Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (1 Viewer)

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You just need a different end on the puller
Agreed. My plate puller works with the crank in place. Is yours too wide Jeremy?

Modifying a puller is a lot easier than an engine conversion.
 
If your liner protrusion measurements are from the block surface pictured in post #1534 then I'd clean the deck and remeasure before proceeding.

*Edit - assuming you're confident the counter bore was/is clean and trouble free before these liners were pressed home...
 
If your liner protrusion measurements are from the block surface pictured in post #1534 then I'd clean the deck and remeasure before proceeding.

*Edit - assuming you're confident the counter bore was/is clean and trouble free before these liners were pressed home...

They where clean when the assembler installed them incorrectly (me). Problem was they where not fully seated and I have had two head gaskets go since that has probably filled the gap in the counter bore with carbon and God knows what other junk. I'm actually surprised I got them that close.
 
I am surprised too that you were able to get them so close. Encouraged actually. Makes me strongly suspect debris under the liner as they were exposed to carbon which gets everywhere. Your tollerances are out such a small amount and I dont think its a coincedence its the cylinders closest to the leaks either. I guess it could either be the cause, or the result. Ill give you a call today as im off at 3ish pm.
 
So today was a day where I was to pull the engine out of the frame. We decided to triple check all our measuments first. In doing so it became very evident that the block is actually warped quite badly. The centre of the block front to back is 3 tho low (.06mm). So that stopped things in there tracks and it was decided look at other options.

If anyone in the PNW would be interested in a compete 4bd1t drive train to swap into there 80 series including rad, intercooler and piping, AC lines, cooling lines ect. Let me know! Just needs a different bottom end. Everything has been rebuilt or replaced on the engine.
 
Bugger. The block could be fixed as long as the crank & cam tunnels were straight. Just have to strip engine deck the block recut counterbores & reset piston heights
 
Bugger. The block could be fixed as long as the crank & cam tunnels were straight. Just have to strip engine deck the block recut counterbores & reset piston heights
Yep who ever buys it should have no problem sorting it out.
 
Don't suppose you ran the straight edge along the top of the liners?
 
Oh bummer, I was subscribed to this thread but I was not getting any notification for the last 10 pages. Sorry to see that you are fighting this still. I think that pulling the engine is a good move in the long run. If not you would always have it in the back of your head that something was wrong. Sucks that you will be starting over, but sometimes things just happen for a reason. Not to mention the learning you have had with this setup will make the next one even better.
 
So what now ? Are you parting the whole thing or doing a running motor swap? Gas ,diesel?
Another diesel swap, no build thread on it though. Just going to do it and slip off into the sunset with a light trail of soot.

The current drive train is available for anyone interested in replacing the block or getting the machining done. Everything else else is new with 7k kms on it.
 
Oh bummer, I was subscribed to this thread but I was not getting any notification for the last 10 pages. Sorry to see that you are fighting this still. I think that pulling the engine is a good move in the long run. If not you would always have it in the back of your head that something was wrong. Sucks that you will be starting over, but sometimes things just happen for a reason. Not to mention the learning you have had with this setup will make the next one even better.
Thanks it's by far been the most frustrating experience in my automotive life.

Starting clean for my sanity at this point.
 
Yeah I can understand frustrating and just wanting to throw your hands up and be over it.

The concern with the 6bt is you're starting with an unknown engine again but there are probably more machine shops familiar with it. Not to mention making the manual fit and work.

I think you should definitely do a build thread. Even continue this one. This is the reality of swaps that people need to see. It's not just pulling the 1FZ fitting some new motor mounts and driving off.

It can be a lot of time, frustration and struggle. And why the guys that are doing the swaps and giving people well sorted, OEM look and fit and turnkey operation are asking significant amounts of money
 
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Yeah, if I do a 6bt it's going to be a lower millage one with history. I may even buy a whole truck and drive it as is for a bit to make sure the engine is solid. I will not be doing another full rebuild top to bottom.

I may do some sort of thread I'm not sure yet. It's going to take me easily 6 months of saving to even start the part collection.
 
I'm with you on the hands up and under the radar thing too but like Scott says it's good for people to see the real world experiences. I just bought a 98 3/4 ton cummins for moving my 5th wheel around and crap. I might be doing a cruiser swap down the road too..
 
I think my experience goes far beyond what is encountered on a normal swap.

I'll post in here when I decide if I'm going to do another swap and will probably start another build thread.

You guys are right with out threads like mine everyone will think swaps are a walk in the park. This one cost 2-5x what I budgeted. I have over 12k onto mine and I will be lucky to get half that back if any.
 

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