Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

[gerg]

Ahh, like a wanna be IDI swirl chamber... Bahh... Better ceramic coat them chambers you know

I like the 1hdt and hz intakes with the swirl ports. Did the isuzu ever come with stuff like that?

Id bet those pistons have reinforced ring lands by the look of them.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Ahh, like a wanna be IDI swirl chamber... Bahh... Better ceramic coat them chambers you know

I like the 1hdt and hz intakes with the swirl ports. Did the isuzu ever come with stuff like that?

Id bet those pistons have reinforced ring lands by the look of them.

I do not know what a swirl port looks like. They do look to promote a rotational entry into the cylinder past the valve though.

I think you are right on the pistons its just had to tell as the steel in cert has a dusting on aluminium on them probably from the casting process. I will take some more pictures this weekend of the bowls/rings and some of the other interesting differences between the two sets of pistons. I'll also be going over the block again and re....re cleaning it. Who threads in oil galley plugs with out cleaning them?

Hope to get it cleaned up tomorrow and start assembling.

 

[gerg]

That is sloppy to put them back in like that.

Swirl ports look like this. Like the ridge thingy Dougal was mentioning, its purpose is to increase cylinder swirl and air fuel mixing.

You could always try and scratch the alum and then the inscert. It should have greater hardness.

Before you start your engine, are you going to pressurize your oil journals? There are some pretty neat simple gadgets to do this via your oil pressure sender. Saves you from the dry initial start up. You could also use it to blow out your oil journals before installing your bearings. Heck, if you want Ill lend you my pre oiler and you can run continuous oil pressure for as long as you want. I have been meaning to install it for the past year or so but have been busy.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

That is sloppy to put them back in like that.

Swirl ports look like this. Like the ridge thingy Dougal was mentioning, its purpose is to increase cylinder swirl and air fuel mixing.

You could always try and scratch the alum and then the inscert. It should have greater hardness.

Before you start your engine, are you going to pressurize your oil journals? There are some pretty neat simple gadgets to do this via your oil pressure sender. Saves you from the dry initial start up. You could also use it to blow out your oil journals before installing your bearings. Heck, if you want Ill lend you my pre oiler and you can run continuous oil pressure for as long as you want. I have been meaning to install it for the past year or so but have been busy.
View attachment 739171

Yes my head has swirl ports.

I will probably try that scratch test.

I just found on my lunch break when I went to drop off the block at the garage that some how the main oil galley has a this rust film on it so I need to pull all the galley plugs anyway and try and clean all that s*** out. I'm really unimpressed with this level of workmanship, I hired a "pro" to clean it and I would have done a better job my self for 1/3rd the cost. I'm torn weather I should send it out to a competent show now to re do it or just do it my self. Really really pissed off now though this is the kind of garbage work that has forced me to do 90% of my own work now (soon to be 100%)

I may borrow that pre oiler and see if I can flush it out once I have run a plastic riffle brush up and down the galley a few hundred times.

Everything now is getting a very very close look over.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Dirty galley plug:

Rusty oil galley:

Good thing I had them put in my cam bearings.......

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Any recommendations how I should proceed with the oil journal? I'm thinking a plastic bristle rifle barrel brush and break clean. Any other ideas?

 

[Dougal]

That's rather average. On startup I simply disconnect the fuel-stop (so it won't start) and crank it until I'm happy the oil has circulated enough.

Seems to work. All my reasons for future rebuilds are never related to initial start-up.

 

[gerg]

I have seen that type of rust before.... dumm dumm dumm.. its flash rust and comes when the parent metal is devoid of its usual oil present in its pores. I see it when ceramic coating after I bake the metal to remove all the oils and leave the metal sit for too long. Seeing as how it rains just about 90% of the time here the humidity in the air is enough to rust it as the metal is quite vulnerable in this clean state. I have seem metal flash literally in front of my eyes.

I have use CLR to clean out my radiator for rust I cant reach and it works extremely well. I was a little weary about leaving it in for very long as my rad is brass, but your cast block would be fine for a few years with this stuff in it. Add a pipe cleaner brush and Id say your in good shape. Blowing out the journals is a good idea seeing all this too.

I dont know what to say about the bearing misalignment. Take it back? That sucks sorry.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Thanks guys, I'm headed out to get some bore brushed tonight and break clean. I have some CLR already.

Should I just try and seat that bearing in deeper you think?

 

[IanB]

If you're not happy with the machine shop's work, take it back. At least give them an opportunity to make it right.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

If you're not happy with the machine shop's work, take it back. At least give them an opportunity to make it right.

Already talked to them and got blank stares so nothing is going to happen there. I'm just glad they are replacing a few parts they broke.

 

[cody c]

name of the shop?

I dont do excellent work myself, not even average work, but when I can out do a proffesionals workmanship or diagnose a problem without replacing a bunch of random parts and make something work when they cant, it really gets under my skin as to how they can charge proffesional rates for sub average work and not even show any accountability, it gets under my skin too.

 

[gerg]

It looks like it has to go clockwise just a tad and in. If you have the tools id go for it. Wouldnt want to give them jokers another chance to screw up.

