Joe’s '77 FJ40 Dream Build
- Thread starter FJsnoozer
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
How much to ship to Texas? 
I felt like updating. I've been pretty busy, but have been collecting parts behind the scenes. These beauties came in tonight from real steel cruisers. Made to order and arrived 7 days from my order. Great service and product!
Some other important parts have come in and others on their way...
E-brake assembly and ambi hinges thank to dbradford09.
Daystar body mounts
EL wire kit for dash from Amuerer
Early barn half doors for the rear from Steffan.
Monstaliner 2 gallon tintable kit, from Magnetman.
Quick hinges from 69LC
SOR sliding windows for the top.
Frame mounts to put 80 body on 77 frame
I need to order my shackles but have not decided on brand yet. I'm still waiting on my body guy to replace the Swiss cheesed floor pan. Then we will head down to monstaliner the tub.
I love MUD. I could not do this build without you guys. Also, anyone that knows of a gas tank neck in a friends parts pile, please let me know.
I felt like updating. I've been pretty busy, but have been collecting parts behind the scenes. These beauties came in tonight from real steel cruisers. Made to order and arrived 7 days from my order. Great service and product!
Some other important parts have come in and others on their way...
E-brake assembly and ambi hinges thank to dbradford09.
Daystar body mounts
EL wire kit for dash from Amuerer
Early barn half doors for the rear from Steffan.
Monstaliner 2 gallon tintable kit, from Magnetman.
Quick hinges from 69LC
SOR sliding windows for the top.
Frame mounts to put 80 body on 77 frame
I need to order my shackles but have not decided on brand yet. I'm still waiting on my body guy to replace the Swiss cheesed floor pan. Then we will head down to monstaliner the tub.
I love MUD. I could not do this build without you guys. Also, anyone that knows of a gas tank neck in a friends parts pile, please let me know.
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nice looking work so far on your project will be checking back for updates
- Thread starter
- #124
Thank you. This weekend I stayed down at my parents house so I could work on the truck off and on as I pleased. My cousin I tried to make a few repairs to the motor but where unsuccessful replacing the fuel pump because Carquests fuel pump does not fit Land Cruiser so anyone looking for 73 to 77 land cruiser do not order from Carquest, order the part from Napa or OEM Toyota.
I was able to fix my leaky head plug. I used a 1/4 for the final thread and screwed in an Allen plug with some JB epoxy. I removed the head bolt as recommended and used this nifty household item to prevent any shavings from getting in the motor. Buying the tap and die kit from tractor supply was the best purchase I've made all weekend.
At least I thought it was my best purchase until I pick this up for a steal from Lowe's this afternoon. Finally, Ive got a way to consolidate all my new Land cruiser tools. It's even got a digital clock and calendar in case I lose track of the days. It only needs a cruiser bottle opener from www.cruisercrap.com.
Although there are no other pictures, I got the doors and hard top disassembled so we can make the sheet metal repairs. My friend and paint and body man block sanded and removed some really bad dents. It was amazing to see what he could do with a hammer and dolly. I really lucked out when he moved in down the street. He says the run will be ready for body liner next weekend.
I was able to fix my leaky head plug. I used a 1/4 for the final thread and screwed in an Allen plug with some JB epoxy. I removed the head bolt as recommended and used this nifty household item to prevent any shavings from getting in the motor. Buying the tap and die kit from tractor supply was the best purchase I've made all weekend.
At least I thought it was my best purchase until I pick this up for a steal from Lowe's this afternoon. Finally, Ive got a way to consolidate all my new Land cruiser tools. It's even got a digital clock and calendar in case I lose track of the days. It only needs a cruiser bottle opener from www.cruisercrap.com.
Although there are no other pictures, I got the doors and hard top disassembled so we can make the sheet metal repairs. My friend and paint and body man block sanded and removed some really bad dents. It was amazing to see what he could do with a hammer and dolly. I really lucked out when he moved in down the street. He says the run will be ready for body liner next weekend.
