Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #142
Yeah.....i should have had one. I did paint it in an open air area but still felt the effects of it. When i paint again i will ware a respirator.
Sorry to hear about your tming cover. I suspect it was alum? Aluminum hates variations in ph. Washing machine soap is caustic and I had to change a 1/4 inch thick alum bracket inside and it was literally swiss cheese.
Nice paint by the way. What liner protrusion is spec for these engines?
Nice paint by the way. What liner protrusion is spec for these engines?
- Thread starter
- #144
It was actually cast steel, no idea why or how it happened but its unusable. I hope to have the replacement next week some time.
Im not sure off the top of my head on the liner protrusion. Im on the road again for work and do not have the manual handy.
- Thread starter
- #146
No I'm not, for what I plan to run power wise its not worth it. If I was doing pump mods and running more than 35psi I may have. A guy on 4bt swaps ran 50+ psi on a stock motor with a hot rodded pump and compound turbos. It lifted the head with a 60psi guage pegged.
I did get new OEM rod bolts, if there was ARB's for that I may have gone with them.
- Thread starter
- #147
Well my knoulage of the 1HZ is limited, with it being IDI I do not know how that changes the pressures under boost. I cant see 20-25psi stressing the stock head bolts. I guess if you are rebuilding it and are worried it would be worth it. If you rebuild the Alfin style pistons and rods would be a good idea. Everything I have read shows the benefits of the steel insert pistons, personal experience with worn out 2H's confirms it for me as well.
If you want to run 20-24psi on a 1HZ, you'll have more issues than just head bolts.
I did the calcs a while back, but essentially 35psi boost on a 18:1 engine was giving similar compression pressure to 18psi on a 21:1 engine.
It will be cheaper, easier and give a far better result to just find a 1HD-T than build a 1 HZ to handle decent boost.
The lower efficiency of the 1HZ also means a lot less power and torque for the same fuel and boost.
4BD1T's don't need any internal stengthening work unless you're into custom injection pump territory.
- Thread starter
- #149
So looking at having the engine back together in a week or two now (I hope). Anyone run a break in specific oil before? I know on the gas engines I have redone in the past I have just run a non synthetic. I like the sounds of the break in oils with the high zink and other good things for break in.
I know Gerg and Kevinmrowland might be the guys to talk to about this.
Gerg has mentioned in the past (at least for the 3b) that the valve design he runs additives in his oil. Don't know what he exactly did for his rebuild though.
Kevin who rebuilt his 1hz last fall put this info up. I would throw him a PM and ask him specific info.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8085277&postcount=159
Crushers may have some info for you, he is starting his customer's 3b build up shortly here.... Not to mention he has gone through a bunch in the past.
I am also curious about your break-in procedure to seat your rings. I look forward to what your going to post.
Engines Australia might be able to give you some input too.
Gerg has mentioned in the past (at least for the 3b) that the valve design he runs additives in his oil. Don't know what he exactly did for his rebuild though.
Kevin who rebuilt his 1hz last fall put this info up. I would throw him a PM and ask him specific info.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8085277&postcount=159
Crushers may have some info for you, he is starting his customer's 3b build up shortly here.... Not to mention he has gone through a bunch in the past.
I am also curious about your break-in procedure to seat your rings. I look forward to what your going to post.
Engines Australia might be able to give you some input too.
- Thread starter
- #151
Yeah most the break in oils have been geared towards allowing the flat lifter engines time to harden the cam and lifters more than benefit good ring seating. All the performance oil companies seem to be come out with break in oils (Colt,Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil) so am curious. My main concern is getting the rings seated well. The cam and lifters are the originals so there is nothing to worry about there.
For break in procedure I'm not 100% yet on that. I will do a first fire on the engine stand to make sure it runs and I have no big issues. Then once more when I have the engine to tranny adapter done to to bench test the two together. Total run time there will be about 5-10min total. I will have a rad hooked up to prevent hot spots. From there once its in the truck and drivable I'm thinking varying load (no full load boost for first 1000kms try just enough to get the rings pressing on the cylinder walls so they all seat in) then after that change oil and giver her the boot. I think Greg posted a good link to break in on a turbo diesel in my thread somewhere.