I know what you mean Cody. My washing machine broke a while ago and the service guys is quoting me labor rates and told me it takes 2 guys 2.5 hrs to put the thing back together and 200 bucks to replace a bearing all the while hes telling me im getting a good deal. So I said "no offence buddy, but Im a freaking nurse and dont take washing machines apart for a living and it only took me an hour to disassemble and diagnose the problem so.... im not interested in your labor, I just want the part please"

If you get a chance, could you post up a pic of your intake swirl ports?

 

[FF LC FREAK]

I'd take that block back and tell them to fix it. Another 2-3 mm (i.e. 1-2 whacks with a hammer) will have those bearings where they need to be. It ain't rocket science... Its amazing what kind of work so called professionals will let leave their shop.

Good luck!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Subscribed

 

[longbow]

Hi Jeremy,

Sucks to see that kind of workmanship out there, but I have to say it seems to be pretty average these days. 3 years ago I made a decision after being ripped off by the Honda dealership for my wife's minivan for $600 that I would make myself completely self sufficient as far as my vehicles go. I sold both my vehicles and bought myself a 60 series and my wife an 80 series and will never have anyone touch my stuff again! There used to be a sense of pride of workmanship in this world, but now it seems to be all about how much money shops can make by any means possible and that is really sad.

I machined a cam bearing installation driver if you want to borrow it, or I would take it back and watch them tap that one in until it was lined up better and never let them near any of your stuff again. Idiots!

On the oiling on startup, I use Royal Purple synthetic assembly lube generously on all bearing surfaces and even on the liners with a thin film. After everything has been assembled, before I install the oil pump drive gear in the side of the block, I have a long bolt that I ground to fit into the splines in the oil pump drive bushing that mounts to the top of the oil pump. I hook that up to my drill and spin the oil pump for a couple of minutes until oil gets pumped all through the system. I have done this on both of my builds and it really helps with the first start up not causing wear on the new bearings.

Hope this helps,

Don

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Thanks all for the comments and suggestions.

This weekend was spent re cleaning the block, I took out all the oil galley plugs and cam bearings. I then ran some nylon bristle rifle barrel brushes through all the oil galleries starting with some break clean. The black and brown crap that came out was shocking, a few sizeable chunks as well. I then used some CLR to remove some of the left on rust and then break clean again to wash it all out. I finished off with a heavy brush down of WD40 to keep any further rust from developing. I put all the plugs in a small cup of diesel to soak for a day and loosen up all the junk left on them. I then gave them a bath in break cleaner and reinstalled with a dab of thread sealer.

The cam bearings where pressed in again correctly this time as well (should have done this myself the first time and not been lazy. The Rods they balanced look good as well as the head. So I am going leave those be. I was really hoping to get the block painted and the bottom end going back together this weekend but that did not happen. I am very glad I took the time to go over the block properly though.

I'm going to be out of town for work for the next 3+ weeks so nothing it really going to happen

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I made a few more parts ordered, sorry this guild is starting to diverge away form a budget build/swap lol. My reasoning is while I'm in there I want it to be done right so not have a "it will do mentality" that could come back to bite me in the ass.

So far I have about 1k into the engine (all engine rebuild parts and machine shop work).

I just ordered OEM Isuzu rubber O rings since the ones that came with my Fel-Pro gasket kit did not give me a warm fuzzy. I also ordered two harmonic seals one for the VC and the other for the front timing cover. There is also a water pump bypass hose and a few other ods and ends. I also ordered a Gates waterpump, it was $62 on Amazon and I was just not getting a warm fuzzy from the old OEM one I took off. I will keep it in case I have an issue with the Gates one.

Next round of parts to order is injector nozzles and have them and the injectors rebuilt.

 

[azcromntic]

Subscribed. This is great info. I started looking at all the info and my decisions went from 3B to 4BT1T to 1HD-T to Cummins and now to 4BD2T (since I have to have same year or newer by state law). I'll have to retrace threads to figure out what to do about the starter issue. Good work on this though!!!

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Subscribed. This is great info. I started looking at all the info and my decisions went from 3B to 4BT1T to 1HD-T to Cummins and now to 4BD2T (since I have to have same year or newer by state law). I'll have to retrace threads to figure out what to do about the starter issue. Good work on this though!!!

Depending on how you do the transmission adaptation you can use the stock Isuzu Starter. I am planing to do this, if there is a clearance issue there are a few alterantives. The starter can be turned and one of the 3 mounting ears trimmed off (this is what I will do if there is a clearance issue). The other option is the get a starter from a 6BD1T since is sits more upright and against the block, like trimming a mounting tab off and tuning with out trimming a tab off. I think 2 mounting tabs will be plenty strong since all they effectively do is to hold the starter to the plate.

Again all of this will be covered when I get into the swap mid September.

You maybe able to get away with swapping a 97 4BD2T EPA Valve cover onto a 4BD1T if you care to risk it. In most cases this engine is not able to swap into passenger cars since they are out of med duty trucks. I am fortunant I live in an area where all they do is a change fuel type from "F" to "D" and an opacity test. Both should not be an issue I have talked to the Licencing branch as well a the people doing the sniffer test. I would highly recommend you do this before spending a penny on it. I actually had the Licencing lady change mine to "D" on my regi to test it then changed it back to "F" for now, no spacial warnings popped up or anything. The AirCare guy said just bring it in and as long as the Opacity is below there limit I'm fine. If I have an issue with Opacity I can lean it out for the test and run Bio worst case. I hope to be driving on the engine for two years before I even get to the point I need to get the opacity test done.