The wife's toothbrush has always been useful for applying copper-grease antiseize to threads .... but I hadn't come across a decent use for her "feminine-care" products before.
Cheers mate
- Thread starter
- #126
This 3/4 hole bit worked wonders for getting the stock bushings out. They would eventually spin out. One shackle was completely seized, so I had to drill the bushing around the shackle bolt and fill with lithium grease.
All four shackles are now installed. Next up is the fuel pump.
All four shackles are now installed. Next up is the fuel pump.
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- Thread starter
- #127
New fuel pump installed. Ugh, I am going to have to paint the block,
- Thread starter
- #128
Since I know you guys love photos I figure I would start attaching a lot of the work that I'm doing. I do all of my posting from the iPhone app and I didn't realize how out of focus a lot of these pictures look because of the upload through the phone app. I'll go back through and upload all the photos and host higher quality pics as the progress gets more detailed.
This week we cut out the rust so we begin repairs.
This week we cut out the rust so we begin repairs.
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- Thread starter
- #129
I removed the original tub mounting tabs. A cut off wheel and a sheet metal hammer worked well. I mocked up the new mount to see where I will have to drill. I'll have to blast this piece and paint it.
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Nice work on those doors. Keep up the nifty job you are doing...
Nice work. I am using a 79 body on a 78 frame. I did the same ting you did. Just take the old mounts off the old frame and weld them to the new one. Worked out good for me.
- Thread starter
- #132
Doors almost done:
Now to finish off the tub floor and other door.
Now to finish off the tub floor and other door.
- Thread starter
- #133
Well, my quick door hinges have come in thanks to 69LC and my backordered Daystar body bushings are finally in. The first shipment I got was a set of FJ 55 bushings which Obviously would not work.
Progress has been slow not due to lack of days available to work on the truck but due to having to wait on my body man to finish up certain parts of the truck. At least the floor has been started now
We ran out of argon part way through.
While i have been delayed, i took advantage of the time and started clearing the property. As you may have notice if you follow my thread there are scattered everywhere which are now pretty much gone. There was quite a bit of old construction materials recyclables and junk lying around. I managed to pack a 20 cubic yard dumpster in a few hours, and take 3 trailers of scrap metal. I could tell that dad was taking it all away in the weeks leading to his death. He has all of the copper organized into a nice stack.
Now, a much needed cleaner workspace...the giant tank is a future BBQ pit for my uncle. It just needs a stack and a firebox.
Progress has been slow not due to lack of days available to work on the truck but due to having to wait on my body man to finish up certain parts of the truck. At least the floor has been started now
We ran out of argon part way through.
While i have been delayed, i took advantage of the time and started clearing the property. As you may have notice if you follow my thread there are scattered everywhere which are now pretty much gone. There was quite a bit of old construction materials recyclables and junk lying around. I managed to pack a 20 cubic yard dumpster in a few hours, and take 3 trailers of scrap metal. I could tell that dad was taking it all away in the weeks leading to his death. He has all of the copper organized into a nice stack.
Now, a much needed cleaner workspace...the giant tank is a future BBQ pit for my uncle. It just needs a stack and a firebox.
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- Thread starter
- #134
I Resin potted the EL wire for the gauges tonight.
I will drive down and sandblast some parts in the morning.
I will drive down and sandblast some parts in the morning.
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- Thread starter
- #136
Im so excited about the way thi turned out. The resin pot provides just enough shielding to dim the EL a bit. I finally had a chance to hook it up to 12v.
Before:
After:
The icing on the cake:
Before:
After:
The icing on the cake:
- Thread starter
- #138
Measure 5 times cut once.
Finally some progress.
Rear:
After looking at the 80 bumper and the 77 bumper, I decided it was not worth swapping on a new cross member. I notices there were 3 spotwelds on each body mount cup of the 80 bumper and decided to remove those. I am going to add plenty oof pictures for any of those who ever go this route. I apologize if it gets excessive.