For break in procedure I'm not 100% yet on that. I will do a first fire on the engine stand to make sure it runs and I have no big issues. Then once more when I have the engine to tranny adapter done to to bench test the two together. Total run time there will be about 5-10min total. I will have a rad hooked up to prevent hot spots. From there once its in the truck and drivable I'm thinking varying load (no full load boost for first 1000kms try just enough to get the rings pressing on the cylinder walls so they all seat in) then after that change oil and giver her the boot. I think Greg posted a good link to break in on a turbo diesel in my thread somewhere.
- Thread starter
- #152
In other news, more parts ordered. I ordered a MHI 19T compressor wheel and cover from Authentic boost and an OEM supper back rebuild kit. I felt ok going after market for the cover and wheel as they seem to be holding up in all the looking I did. The rebuild kit I wanted a genuine MHI kit.
Should be here next week, I'll then strip down my turbo for machining, balancing and rebuild. I'm a bit nervous putting a freshly rebuilt turbo on a fresh engine with all the crap that is in the oil on a fresh engine but well see.
Should be here next week, I'll then strip down my turbo for machining, balancing and rebuild. I'm a bit nervous putting a freshly rebuilt turbo on a fresh engine with all the crap that is in the oil on a fresh engine but well see.
- Thread starter
- #154
Yeah we use to run tiny pre turbo filters on our cars with the BB turbos. I have seen a few of those fail shortly after an engine rebuild. I just do not want to have go through this again if I can help it lol.
Talked to my friend at ADP and said no problem machining the CHRA for the larger Compressor and high speed balance the new compressor to turbine.
Thanks.
The break in pretty much was no ideling and vary load and change oil lots for the 1st k, then load the s***e out of it and get the water temp up high. It did caution specifically ot to run high egts as it can glaze your cylinder and prevent proper break in. I dont know what a safe egt would be, but I would guess lower then 1000F for sure. You could just up your boost and pull a utility trailer up the Coq for a few hours. Its pretty much the only place locally I know of where you can stress a motor out consistantly for long periods of time. Your right not to idle it for long, but you alreay know lots about this stuff. Its nice that you dont have to break in a cam at the same time as cam break in and engine break in contradict each other. Best to do them separately.
If you want a pre turbo filter I can lend you my bypass oil filter. Its a frantz. It runs a restrictor, but you can remove it and runing normal turbo oil volume would be fine. Would be good to have something to get all the smaller, finer shavings during the first few hundred Ks of break in too as your stock filter only catches the catistrophic damaging pieces. I think stock filter only catches 40 micron sized stuff on the first pass which is pretty big. My frantz can do less than 5mics first pass.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #157
Thank's greg, kind of what I had remembered. I will probably spend a day running the Coq to seat it all in and vet the transmission. Hope I do not have a break down a friend just spend $500 to get towed off the cut to Hope. Do not have a trailer or intend to tow one so not sure its needed?
I actually have a few pre turbo filters left from my race car days, thanks for the offer. I'll let you know if I need to borrow it.
I actually have a few pre turbo filters left from my race car days, thanks for the offer. I'll let you know if I need to borrow it.
I only said utility trailer as it will get you partially loaded while on the Hwy. Then when you pull the hills, you dont need to speed as fast to get the results you want. If you want you can drag my beastie trailer as its just over a thousand pounds empty. Heck you could put a yard or two of pea gravel in it if you want more weight. I need to pick up some more anyhow for my kids play area. Cource id pay for the gravel
I'd avoid the 5-10min idling if you can. Minimise it if you can't.
My proceedure has always been:
Fire it up, check for oil light to go out, burp cooling system and make sure nothing is leaking.
Then get in, drive it hard and get it on boost to get the rings seated. Low rpm (i.e. not the rev limit) and high load is your friend for seating rings. Boost is a good thing.
Once it's up to temp, bring it back in, let it cool and check all fluid levels.
Don't baby it.
- Thread starter
- #160
I cant totally avoid it, i want to make sure i have the engine working again before i take my primary vehicle off the road for the swap. I also need to make sure there are no issues with my trans/engine interface.
Ill take all this info in and see how it goes come time to get the swap done and truck on road.