openings and went to town with foam gun, then scrub, then foam, then scrub, rinse. Then engine degreaser on some spots, brush, foam gun, rinse. You get a picture. Not ideal but now I see bolts and I don't see any wet spots. There is no leaks under car, but there was some wet spots around throttle control and on front right coil. Now that all is clean I will monitor on what's going on..

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