The 79+ mounts are 2' 3 1/4" center to center.
78 and earlier are 2' 4 3/8"
I drilled out the mounts and cut out the frame with a die grinder and a hole saw to create the opening for the cups. The Hole for the cup to sit in is 1 1/2", but I do not recommend using that size whole saw. As you may know, these bits walk quite a bit. I used a 1" and opened it up with the die grinder. The 79+ cross members are significantly deeper to accomodate the mounting provisions.
Middle.
The Daystar bushings were kind of strange. The top bushing does not fit properly, but we were able to find a bronze gude at lowes and tractor supply that fit around it with the use of a Press. Now the upper and lower Bushing fit nicely together. once the tub is placed on the frame with the other two mounts, I will bolt the mount to the 80 frame wings that I sourced and use the body to actually align where these will be mounted and driilled for bolts.
Front (under cowl):
Thanks to the diagrams from the FSM. It seems as though the mounts are only 10 mm wider than the factory 77 holes. 1195 vs 1185. We drove over to Wimberly 4wd and took some measurements off a few 79-82. I knew that the under pillar mount angles upward on the new frames. This was hard to measure, but it looks to be 1/2-3/4. I plan to space this up with washers for now and make or buy a steel spacer to go in there once the measurements have been made.
The good news is that drilling the holes out went very well. We massaged the holes over 5mm and opened up the holes with the 1" hole saw. It turned out perfect for the new body bushings when mounted up.
Next trip down, I am going to put on the body and get everything welded and bolted up. Then I will remove the body and start the Monstalining and Epoxy Priming of the body.
Finally some progress.
Rear:
After looking at the 80 bumper and the 77 bumper, I decided it was not worth swapping on a new cross member. I notices there were 3 spotwelds on each body mount cup of the 80 bumper and decided to remove those. I am going to add plenty oof pictures for any of those who ever go this route. I apologize if it gets excessive.
The 79+ mounts are 2' 3 1/4" center to center.
78 and earlier are 2' 4 3/8"
I drilled out the mounts and cut out the frame with a die grinder and a hole saw to create the opening for the cups. The Hole for the cup to sit in is 1 1/2", but I do not recommend using that size whole saw. As you may know, these bits walk quite a bit. I used a 1" and opened it up with the die grinder. The 79+ cross members are significantly deeper to accomodate the mounting provisions.
Middle.
The Daystar bushings were kind of strange. The top bushing does not fit properly, but we were able to find a bronze gude at lowes and tractor supply that fit around it with the use of a Press. Now the upper and lower Bushing fit nicely together. once the tub is placed on the frame with the other two mounts, I will bolt the mount to the 80 frame wings that I sourced and use the body to actually align where these will be mounted and driilled for bolts.
Front (under cowl):
Thanks to the diagrams from the FSM. It seems as though the mounts are only 10 mm wider than the factory 77 holes. 1195 vs 1185. We drove over to Wimberly 4wd and took some measurements off a few 79-82. I knew that the under pillar mount angles upward on the new frames. This was hard to measure, but it looks to be 1/2-3/4. I plan to space this up with washers for now and make or buy a steel spacer to go in there once the measurements have been made.
The good news is that drilling the holes out went very well. We massaged the holes over 5mm and opened up the holes with the 1" hole saw. It turned out perfect for the new body bushings when mounted up.
Next trip down, I am going to put on the body and get everything welded and bolted up. Then I will remove the body and start the Monstalining and Epoxy Priming of the body.
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- Thread starter
- #140
We test fitted the new body this weekend to secure all of the mounts. I really lucked out. This hot rivet on the frame is in the exact spot where the bolt on the earlier mounts go. I hope this can be a guide to anyone else who ever tries this. As you can see this shot in the dark test fit lines up perfectly. I later tapped every hole and ran 3/8 inch grade 8 bolts
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